Any Dacks reports?

Discussion in 'New York - North' started by corbsmtn, Jan 11, 2018.

  1. corbsmtn

    corbsmtn Member

    Anybody have any idea what the conditions are like? Also, speculation of what this weekend will offer.


  2. pappy

    pappy Member

    Although at the moment it's blank, so I think they are updating it. We're getting hit by a Jan. thaw with rain and temps up to 50F and above freezing tonight which definitely sucks. I mean, we could use a little bit of thaw as the super cold temps we've had locked up water flow and stuff that should be fat isn't, but this is ridiculous. It is supposed to get cold again by tomorrow night and then below zero by Sat. night, How all of this plays out is anyone's guess. Stuff that was fat like NSOP, Positive Reinforcement, Chouinard's, etc. should survive and maybe even thrive. The other stuff, who knows. It could be slaughtered or through some weird combination of cold ground and elvish magic it could be just what we needed. After 35 years of doing this stuff I just throw up my hands and admit I have no idea how it works.

    Anyway, I'm bailing out of the cottage in Keene and heading back to my secret area in VT to avoid Mountainfest. I really don't get why we try to encourage more people to do this--there are too many now. It's really cold, highly uncomfortable to hypothermic, much frost bite, and really dangerous. You'll probably all die. Better to hang out at the gym in the winter. Really.
    nick and Goatguy like this.
  3. Niki

    Niki New Member

    Here's my report: go skiing.

    All the waterfalls are completely gone (roaring brook, cascade), chapel pond is not frozen, water is pouring down Chounaird's, Northface of Pitchoff is falling down.

    Pitchoff quarry had a bit of ice that looked climbable but there was a lot water running down all the ice.
  4. Bill Kirby

    Bill Kirby Active Member

    Things are looking poopy.. If you’re up here make the best of it. If you’re still in the city, stay there. It’s going to snow and get super cold Saturday and Sunday may be enough time for things to get back in shape.
  5. corbsmtn

    corbsmtn Member

    Thanks for the reports. Postponed trip for two week, looks like it was a good decision. Watching football and eating pasta instead.
  6. Tom DuBois

    Tom DuBois Well-Known Member

    Probably a good call. Drove through Cascade Pass today. Lots of climbers out of course, due to Mountainfest. Looked like good climbing on Right, Left, Sister's Right, and some of the practice climbs. Quarry was very thin, just a few candlesticks.

    The bigger problem was the parking and plowing situation. With the snow coming in the morning today, the pullouts were not plowed when everyone got there to park, so there were lots of cars wallowing and parked at crazy angles. Also, the road was flooded. Some time during the afternoon, the plows came back through to clear about 4" of slush off the road. At least a couple cars in the pullouts got the 4" thick refrozen slush blasted all over them. It was not a great place to have a car today.
  7. Marco Chabot

    Marco Chabot Member

    Chapel pond Saturday morning: CIT is gone, chouinard looks thin at the base. Power play is just littles icicles.

    We decided to do low angle stuff: Chapel pond slab is gone at the base and thin in middle with a lot of pressurized water under the ice. I did a full 50 meters pitch with a single DMM Terrier as a protection.

    Sunday conditions of everything will be much better. Most of the routes should be in.

    Attached Files:

  8. pappy

    pappy Member

    On the flip side, unusual conditions produce unusual results. No point in going to VT for ice, when I left work in St. Albans at 5:00 Fri. it was freaking 60F and raining. Temps plunged, and less than 24 hr. later summitted Colden in zero temps and 15-20 mph breeze. Below zero Sat. night. Sun. afternoon wander down to Chapel, which looks a little bleak for PP, BB, etc. But up high in the sun the Upper Washbowl looks like nothing I had seen before, not that I've been around here long. Vertical ice top to bottom above the Weissner ramp and to the left. A long outrageous looking line farther left in that broken area between UW and Spider. I go farther down the road to check out Cheese and Crackers, which looks a little thin but the King Wall is covered with ice. Maybe not all the way to the bottom (that I could tell) but most of the way and end to end. I'm guessing that some mix masters could do something interesting.
    I was amazed that with the Fest there weren't some bad asses out there, but near as could tell, not much. Pickup truck parked for King was about it. I gotta work today or would have been scrounging for someone to get in trouble with. This is all south facing stuff and won't last, but it was -10F when I went through Keene this AM so it's good for today and a little while yet. Someone should give it a shot.
  9. Bill Kirby

    Bill Kirby Active Member

    There was definitely stuff to climb this weekend. The holiday crowds combined with MountainFest made for either bushwhacking through the woods or awaking up at 6:30am. We opted for the bushwhack on Saturday, and even then people. We shared and played nice, good times! Sunday we took second shift.

    This week should be amazing... until it warms up again and rains Monday
  10. Murphy

    Murphy Member

    anyone know what the current conditions are like in the Daks? I'm heading up this weekend and wanted to see if anything in particular is out.
  11. Poke O is in great shape!
    Waterfall wall in fat,
    Goats Foot in fat
    PT just huge!
    Neurosis all good with both finishes fat.
    Discord's first pitch is in good as well as the second
    Mid life is in but the first pitch is not there...
  12. Tavis

    Tavis New Member

    Anyone have any news of Gothics? It's slowly getting to be that time of year....
  13. Mike R

    Mike R Well-Known Member

    I'm hearing that NF of Gothics is in climbable, interesting, variable condition.
  14. Geo

    Geo New Member

    We climbed Cascade waterfall on Saturday (2/10) in balmy conditions. Temps were around 32 and the falling snow melted on contact with trees and cars. The waterfall was less than stellar with thin or punky ice in places. The melt of the previous week had taken its toll. We could get screws in after looking for good ice. First 200 feet to crest was OK, next section to second bump was full of new snow, above second bump was open water. We bailed at this point rather than going on. Green Gully was fat and is what we should have done. Many climbs on Pitchoff, visible from the road, looked fat and had climbers on them. There was some rain in Saranac Lake on Sunday so I don't know how the ice has fared since then.

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