New places to play in the Keene area

Discussion in 'New York - North' started by Tom DuBois, Mar 10, 2020.

  1. Tom DuBois

    Tom DuBois Well-Known Member

    For next season, here are some new places to play in the Keene area, when other areas are crowded. All this stuff is hidden; none of it can be seen from the road. Routes in these areas were climbed in the past couple years. PM me if you are interested in specific route information.

    Icy Brook Cliff:

    Located here:

    Accessed via the Old Dix trail, 30 minute approach.

    The cliff is 400’ wide, and severely overhanging, about 50’ high at its highest point. There is potential for short, very hard routes here. Four routes have been climbed here; there is potential for many more depending on the seasonal conditions.

    Holcomb Mountain Ice Cliff
    Located here:

    Accessed via the logging road across from Split Rock Falls, 35 minute approach. Follow the property line to stay on state land.

    The cliff is about 50’ high, and about 200 feet wide, and generally less than vertical, with a few steeper spots. In season, the entire cliff is swathed in ice, so there are not really any defined separate routes. Most of the good sections have been climbed. This cliff would be a good location for an instructional clinic.

    Above Wilmington Cobble
    Located here:

    Accessed via the new “Wilmington Cobble” hiking trail, 45 minute approach.

    This is a very long cliff line. The landmark is a large steep rock buttress right of the center, with ice on either side. Eight routes have been climbed here (two right of the buttress, six left). There is potential for a few more at the left end of the cliff.

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