Where to climb in Acadia? General conditions for Camden and Acadia?

Discussion in 'Maine' started by Gary Scavette, Feb 12, 2017.

  1. Gary Scavette

    Gary Scavette Member

    Making the trip on 2/17 and hoping to climb in Acadia and Camden. I am familiar with Camden climbs but have never Ice climbed in Acadia. Does anyone have reports on the conditions for either/both places this year? Also, I cannot find resources for ice climbs in Acadia. Is there a guidebook that includes routes? Any support would be most appreciated.
  2. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Hi Gary- Acadia is a little more reliable than Camden, but not much. Your best bet is along east face of Penobscot Mtn overlooking Jordan Pond. Climbing is about 1 km north of the Tea House, above a cove in the west shore of the pond. From the Tea House, you can either walk along the pond or the carriage road. I think they can also be approached shorter from the park loop road directly across from the routes, There are 2 routes: a fairly reliable 2 pitch grade 3, ascending a broken face with plenty of trees. To its left, ascending the highest part of the mountainside is a less reliable, 3-4 pitch, grade 4(-), but can be pretty thin down low. This is a treat when its in. Rap either route from trees. if you end up looking for ice and are near Camden, I had an OK time poking around what Ben Townsend's guide calls the "Middle Cliffs" on Megunticook. Several ~ 80-100ft moderate pitches up there. You probably need snowshoes right now. There are a couple small areas near the Colby College nordic ski area (Quarry Rd) that are very close to the road. They are in listed Mountain Project under Devils' Chair. -Dan
  3. Gary Scavette

    Gary Scavette Member

    Thank you for the information. I will be up there climbing Friday through Sunday. Of course....the snowshoes are packed! I am no stranger to the Maine winters as I actually lived there most of my life. My residence was in Northport, only a hop skip and jump from Barrett' s Cove (Camden) and not too far from Acadia. I rock climbed in both of these areas in the past but never ice climbed.

    I picked up Ben's guide on Camden when I went up to climb Katahdin last January. A good friend and I went in to have a look at the Cataracts which were not in at that time. I look forward to seeing it now that there is some ice. I really had no idea of where to start at Acadia so I appreciate the information.
  4. Gary Scavette

    Gary Scavette Member

    Maine report:
    Overall- deep snow everywhere that obscured the low angle ice. There were probably many climbs that were "in" but covered with deep snow. Only the most vertical climbs were showing.
    Camden- Spent time at the left Cataract. Everdrip was good. Never drip was out. By Sunday afternoon (very warm) I would chance to say that Everdrip was gone.
    Acadia- Dorr mountain. Warmed up on a short smear and then did a nice mixed pitch of WI3+4 ice. I have no idea if the name of what I did. Again, there were probably many routes that I missed because they were covered in snow. Found some ice in the area of otter cliffs with the help of a local guide, Noah Kleiner. This was pretty good. I ventured over to Jordan pond and saw, what appeared to be, some routes on the mountain across from the parking lot. The lower pitches looked like they were out but the upper pitch/s looked good from a distance. It was late in the day and I didn't get to climb these.
    Overall, with the warmth of Saturday and Sunday, things were really deteriorating. Maine needs some sustained cold weather!
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2017
    thedug likes this.
  5. ccaissie

    ccaissie Member

    Sounds like you hit the high points. Camden, you know, can be really good early, then at the first January thaw, falls off. I was on fat Heathrow during the "Bomb Cyclone" , saw Ryan making that FA that day. 2 weeks later...a mess.

    Haven't done ice in Acadia. Was just at the S. Wall, gawking, without a partner.

    Give a holler if you find early stuff this season. Even the Colby quarry is good for warmups.

Share This Page