Tri-Scam to Quartz Crack to Post Nasal Drip

Great Climbing at the 10th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash

Smuggs-Climb-from-the-top

Photo by Tim Farr

Photos From Solo

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Photos: Matt McCormick on the 4th pitch of a rock route called “Quartz Crack”, a bit of a classic in Smuggs. Matt linked it up with what he and Peter Doucette climbed a couple years back, “Post Nasal Drip” – which climbs a small portion of rock up and left from the ice route “The Snotcicle”. Matt and Bayard then climbed the icy corner up, left and around to the top in the photos. The rock route goes up and right to exit.

Bayard Russel of Cathedral Mountains Guides (in green) is at the bolted anchor on the top of P3 of “Quartz Crack”, they got there by climbing the ice route “Tri-scam”.

Photos by Solo, flown by Doug Millen

~ Tim Farr

Membership / Staff Manager
Smuggs Ice Bash Coordinator
Petra Cliffs Instructor & Guide
AMGA Certified SPI, Apprentice Rock & Ice Guide
NY State Lic. Rock and Ice Guide
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105 Briggs St.
Burlington VT 05401
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AMGA Steep Ice Tips YouTube

AMGA – Steep Ice Tips

Peter has ticked off many new tricky ice and mixed climbs in the Northeast over his career. He has a good sense of where and when things are happening and the expertise to climb them.

To find out what clinics Peter will be teaching at the 2016 Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest, go to The MWV Ice Fest Blog. They have an incredible offering of Instructional Courses for all levels of experience, and a list of guides that just can’t be beat, in the northeast.

Related Stories on Peter:

 

Harvard Cabin Report 1-21-16

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January 21, 2016

Harvard Cabin Mountaineers,

Howdy, y’all! I trust everyone is enjoying the political climate developing in the lead-up to the 2016 US Presidential Election. After seven years of mildly entertaining (boring, maybe even depressing) politics in the good ol’ US-of-A, we’ve returned once again to another unforeseen period of American political excellence! Could we have ever imagined another leading political figure as entertaining as the former “Decider-in-Chief”? More so, you say? Not in a lifetime would I have thunk it possible. Talk about a trump card! You can’t make this stuff up!

SnowmanGood news! If it is not the political climate you’re yearning for, don’t worry, New Hampshire is still the place for you. Finally, it seems winter has settled in for the season. Now that is one party we can all get behind! Many of you should know by now but in case it’s not obvious, I really enjoy politicking so long as we are able to enjoy the free, open, and peaceful exchange of ideas. That said, this go-around I think it possible for anyone, anything, or any idea to gain a podium spot at the next Republican Presidential Debate and so I am encouraging you, my fellow North Americans -Citizens, Immigrants, Illegals, and other variously labeled Earthlings – Vote for Winter 2016, It’s gonna be HUUUGE!

Snow and Ice Conditions

Huntington Ravine ICE is IN!

We’ll folks, we are inching little by little towards full-on winter. Right now, we have a solid 15 inches (40 cm) of settled snow pack from Pinkham Notch all the way to the ravines. Thanks to what has been a relatively snowy and WINDY week, the Tuckerman Ravine Trail and Fire Road are both snow covered. After a busy MLK Jr weekend, trails are packed out and fast moving. Some light traction or skis and skins will make for a speedy approach to the cabin.

Temperatures over the last several days have ranged from -10 to +15 Degrees F (-23 to +10 Degree C) preserving snow and encouraging the continued growth of climable water ice. The explosive growth of frozen waterfall ice can be largely attributed to what is known as the Arctic Oscillation Index finally entering a negative phase. In simple terms, high pressure over-took the arctic zone, pushing very welcomed cold air into the middle latitudes. The opposite was true for all of December. Low pressure dominated the polar region, allowing for a strong and consistent east-west jet stream to dam-up arctic cold air.

Thanks to this change in AO, the dam was finally breached between January 10 & 11, 2016. The metaphor is appropriate given the 1.4 inches (3.5cm) of rain that fell on the summit of Mount Washington on January 10. The tropic-like monsoon brought thigh-deep water to some parts of the fire road and the Cutler River seemed to become a tributary of the Tuckerman Ravine Trail. The latest gully-washer of the season was followed immediately by the sudden rush of arctic air that brought the first substantial winter weather of the season. It’s been cold ever since!

