Solo climbs the Last Gentleman, Promenade and China Shop on a sunny day in January. “The Lake” always delivers.
A birds eye view of “The Lake” and The Last Gentleman amphitheater, like you have never seen before! – View Full Screen for the best experience
Video, editing and flying by Doug Millen
January 15, 2016, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) announced its 2016 award recipients.
Every year the AAC recognizes outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing, and service to the climbing community. This year the awards were presented during the AAC’s Annual Benefit Dinner weekend, February 26–27, 2016, in Washington, D.C.
Local Northeast Hard Man Kevin Mahoney was given the The Robert and Miriam Underhill Award for 2016. His name now resides with such great climbers as, Yvon Chouinard, Jeff Lowe, Fred Beckey, Henry Barber and Steve House. Way to go Kevin!
Kevin with an empty glass after receiving his award. Someone give this man a refill. Wait, is this Matt Horner? 😉 – Photo: Matt Horner, Face Book
The Robert and Miriam Underhill Award is given annually to that person who, in the opinion of the selection committee, has demonstrated the highest level of skill in the mountaineering arts and who, through the application of this skill, courage, and perseverance, has achieved outstanding success in various fields of mountaineering. This year’s winner, Kevin Mahoney is a lifelong climber and mountain guide with a wealth of experience in Alaska, the Indian Himalaya and Europe. He was nominated for the Piolet d’Or for his new route, Arctic Rage on the East Face of Moose’s Tooth in Alaska which he completed with Ben Gilmore.
The Robert and Miriam Underhill Award—Robert L. M. and Miriam O’Brien Underhill are recognized as two of the great pioneers in American mountaineering. In their memory, The American Alpine Club has established the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award for outstanding mountaineering achievement.
Kim Schmitz Awarded : 2015
Steve House Awarded : 2014
Tom Frost Awarded: 2013
Mark Richey Awarded: 2012
Fred Beckey Awarded: 2011
Royal Robbins Awarded: 2010
Layton Kor Awarded: 2009
John Gill Awarded: 2008
Carlos Buhler Awarded: 2007
Henry Barber Awarded: 2006
Mark Wilford Awarded: 2005
Charlie Fowler Awarded: 2004
Jay Smith Awarded: 2003
Conrad Anker & Nancy Feagin Awarded: 2002
Annie Whitehouse Awarded: 2000
Jim Bridwell Awarded: 2000
Jack Tackle Awarded: 1999
Jim Donini Awarded: 1999
Allen Steck Awarded: 1998
Steven J. Swenson Awarded: 1997
Greg Child Awarded: 1996
Robyn Erbesfield Awarded: 1996
Stewart Alexander (Alex) Lowe (Deceased) Awarded: 1995
Alison Keith Osius Awarded: 1994
Michael P. Kennedy Awarded: 1994
Louis F. Reichardt Awarded: 1993
Terrance Manbeck Mugs Stump (posthumously) (Deceased) Awarded: 1992
Catherine Calhoun Grisson Awarded: 1991
Peter Croft Awarded: 1991
George Lowe Awarded: 1990
Yvon Chouinard Awarded: 1989
Todd Skinner Awarded: 1988
Paul Piana Awarded: 1988
Catherine M. Freer (posthumously) Awarded: 1987
Jeff Lowe Awarded: 1986
David Finlay Breashears Awarded: 1985
Lynn Marie Hill Awarded: 1984
John Roskelley Awarded: 1983
John Bachar Awarded: 1983
Kevin resides in Richmond Vermont with his wife Claire and two daughters Annika and Eliza.
Kevin worked rock climbing and mountaineering courses for the National Outdoor Leadership School for six years averaging 30-40 weeks a year in the field. So after college where Kevin had discovered his new passion for rock and ice climbing, he was now living his dream of spending more time in the backcountry than not. This is where Kevin became a teacher. Experiential education was the name of the game at NOLS and facilitating individuals’ learning experiences was as important as the technical skills being taught. This is where Kevin was the example. His leadership skills, his judgment, and his knowledge of the mountains were all scrutinized everyday, all day.
