February 5-7 2010Clinics, Demos, Multimedia Show, Guest Athletes & Guides, 2nd Face Off Comp, Climbers Party, and Amateur Photo Contest!
Steve House is coming into town and will be giving a killer show. Steve is currently supporting the release of his first book Beyond the Mountain.
Read more about the Ice Fest here: ICE FEST BLOG . Enter the Ice Fest Photo Contest and More Here..
The 4th annual Smuggs Ice Bash, the local ice climbing festival at the foot of Smugglers Notch VT. Is This Weekend January 29-31, 2010. More…
Bayard Russell & Matt McCormick were crushing it in the “Dacks” during Mountainfest establishing “The Bossman” M9
The 14th annual Adirondack International Mountainfest was held on January 15-17, 2010. This year’s event featured a slide show by blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer and world-class alpinist Steve House. See the Report..
Beyond the Mountain by Steve House describes what it takes to be one of the world’s best high-altitude mountain climbers. More…
After four years of lobbying and negotiations the Climbers Access Society of Alberta (CASA) won a seasonal permit from the Alberta Government for access into the North Ghost. More…
If you could change the Nomic, what would do? That’s easy; add a hammer and a spike. Well Petzl is working on this and the proto types are here. More…
Based on a true story, NORTH FACE is a gripping adventure drama about a competition to climb the most dangerous rock face in the Alps. More…
Big news? Alpinist magazine has made Jeffersonville its new home and is helping with sponsorship of the Ice Bash this year.
# Socialize at the Brewski on Friday the 29th, 6pm
# Demos, clinics & slide show on Saturday the 30th
# Demos and clinics on Sunday the 31st
Matt McCormick will present “Northern Revival” at the Brewski, Saturday Jan 30th – 6:00pm, a multi-media look at the next generation of Vermont climbs and climbers, including ice, rock, and mixed – all local. Free, AND, it coincides with the Ice Bash raffle, arguably the most booty filled, cheapest raffle in the festival circuit (proceeds go directly to Crag-VT, our local Access Fund partner – Bolton Quarry, Upper West Bolton, etc.) – Bert Severin
For more details see the links below
Source: Smuggsicebash.com / NEice.com/forum
Alberta Canada / January 18, 2010
After four years of lobbying and negotiations the Climbers Access Society of Alberta (CASA) won a seasonal permit from the Alberta Government for access into the North Ghost.
There are two elements to the access permit.
First, the permit grants access to climbers right now. As of Jan 15, climbers have interim access to the staging area in front of The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (GBU). Please note that for a short time we won’t have vehicle access to cross the river to the Valley of the Birds. The second part of the permit is that CASA has been given permission to build a track from GBU to the Malamute Valley, including a bridge and staging areas. Once the construction work is done climbers will be able to drive across the river in front of GBU to access Valley of the Birds and other climbs to the south.
CASA is now at work arranging the construction of the track. We will announce the dates for construction soon, because it will impede access for that weekend. Similarly, once the construction is completed, we’ll announce the details of access including UTM coordinates of the staging areas and a GPS track log of the route.
In the meantime, we ask climbers to respect the current access restrictions (i.e. do not drive further than GBU). The permit and our continued access is conditional on our communities’ compliance, and it is expected that Alberta’s Sustainable Resource Development will be monitoring the work we are doing in the Ghost.
The seasonal access is valid until March 31, 2010. After that date the closure point will revert back to Crossing 38.
If you have any questions feel free to contact CASA directly at: chair@climbersaccess.ab.ca.
Source: Climbersaccess.ab.ca
If you could change the Nomic, what would do? That’s easy; add a hammer and a spike. Well Petzl is working on this and the proto types are here.
See photos at Escalade Quebec / Forum
“The tools we are seeing at the show now and out climbing (Ueli Steck and the Petzl web page) are still prototypes. Close but still protos. I found it interesting the even Steck hadn’t seen or used the new tools till just last week.” – Dane
“All the new tools are now taking the older style Nomic picks. But now they are cut to take hammer and adze (the coldthistle hammer and adze are lighter fwiw). All the picks are now T rated as well and with a 3 year guarantee!” – Dane
“Check them out and start drooling” – pcooke
“The thing that attracts me the most, is the Nomic with the hammer…Now you have to carry a third tool for hammering stuff when you climb with those….if they manage to put a spike as well, those tools will see more usage on the mountains…” – farmax
The forum threads:
https://www.neice.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=51302#Post51302
Jason Hurwitz leads the Advocate in the Black Chasm, Catskills, NYSee more Catskills action on his web site – Big Foot Mountain Guides
Josh Hurst about to fire the FA of “Strippers” Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch NH. – Bayard Russell
-Bayard Russell
The route is between Cocaine and the Wrath of the Valkyrie.
Read more at Cathedral Mountain Guides
Source: Bayard Russell
Colorado ice climber falls 100 feet Tuesday (1/12/10) when the Fang ice formation in East Vail Colorado unexpectedly sheared and fell , with the lead climber on the route.
This year’s event will kick off with a slide show by blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer on Friday night. Saturday’s speaker will be world-class alpinist Steve House, and Sunday’s entertainment is Bill Pelkey. Guest athletes Steve House and Jim Shimberg will join local guides Chuck Boyd, Emilie Drinkwater, Jeremy Haas, Carl Heilman, Matt Horner, Chad Kennedy, Colin Loher, Don Mellor and Jim Pitarresi to lead instructional clinics on ice climbing, mountaineering, snowshoeing and avalanche awareness on Saturday and Sunday.
See the Mountaineers web site for more information
Peter Doucette following the ice pitch. The first pitch climbs overhanging rock from the right. The icicle was in unusually fat condition 1/6/10
1/6/10 – Climbing guide Bayard Russell has succeeded on the first ascent of a stunning mixed climb on the Painted Wall, Kancamagus Highway NH. This climb has seen numerous attempts over the last few years but this week every thing came together for Bayard.
Read the full story on Bayard’s blog – Cathedral Style
Source: Bayard Russell
Photos by Bayard Russell & Kevin Mahoney
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