Weather
If you are interested, you can read more about Arctic Oscillation HERE. I’d also like to take the time to admit that I learned only this week of the existence of a National Snow & Ice Data Center. Where the hell have I been?

Travel in Huntington Ravine

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Huntington Ravine – January 20, 2016 – Click to Enlarge

While the veil of winter is a welcomed sight across the Presidential Range, it should come as no surprise that we are still dealing with quite a snow deficit here in the Northeast. Thankfully, last weeks’ snowfall has made most travel on the mountain feel like it should given the time of year. Unfortunately, the lack of snow thus far has kept travel through the lower portions of Huntington Ravine very summer like. You can expect plenty of boulder-hopping, alder-cursing, and longer then usual approach times into your favorite gully. This weeks winds have been the major culprit. Velocities peaked on Tuesday night reaching 127 MPH (~205 KPH). With recent snowfall I would have expected improving travel conditions in lower portions of Huntington Ravine (The Fan), but as winds raged most of the snow was transported to treeline or below. The upside being, once you make it to your intended climb, the ice is what you would expect it to be for late January! So, come and get it, there is plenty for everyone!

Avalanche Conditions

5-Scale Avalanche Forecasting has begun for the 2015-16 Season.

AvalancheLadies and Gentlemen, Skiers, Climbers, and Mountaineers – WE HAVE AN AVALANCHE SEASON! On Monday, January 18th the first 5-Scale Avalanche Forecast was issued for Tuckerman Ravine. Snow safety concerns in Huntington Ravine remain within the context of a General Bulletin. However, with the implementation of 5-Scale forecasting Rangers will be in the drainage daily and will keep a steady eye on changing conditions in Huntington Ravine. Until then, be sure to continue reading daily updates posted by the snow rangers. This will help keep you up-to-date with the developing snowpack and key weather events that will result in unstable layers to be of concern in coming weeks.

Even with the disparity in snow conditions, human triggered avalanches have been reported in both ravines this week. An obviously “upside-down” snow-pack kept climbers on their toes in Huntington with a few close calls being reported. An avalanche accident occurred in Tuckerman Ravine on January 17th, 2016 when two mountain travelers triggered an avalanche in the area known as “The Chute”. A total of 6 people from multiple parties were effected by the slope failure. Injuries were all non-life threatening, but one victim was transported from the ravine to Pinkham Notch where an ambulance was waiting. You can read more about this avalanche on the Incidents and Accidents portion of the MWAC Website.

Avalanche Advisories and MWAC Website – Know Before You Go!

You can receive the daily avalanche advisories through several social media outlets. Of course, I find it easy enough to browse over to the recently remodeled MWAC website at http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org.

Once there, you can read the latest advisories, check out recent photos from the ravines, get in-depth insight into the snow-pack as snow rangers blog from “The Pit”, and share in a wealth of news and resources relating to snow, weather, and safety on Mount Washington. Oh and don’t forget Rangers are looking for your snow-pack observations from across the White Mountains this Winter. Observations can be submitted via the MWAC Website at this link.

Plenty of Winter Ahead…

This year, Martin Luther King weekend was back to normal in terms of mountain travelers. Last year, the same weekend was absurdly quite. It probably had a lot to do with super cold temps and plenty of winter weather south of the White Mountains. Fortunately, this year MLK weekend came just after the first real dose of winter here in New England. The right combination of precipitation (snow), temperatures, wind, and sun made perfect the recipe for playing in the mountains. The Harvard Cabin filled to capacity on Thursday night (as well as the tent-sites) and remained so throughout the weekend. It was a much needed change of pace and we are looking forward to continuing the trend this coming weekend. Plenty more sunshine in the forecast for the weekend without much in way of weather.

If you need a little extra motivation, it will be a good weekend for a true alpine start. Not only will you get a good view of mountains but, you’ll also have a great shot to 5 of our planetary neighbors. If you haven’t heard, for the next couple of weeks in the wee hours of the morning the planets Mercury, Mars, Venus, Saturn, and Jupiter will be on display in the eastern sky. The 2016 Planetary Conjunction should look great from Mt. Washington!

If you are in the mid-Atlantic states, I’d consider jumping in the car right now. If you don’t waste anytime you’ll miss the apocalypse and things will be all cleaned up by the time you return. In the mean-time, you would have enjoyed a few great days in the Alpine and helped carry-on the fine tradition that is The Harvard Cabin! We hope to see you!