AWARDS
2010 Copp/Dash Inspired Award (Inaugural Grant) for Nupste in Nepal
2010 Lyman Spitzer Award (team member) for Nupste in Nepal
2009 Hans Saari Memorial Fund Ski Exploration Grant (team member) for Denali, AK
2008 Mugs Stump Award for Kangtega in Nepal
2004 Mugs Stump Award for the Mooses Tooth, AK
2004 Nominee, Piolet d’or Award for the first ascent of Arctic Rage on the Mooses Tooth, Alaska
2004 Golden Piton Award for the first ascent of Arctic Rage on the Mooses Tooth
2002 Lyman Spitzer Award, American Alpine Club for Thalay Sagar in India
2002 Alpinist B-team Award (Inaugural Grant) for Thalay Sagar in India
CERTIFICATIONS
IFMGA/UIAGM Certified Guide
AMGA Rock Guide Certified
AMGA Alpine Guide Certified
AMGA Ski Mountaineering Certified
AMGA Alpine Instructor
NOLS Senior instructor
Exum Mountain Guides senior guide
AIRE level III avalanche training
Wilderness First Responder
https://www.americanalpineclub.org/
MISSION:
To support our shared passion for climbing and respect for the places we climb.
VISION:
A united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes.
AUDIENCE:
Everyone who loves climbing.
CORE VALUES:
Authoritative climbing information, knowledge and resources benefit and inspire us and future generations.
Advocacy and leadership advance our climbing interests and promote conservation.
Community and competency strengthen and embolden us to push our limits.
Source: The American Alpine Club, Facebook, Mahoney Alpine Adventures
A great article from local New Hampshire guide, Peter Doucette of Mountain Sense Guides on how to manage ice fall during climbing.
“Getting pummeled by ice takes the fun out of ice climbing. Whether the falling ice is generated by another climber or is a spontaneous event, the consequences of being hit are usually the same. Alongside managing the cold, risk management around ice fall is something I spend extensive time assessing, avoiding when possible and managing when necessary. Here are a few ideas for doing just that.”
“Climbers as a culture tend to go for it, charging optimistically and enthusiastically. And I encourage that. It’s the quality of doing this blindly that’s worth examining.”
Read the full article from Outdoor Research here…
Photos by Doug Millen & Gabe Rogel
Harvard Cabin Mountaineers,
Hope life finds all of you well. Thanks to all of those who visited the Harvard Cabin Table at the 2016 Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest. Once again, the organizers have put on a world class ice climbing festival. No surprise, given the fact that this is the land where this whole crazy sport grew-up! I’m sure we all agree. Thanks to IME/IMCS, all guides, sponsors, and participants. I’m looking forward to MWV Ice Fest 2017!
Marcia and I continue to enjoy cabin life as Winter ever so slowly tightens its’ grip on the Presidential Range. We are going to be feeling that squeeze this weekend for sure. Last night, temperatures at cabin elevation dipped a few degrees below zero (-20 C) while summit temperature plunged to -27 F. Given the week that concluded the 2016 New Hampshire Primary Election, it is fair to say that a lot of hot air has left the State. It is very cold outside and could be getting colder over the course of this holiday weekend.
Snow and Ice Conditions
As a whole, there isn’t much new to report from the rock pile. The ice is as in as it has been for weeks! Climbers have been enjoying the usual go-to adventures in O’Dell, Pinnacle, Yale. There have only been a few climbers in the northern gullies this winter, given their still talus-filled approaches. For a peek into Hungtinton Ravine this week, Click Here.
A Feb 3-4th warm-weather event has left the snow pack with an almost uniform bullet-proof ice/crust. While we did receive 10+ inches of new snow this week densities didn’t allow for a great improvement in over all snow conditions. New snow that fell was what skiers and snow geeks call blower smoke! Super light snow made of perfectly formed stellar crystals. It really is millions of little tiny miracles leeching out of the sky. While we certainly welcomed the the new snow, the less the 5% water content didn’t do much for our base as much of the snow was transported out of the gullies.
