A Final Tribute to Guy Lacelle
1955-2009
I was at a friends house when I got the news. Guy Lacelle has been killed in an avalanche. It hit home hard. I will remember that day forever…..
A Final Tribute
Mt. Katahdin Maine
The Power of Light
A Trip Report
December 16-21 2009
It wasn’t long after Doug caught wind of the rule changes in Baxter State Park that I got a phone call from him. His question was a no brainier……. Read the Full Report
Thin But In!
Nicolas Leduc leads up the second pitch on the Adirondack classic Multiplication Gully, Sunday, Dec. 21, 2009.(Photo by Cheezecrotte)
Despite the cold temperatures and wind chills, people are getting out and ticking off the classics. “Thin but in” is what we’re hearing for conditions on many routes but still very climbable for those solid at the given grades. In many cases, water is still flowing on the surface offering a break from the cement-like brittle conditions that often accompany the sub-zero temperature swings.
Photos from two super classics of the Northeast:
Called On Account of Rains, WI5+, Willoughby,VT
Positive Thinking, WI5, Adirondacks, NY
-NEIce
The Ice Season is Off and Running!
Eugene Kwan follows on Hassig’s Direct variation of The Black Dike on Cannon Cliff. (Photo by Kevin Mahoney, IFMGA/UIAGM Guide, Mahoney Alpine Adventures)
Finally, colder temperatures have arrived, albeit a bit colder than most of us would have liked to start with but ice has formed all over the Northeast now. Many of the classic lines are in and the season is solidly underway! Even the often elusive “Called on Account of Rains”, WI5+, at Lake Willoughby has formed and been climbed already!
Millen Machine and Alfonzo are up in Baxter State Park this week testing themselves and the new climbing regulations. We’re looking forward to a fantastic trip report and great photos as always from the duo!
Enjoy, send hard, be safe and stay warm!
Hyalite Avalanche Fatality-10 December 2009
Doug Chabot of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center investigates the avalanche that killed Guy Lacelle. Guy was in a steep gully on non-technical terrain above the climb Silken Falls (120m…
Guy Lacelle Killed By Avalanche
Guy Lacelle at Festiglace 2005 in Pont Rouge, Quebec. (NEIce.com file photo/Alden Pellett)
Bozeman, MT – World-renowned ice climber Guy Lacelle has died from injuries received when a small avalanche, triggered by a party above him, swept him over an ice climb in Hyalite Canyon where he was participating in the Bozeman Ice Festival. The loss of Lacelle is felt by many throughout the sport of ice climbing.
Lacelle attended Festiglace at Pont Rouge, Quebec, here in the Northeast for a number of years where he taught more than one eastern climber in the sport and inspired many with his solid climbing in competitions and confident free-solos. He will be sorely missed by all of us at NEice.
For more on the accident: Bozeman Daily Chronicle
Petzl Tribute to Guy Lacelle:Adieu Guy
Avalanche Investigation – Doug Chabot of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center investigates the avalanche that killed Guy Lacelle. Guy was in a steep gully on non-technical terrain above the climb Silken Falls (120m…
Guy Lacelle climbing during the competition at Festiglace in Pont Rouge, 2005.(NEIce file photo/Alden Pellett)
The Black Dike, Finally!
Canon Cliff, Franconia Notch, NH
December 08, 2009
Erik Eisele leading the 2nd pitch of the Black Dike in lean conditions – December 8th, 2009.
Photo by RAS
In normal years the Black Dike usually is fat by now. The first Ascents usually happen in the first week of November. Jim Shimburg has climbed it in early October. This is as late a start as I can remember….Doug
Huge Transition Underway
Real Winter Pattern Coming!
All indications point to Major Cold and very stormy weather over the next 15 days
Ted Hammond enjoying the start of this weather change. Odell’s Gully – Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH 12/06/09
Photo by Alfonzo
All long term and short term indicators (NAO, EPO, EL Nino etc…) have been pointing to cold and stormy (For weeks). Well that is now coming to full realization for Dec to Jan. The last two storms were the beginning of the pattern change. We have one last one (Dec 7/8) to complete the transition and lock the NE into below to well below average temps and a very active storm track as well. 
What Ice if any survives this weeks storm should rapidly start building by the end of this week into the weekend. (Even in the southern sections to some extent) Next week should only continue to reinforce the ice building.
Snow Cover:
Check out the massive and rapid snow cover buildup over the US in just over the last 6 days ( Today – December 1). This is why the cold push will be so much stronger over the next 10 days, as the fresh snowpack will help in keeping the arctic air from moderating.
Source: Smike – NEice Weather Outlook
Photos by Rockytop
Blind Fate and Blue Ice Buldge Smugglers Notch VT 12/07/09
Winter is Here!
Sharpen your tools and get ready
Lowe’s path on the way to Mt. Adams 11/29/09
Photo: Doug Millen
After a good start in mid October the ice conditions have gone continually down hill. But over Thanksgiving the higher elevations got hammered with snow. 
Gray knob received almost 3 feet, in less than 24 hours and the cold weather has moved in. Mount Washington has been well below freezing since the front passed and the extended forecast is for continued cold weather. 6-10 day temperature forecast. …..Doug
“General mountain travel will be challenging with new snow over rocks and ice. The ice climbing season is very young so expect thin ice conditions that will make rock gear more appealing than ice screws. If Wednesday night’s precipitation event does result in an inch of rain as the valley forecast’s state the thin ice will likely be wiped out again” more at …..USFS Avalanche Bulletin
Christopher Joosen, Snow Ranger
USDA Forest Service
Photos: King Ravine Mt. Adams NH / Alfonzo
Ouray mixed competition 2009
By Alden Pellett
North East Ice
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