Ice climbing anchor

Discussion in 'General Discussions' started by corbsmtn, Oct 20, 2020.

  1. corbsmtn

    corbsmtn Member

    Want to get opinions on whether or not you equalize your ice screw anchors. It seems to me that (just like with rock anchors) when anchor screws are placed staggered horizontally and vertically as recommended to avoid having a fracture affect both screws, the shorter leg of the anchor would take more of the load. Does anyone use equalizing anchor setups to help distribute the load "more" equally between the screws.
    I look forward to your response.

    neiceadmin likes this.
  2. Mike R

    Mike R Well-Known Member

    I will "equalize" in the sense that the slings/runner/rope/whatever is loading both screws. But I don't try to cheat the load onto the higher screw, nor do I use a quad or any other self-adjusting load distribution rig. I understand that ice screws pushed to failure do not instantaneously pop out. The bend, they creep. And in doing so the load will proportionately shift onto the other screw.
    neiceadmin likes this.

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