This combo of hard ice layer and low-density snow resulted in “dust and crust” conditions. This has made mountain travel in steep terrain difficult with long-sliding falls being the most concerning hazard at the moment. There have been a few close calls reported this week that have proven “eye opening” for some new climbers moving around in the Alpine. There was also an evacuation of one such climber injured after experiencing a long sliding fall while approaching Central Gully. Thankfully Injuries were non-life threatening.
Of course, any snow is favorable trend. Last night (Feb 11), as wind velocities were on the increase, it was easy to see snow moving from North to South – From Nelson Crag to Lion Head and from Boot Spur into the Gulf of Slides. My view point from Conway today also showed continued snow transport across the range. Point being, natural avalanche activity was almost certain in the ravines today and hopefully that will help in bringing the Huntington Gullies and the “Fan” a step closer to their winter glory.
While the summit of Washington was in and out of the clouds all day, it was easy to see the wind battered summits below 6000 feet. It was cold, clear, and BRUTAL up there today. This will continue to be the case for the remainder of the weekend.
We’d sure enjoy your company this weekend but, we might suggest bringing a V-Thread tool and staying out of the Alpine Garden. Given wind and temps, the notches of Northern New Hampshire could prove to be less hospitable then usual, so why not come up and enjoy some quality alpine ice and show your love for the Harvard Cabin this Valentine’s Day. Retreating to a cabin warmed by the rare day-fire might not be so bad. The trail to the cabin is snow covered. Skis and Skins are suitable for those so equipped. While the John Sherburne Ski Trail is still far from ideal, it has also seen significant improvement this week. For what it’s worth, I actually had fun skiing to Pinkham today.
What ever you do this weekend. Stay safe, stay warm, and THINK SNOW! We’ll look forward to seeing you sooner then later if not this weekend.
Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker
NOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and March 31st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org/cabin
by Kevin MacKenzie
Date: January 30, 2016
Climbers: Kevin MacKenzie, Bill Schneider & Devin Farkas
Duration/Mileage/Elevation Gain: 15.75 hours /18+ miles /5,300 feet
Approach: 8.5 miles from the Garden Trailhead, Keene Valley
The first views, Panther Gorge
I needed my Panther Gorge fix and the warm January temperatures in the valley prompted me to consider how much ice might have formed up in the gorge. The low snowpack made it even more tempting given the 8.5 mile-long approach. Panther Gorge veteran Bill Schneider and Devin Farkas, assistant director of the Outdoor Program at St. Lawrence University, jumped on board. It’s nice to have friends that like to suffer! We met at the Rooster Comb parking lot at 5:00 am to sort gear and drive a single car to the Garden Trailhead. Temperatures hovered at 15F though they were forecast to rise to the mid-thirties in the valley.
We hoped to have a firm crust on which to bushwhack from the Phelps Trail to the climbing walls. It was 10:00 am. when we stepped off trail at the Marcy/Haystack col. I sank to my knees in snowshoes…so much for easy. I broke trail to the Panther Den wall while dodging snow bombs from the balsams. Bill and Devin emerged soon after I crawled out of the last, particularly dense section. This was Devin’s first visit to the “promised land”—God’s country—and he wasn’t disappointed based on his reaction.
A large right facing corner, usually wet during the summer, held ice though it was thinner than I expected. Haystack was decorated with fat ice flows from nearly every ledge. Linking them could be an interesting route for the future. We continued lower to southern end of the Panther Den wall. Continuous tiers of ice led up to the vertical wall that Bill and I climbed this past summer when we put up Cat on a Wet Tin Roof (5.8). Enticing as it appeared, we wanted to explore deeper in the gorge.
Looking up pitch 1 from a tier or two up the route
Bill broke trail to the Feline Wall where Devin took over. A smear touched down though it was partially delaminated and thin. The line was fatter in November when Adam Crofoot, Allison Rooney and I spotted it while bushwhacking along the Haystack side. Longer days of sun on the black rock had taken a toll. A nearby gully held interesting possibilities.
