Willoughby 11/30

Discussion in 'Vermont' started by Rockytop, Nov 30, 2017.


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  1. Rockytop

    Rockytop Well-Known Member Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    Another morning update from The Lake.
    Sunny days and thaws have been hitting whatever forms overnight but it hasn't completely wrecked the ice. It's actually helped Promenade, which still looks serious and terrifying at this point.
    Renormalization, Zephyr, and Tablets Right are all climbable, likely with reasonable protection on the steeper sections this morning but stuff started falling and making it unsafe as soon as the sun hit it. Hard to say what's going to stick around but I'd bet those three routes being less exposed to sun will stay doable for some climbers on the weekend. Again, nighttime temps will determine what stays in.
    If you're really motivated, it would be possible to rap into the top of some routes and just climb the top pitch of steep ice that way. lastgent.JPG

    Last Gentleman amphitheater


    20 Below Zero Gully - thin with water running under the start.

    Zephyr - Pretty good ice. Would take stubbies anyhow. Thinner in a couple short low-angle spots up higher.
    neiceadmin likes this.
  2. Rockytop

    Rockytop Well-Known Member Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    Update for the weekend - Things took a hit from over 24 hours of above freezing temps. Some ice stuck around but appears (from the road) to be delaminated. I'd guess the rightmost Tablets could be climbable in the morning with temps dropping to 20F overnight. Also, Woober Goober Gully, WI3+/4, across the lake looks doable. That's reached by parking at the south end of Lake Willoughby and taking a trail around the southern shoreline of the lake and then cutting uphill before you reach the talus slope.
  3. Nicole_MeridieM

    Nicole_MeridieM New Member

    Any updates on Zephyr or Tablets? Heading in for the weekend, looks like temps dropping and hoping for thicker conditions... any local info would be rad. Thanks!
  4. Rockytop

    Rockytop Well-Known Member Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    Nicole, As of yesterday, 12/6, after the warm rainy spell, 90 percent of the ice was gone at Willoughby and what was there was totally detached. Essentially we're starting over. The good news is, there's still plenty of water flowing and temps should stay below freezing for a while now. Hopefully by Saturday morning, Tablets Right should at least be climbable. I'll be going up to check conditions early Friday morning and will post them as soon as I can.
  5. Nicole_MeridieM

    Nicole_MeridieM New Member

    Omg nooooo... ok well hopefully there’s something. I’ve never been there before, are there anchors/tree slings or do I need to build something? Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
  6. Rockytop

    Rockytop Well-Known Member Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    Actually Nicole, I was slightly wrong earlier. I made it up there late this afternoon for a training hike after work and there was ice I couldn't see very well from the road! It wasn't safe to climb yet but I'd bet by Saturday morning, the Tablets Right at least should be doable and maybe Zephyr too. Fingers crossed for 20 Below and Crazy Diamond which have plenty of water flow. The big wall section was sadly, too dry now.
    With the Tablets at least, you can belay and rappel from trees along the right side. As always, you should make your own decisions based on experience.


    Right side of the Tablets. 12/7. Ice is detached, self-supporting and unsafe at the moment but in a couple days could be doable.
    Nicole_MeridieM likes this.
  7. Nicole_MeridieM

    Nicole_MeridieM New Member

    Awesome!!! So there’s a decent chance... praying for that temp drop. Will be there Saturday morning with 2 others if you or anyone else is interested in joining seeing as we will be a part of 3. :)
  8. Rockytop

    Rockytop Well-Known Member Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    Yes, I'll be up there in the morning! Hard to tell how much ice will form overnight. Here's hoping the temps drop into the teens tonight!
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2017
    Nicole_MeridieM likes this.
  9. Nicole_MeridieM

    Nicole_MeridieM New Member

    Awesome! Shoot me an email at [email protected]

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