Upcoming Events:

2nd Annual Backcountry VE Session @ The Harvard Cabin
HAM Radio Exam Session – Feb 20, 2016

EventOkay…well, many of you know that Marcia and I are shameless promoters of the hobby that is Amateur Radio (HAM Radio). Many of you also endure the endless harassment that goes with our promotion of the utility of radio, especially among all of you – our mountain friends! The White Mountain Amateur Radio Club will once again be hosting a Volunteer Exam Session at the Harvard Cabin this Winter. All License Class Level Exams will be offered this year. So, weather you are new to the hobby or an “old fist”, if you spend time in the mountains, we’d sure love to have you stop by for our 2nd Annual Backcountry VE Session. Click here for photos of last years session!

If you are interested but, not sure where to start, fear not. You too can join the increasing number of backcountry travelers who have joined the ranks of radio operators. There have been many who caved to the Marcia’s persuasive wit and so far haven’t any regrets except for not having done it sooner! The utility of radio is not only fun, it is also a great way to increase safety for yourself and your group. But, don’t take my word for it. Read this short White Paper presented as part of the International Snow Science Workshop 2012 titled TALKING THE TALK:Human Factors, Group Communication, and the Next Frontier in Snow Safety.
Ham RadioThe Ham Radio License Manual, published by the American Radio Relay League, is all you’ll need to pass your test. The book may be available at your local bookstore or library. Check there first or order from Amazon by clicking here.

Study time is about an hour a day for a week. Then you take a 35-question, multiple choice test. Get 26 correct and you’ll be issued your own callsign and have instant access to the Harvard Cabin from anywhere in the world…I kid you not! Pricing for high-powered, light-weight, handheld transceivers begins ~$30 US. Click here to browse!
Smugg’s Ice Bash – January 22-24, 2016
Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival – February 2-7, 2016
Adirondack Backcountry Ski Fest – March 5-6, 2016

Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker
Rich and Marcia
Cabin Caretakers 2015/16

NOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and March 31st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org/cabin

Our mailing address is:
Harvard Mountaineering Club
Student Organizations Center at Hilles
59 Shepard St #73
Cambridge, MA 02138

 

Flight into Emerald City

The First winter ascent of “Flight into Emerald City” M7+

The Washbowl Cliff
Keene Valley NY

Location: Upper Washbowl Cliff, Keene Valley NY
FA: Kevin Mahoney, Nick Bullock & Matt McCormick 1-20-2016

Kevin Mahoney on his way UP! - Matt McCormick

Kevin Mahoney on his way UP! – Matt McCormick

The Upper Washbowl Cliff 1-18-16 / Doug Millen

The Upper Washbowl Cliff 1-18-16 / Doug Millen

Kevin Mahoney on his way to the first winter ascent of “Flight into Emerald City” ( M7+) Yesterday (1-20-16) at the Upper Washbowl, Adirondacks NY. It was an amazing day racing the sun at one of my favorite spots in the Adirondacks with Kevin and visiting climber Nick Bullock who grabbed the 2nd ascent shortly after”. – Matt McCormick

When you get great climbers and rare conditions together, this is what happens! What a spectacular climb. Great work Kevin.

It’s early in Nick’s East Coast Ice Fest Tour and he is wondering “How the hell did this happen all over again and so soon?”…see his blog for more

Photos by Matt McCormick & Doug Millen

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Smuggs Ice Bash 2016

10th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash: January 22-24

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

Kick-off party | Drytooling Competition | Clinics | Slideshows & Speaker Presentation | Raffle | Camaraderie!

Free gear demos from the industries leading brands, clinics for the beginner to advanced climbers, multimedia slideshows by sponsored athletes, dry tooling competition and kick-off party, huge raffles and immense camaraderie in Vermont’s premier ice climbing destination, Smuggler’s Notch!

The goal of the Smuggs Ice Bash is to promote the sport of ice climbing, to educate climbers, to exhibit and demo new gear, and to share a weekend of fun, challenge, and inspiration with other winter enthusiasts in one of Vermont’s most amazing places, Smuggler’s Notch.

The raffle proceeds from the Smuggs Ice Bash will be going towards a much needed new rescue cache at Lake Willoughby. Last season the Rescue Cache on the South end was destroyed by ice. CRAG-VT has partnered with the AMC for a dollar-for-dollar match up to $400. Head over to the Cragvt.org to learn more or to donate. We’ll have loads of great prizes for Friday and Saturday’raffles so don’t miss your chance to win while supporting a much needed cause.