We climbed up along the left side of the Feline Wall; Bill and Devin continued down to the Agharta (NOT pronounced AgarTHa) Wall where the Agharta ice route was fat and tempting. There were no options for a new independent line so we re-ascended to the aforementioned ice at the Panther Den Wall (44°6’49.4”N, 73°54’23.9”W). The approach and exploration had taken seven hours. It was 12:15 pm and time to climb.
The first strikes of Bill’s tools shattered the ice. It was very dry. We’d hoped that the recent rains at lower elevations might have kept the water moving up high. Apparently the precipitation was snow at 4,000 feet in elevation. Yes, it gets colder with elevation, but temperature inversions have been common lately. Moderate winds swirled the snow as Bill climbed out of sight. I considered the possibilities as he climbed—would it be more of a snow/ice mountaineering route or consistent ice? The gorge is a roll of the dice, summer or winter so I hoped this would turn out to be a good choice and go the full length. About an hour later he set up an anchor and pulled up the slack.
I started via a short vertical pitch into a narrow gully and up to a tier of thick white-yellow ice. The tiers continued to a large right facing corner. Another higher vertical section led to the belay station 150 feet from the base. Any concerns about the quality of the line evaporated. It was interesting, consistent and had a killer view.
Valley temperatures in the 30s Fahrenheit didn’t make it warm on Marcy where the ambient temperature was probably around 20. Strong winds accompanied the ascent and dropped the wind-chill to somewhere around zero degrees. Devin followed and we regrouped on the spacious terrace. An ice filled chimney (a mossy dripping mess in the summer) sat in a huge corner on the left side of the terrace—the money pitch.
Bill in the crux chimney, about 170 feet up
Bill led again. Delicate strikes kept falling plates to a minimum. The wind strengthened and cleaned nearby snow covered ledges. Smaller pieces of falling ice combined with the spindrift and took flight to the south. Devin belayed while I photographed and studied the ice flows on Little Haystack. It would be a war to get to them, but a couple could be worth the effort.
It was impossible to hear anything except Devin who was only a few feet away so three tugs on the rope from Bill signaled that it was time for me to climb again. A series of awkward moves in the chimney led to another terrace. A lightly iced corner led to a committing step up and left to lower angled ice below a right facing corner. Twenty more feet led into the krummholz and into a talus cave, Bill’s man-cave. He’d found a protected nook about 30 feet deep and was belaying from a pinch-point between two pieces of talus. The 250-foot By Tooth and Claw route was up.
Two rappels later found us back at the base at 4:30 pm. Only a bushwhack out of the gorge and 8-mile walk back to the trailhead stood between a hot dinner, cup of coffee and comfortable bed. The steep climb out of the gorge was in sync with a setting sun and still-increasing winds that whipped through the pass. The previous effort of trail-breaking paid dividends during the exit; it had consolidated into a supportive trail. The best adventures begin and end in the dark and this was no exception. We arrived back at the trailhead at 9:05 pm, 15 ¾ hours after starting—about average for day trips to the gorge.
Prior Panther Gorge Explorations:
On Mountainproject: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/byt…claw/111600381
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4ZVdSkyDsk
Photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/1043263…42016January30
Solo captures Jonathan Baldassare leading “Drop Line”(WI5),at Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch NH during the 23rd Annual Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest
Video by Solo, flown by Doug Millen
Salt Lake City, Utah (February 4, 2016) – Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., in cooperation with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), voluntarily issued a recall, subject to user inspection, of carabiners/quickdraws because of the possibility of defects in the gate that could cause the carabiner to fail or function incorrectly.
This recall concerns carabiners/quickdraws with manufacturing codes between 4350 and 6018.
Salt Lake City, Utah (February 4, 2016) – Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. in cooperation with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), voluntarily issued a recall, subject to user inspection, of 18mm Nylon Runners 60cm/24in (Style Number 380060) and 18mm Nylon Runners 120cm/48in (Style Number 380061) because of a possibility that the Nylon Runner is not load-bearing and will fail under standard use.
This recall concerns nylon runners with a manufacturing code of 2014 or 2015, which is found on the sewn in label.