The KICK-OFF party

6th Annual Comp Poster

The Presenters

“Nick Bullocks presentation at the ADK Mountainfest was the best slide show I have seen in a long time. Nick was just bursting with energy, and so funny” – Doug Millen

If you missed him in the Dacks, be sure to see his show in Smuggs.

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The Smuggs Ice Bash is managed by Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School 105 Briggs Street Burlington, VT 05401 802-657-3872  www.petracliffs.com

You may also like:


Avalanche in the Chute 1/17/2016

“A minute or two later I heard a rumble and glanced up to the choke to see a size-able amount of snow come flying by. I yelled “Avalanche” multiple times as I tried to keep a visual on the 2 climbers I was able to make out in the fast moving slide. I had two students to my right, who were still 10-15 feet from the mass of snow that had just came blasting down the gully.”

Follow this link to read an analysis of yesterday’s avalanche in Tuckerman Ravine by EMS Climbing Guide, David Lottman.

Avalanche in the Chute 1/17/2016

A good read and reminder to stay aware, get educated and be safe out there this winter.

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Flying High at Mountainfest

ADK Mountainfest 2016 – Recap

20 Years of Mountainfest from NEice.com on Vimeo.

Solo takes to the sky during Mountainfest

PT at Poko

Climbers on the classic “Positive Thinking” Poke-O-Moonshine

The Waterfall

The Waterfall looking a little thin – Poke-O-Moonshine

The Quarry

Climbers learning how to climb steep ice at Pitchoff Quarry, Cascade Pass

Otus like you never saw it before

Otus like you never saw it before


Rugosity

Rugosity

Pitchoff Left

Pitchoff Left

Cascade Pass

Cascade Pass

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Big Brother, Chapel Pond


Nick Bullock walks through the “Ice Storm”.

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Nick Bullock on “Ice Storm”. M6, WI 5+. Chapel Pond Canyon.

FA: Alex Lowe and Scott Backes, 1/98. On the first assent Scott lent Alex 4 new stubby ice screws for the climb, “and he roached everyone” (hitting the rock below) Scott said.

“A good introduction to Adirondack ice climbing” – Matt Horner

“Back in the East. Small crags shine with sheen. Breaking glass. Control the burn and control the brain and control the urge to sprint. Sprinting is not a recommendation. The protection glints a long way below. “You can never have enough pound in kit Nick.” I remember my friend Byard saying just after I almost hit the deck. “We’ll start steady, Matt McCormick said and almost as quick as you can say epic, I was teetering high, attached to thin silver looking at the distance I would go and my head screamed, ‘How the hell did this happen all over again and so soon?’” – Nick Bullock

More on Nicks Blog…

Photos by Matt Horner

Fun for everyone

Barry-can-Suffer

Barry-can-Suffer

VinnyAndEd

Ed gets the Golden Ice Ax award

The-Crowd

The-Crowd

The-Belay

Keep that belay tight!

 

Smuggs Ice Bash 2016 – Recon Report

01-12-2016

by Tim Farr

Smuggs Ice Bash 2016Petra Cliffs

The ice in Smugglers Notch is building fast! With the Smuggs Ice Bash taking place in a little over a week, January 22-24th, there should be plenty of ice and mixed terrain for all of us hungry and deprived climbers to whack away at!

This past Sunday’s heavy rain and thunderstorms that commanded the day didn’t impact the ice conditions quite to the level one would expect. Many of the climbs that were in condition and had been seeing ascents remained climbable. The biggest hit from the storm was to the snowpack. Practically non-existent in much of the Notch, many of the deep drifts and wallowing we are accustomed to by now just aren’t there this year. The heavy rain followed by several days of cold temps that went well below freezing at night have made traveling on the snow quick and easy. Strap on the ‘pons for the firm crust and away you go.
Many of the gullies used for approaching some of the longer climbs are nice and firm making for easy approaches and even extending the length of a few routes that are usually covered by feet of snow. There is still a lot of moving water and one could find holes and pockets where a boot could pop through soft snow, but the moving water is only going to aid in growing more and more ice with the extended forecast looking very good for continued ice growth.IMG_4414

Throughout the Notch there are currently a number of things to climb, though many of the routes still have thin or mixed sections; I imagine this will fill in quickly. Up in the Blind Fate Amphitheater both Blind Fate and Norton-Gibney are in climbable shape and Blue Ice Bulge seems to have a couple of variations possible as well. One can hope that the ephemeral line left of Norton-Gibney, ‘Illogical Hydrology’, makes an appearance this year.
Hidden Gully has seen numerous ascents this season but the crux still seems to be the first 15 feet at its entrance. This year the typical thick bulge of WI3- ice that forms at its entrance has formed into a thin ribbon tucked into the right corner. Pull this crux, minding the top out, and the route will get much better with good conditions higher up in the gully. All three variations in the amphitheater are in climbable shape.

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The climbs found within the Easy Gully vicinity have held on and will be rebounding quickly over the next several days. Grand Confusion, Poster Child, Grand Illusion, Dominatrix and Black Sunshine are all in climbable shape or building fast for those willing to take on the challenge.

Grand Confusion is in climbable shape and the mixed route to its left, ‘Confusionism’ is a great route to climb if you’re waiting for a party on Grand Confusion or as the main objective.

Many of the routes closer to the road are all in climbable shape except for the odd thin or mixed move required with any deviations from the fattest line. With little snow on the ground, travel to and from these routes should be nice and quick.

As for routes surrounding the Ragnarock, Elephants Head and South Wall Areas, all are in some form of climbable shape, but all show evidence of varying states of delamination or require a few mixed moves. While Ragnarock’s P1 and P2 could be climbed, the top pitch seem like it could use a bit of growth. Give it a week with the expected forecast and the climbs in this area should fatten up immensely.
Come time for the Smuggs Ice Bash, next weekend, the Notch should be in great shape to host the flood of climbers hiking up the road to find their intended climbable lines.

~Tim Farr
Membership / Staff Manager
Smuggs Ice Bash Coordinator
Petra Cliffs Instructor & Guide
AMGA Certified SPI, Apprentice Rock & Ice Guide
NY State Lic. Rock and Ice Guide
105 Briggs St.
Burlington VT 05401
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20th Annual ADK International Mountaineering Festival

WELCOME TO MOUNTAINFEST 2016

January 15 through 18, 2016.

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF MOUNTAINFEST!

Clinics | Instructors | Registration | Schedule

ADK Mountainfest 2016

ADK Mountainfest 2016

Mountainfest is an annual celebration of ice climbing and mountaineering featuring guest athletes who entertain us with tales of climbing adventures, instructional clinics taught by visiting climbers and local guides, demo gear, and a chance to gather with the climbing community for an exciting winter weekend.

Mountainfest 2016 boasts an excellent lineup of speakers, including Patagonia athlete Barry Blanchard and DMM pro team member Nick Bullock. Barry has been to Mountainfest so many times that we consider him an Adirondack “local.” Barry and Nick’s slide shows on Saturday and Sunday evenings promise to be entertaining and also offer a chance to win raffle gear and free giveaways. In celebration of our 20th anniversary, Geoff Tabin, MD (aka the infamous Wilheim Jörge), co-founder of the Himalayan Cataract Project and a highly-accomplished mountain climber (Geoff was the fourth person in the world to climb the Seven Summits), is returning for a special cameo appearance Friday evening. Geoff will present “From Everest to Curing Blindness,” documenting his efforts to eliminate preventable blindness in third world countries by performing life-changing, low-cost cataract surgery, restoring sight to the previously blind. All proceeds from this presentation will directly support Geoff’s organization.

We’re offering more clinics than ever this year, including tons of ice climbing courses, snow and alpine climbing, snowshoe mountaineering, avalanche safety, and wilderness first aid. Many of the event sponsors will be here with the latest gear for you to take and climb with on both Saturday and Sunday.

Whether you come for the clinics or just climb on your own and check out the evening entertainment, Mountainfest is THE place to be this Martin Luther King weekend.

Hope to see you there!

Solo's First Trip to "The Lake"

We have been waiting for winter and it is here! The ice is building and with very cold weather coming things are going to go OFF! Next weekend should bring great conditions to most climbing areas.

This was Solo’s first trip to “The Lake” and everything went well. He was not intimated by the size of the ice climbs and can’t wait to return.

Here are a few photos from our flights.

Solo flying high on his first trip to "The Lake"

Solo flying high on his first trip to “The Lake”

Solo flying high at "The Lake"

Solo flying high at “The Lake”

Solo checking out the unfrozen lake from the North

Solo checking out the unfrozen lake from the North

Solo checking out the big wall section

Solo checking out the big wall section