FA: Peter Doucette & Travis Weil
Jan 22, 2016
WI6, M6+, 30m
Peter Doucette and Travis Weil did a what they believe is a new route on the South Face of Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch NH. It is to the right of Bayard’s and Josh Hurst’s line “Strippers” and Left of Wrath of the Valkyries.
It was first tried by Bayard Russell last year. Bayard and Matt Ritter tried it again, with reports of some pretty proud whippers on the pins up there. “It was a cool technical ice climb, sustained throughout”
It formed differently this year and there was a mixed sequence leading left to an ice exit through a thin curtain. “It was a wild pull over the lip with an important heel hook between two small pillars under the roof”.
A stack of stubbies in thin ice up to the middle of the climb gets you started. 2 pins right from previous attempts protect the next section. The pins are 12 and 15 feet to the right when you pull the crux. There is a decent thread under the roof that was the key to protecting the route. A heel hook gives you time to get established on and above the curtain.
“We named it “Last Call” to go with the Indecent Exposure, Cocaine, Nosebleed, Strippers, Pole Dance themes previously established in the area. It was a cool technical ice climb, sustained throughout”- Peter
It has been a tough week for any routes that get sun. Frankenstein’s South Face went from really good, to non existent in a weeks time.
Information & photos provided by,
Peter Doucette
AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide
mountainsenseguides.com
peter@mountainsenseguides.com
603-616-7455
The South Face of Frankenstein Cliff 1-22-16
The lower half of the climb
Looking Down the Climb
Time to clean the gear
Press Release 1-30-2016
Ice Climbing at The Devils Kitchen – Photo: www.mountainskills.biz
The Devil’s Kitchen of Platte Clove, NY has been donated to the state of New York to be included as part of Catskill Park, for future generations to access and enjoy.
Elka Park, New York. Two ice climbers and local land owner work together to donate a unique parcel of land known as the Devil’s Kitchen to the State of New York.
Climbing partners Morris Sachs of Greenwich, Connecticut, and Marty Molitoris of Rosendale, New York, have been working hard the past two years to acquire a treasured piece of property in the Catskills with the vision of donating it to the state for future use and access. That vision has finally come to fruition. The property known as the Devil’s Kitchen, is located at the top of Country Route 18, Platte Clove Road in Elka Park, Greene County, NY, just above where the road is closed in winter and the plows turn around. The parcel is known by many — from hikers to ice climbers — and starts at Mossy Brook, right under the old stone arch bridge and goes down the gully into the cliff-lined gorge known as the Upper Devil’s Kitchen to where it meets existing NYS property in the Lower Devil’s Kitchen.
The existing state property known as the Lower Devil’s Kitchen is regularly visited by ice climbers in winter. Over the years, Molitoris and Sachs have had many adventures on the ice in the Lower Devil’s Kitchen. They came to realize how special a place it is and how, with the intricacies and difficulty of the current access, how vital the upper parcel is for access in the future.
Molitoris, author of An Ice Climber’s Guide to the Catskill Mountains, operates Alpine Endeavors, LLC (www.AlpineEndeavors.com), based in the Hudson Valley region of NY. When he learned the property containing the Upper Devil’s Kitchen parcel was listed for sale he contacted Viera Bolcek, the land owner, to gauge her interest in dividing the land and selling off the parcel.
Hearing about the possibility of purchasing and donating the land, Sachs along with his wife Sheryl and their family, decided to support the project 100%. From their generosity, the idea become a reality. It took well over a year to work out the arrangements and purchase the property, then just over another year to complete the necessary paperwork and permits to gift the property to the state. As of November 1, 2015, the property is officially part of the Catskill Park.
For more information on ice climbing in the Devil’s Kitchen and all of the Catskills, please visit:
Alpine Endeavors – www.AlpineEndeavors.com
Catskill Ice Climbing – www.CatskillIceClimbing.com
Rock and Snow – www.RockAndSnow.com
Solo had a great time at the 20th ADK Mountainfest and captured some spectacular images. His first trip to the Adirondacks and he can’t wait to return. Many thanks to The Mountaineer and Rock and River for all the hospitality.
Photos by Solo, flown by Doug Millen
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