New Ice Climbs
Articles posted on NEice
Road Warrior – M8
Lake Willoughby, VT FA: 01-25-12 Ryan Brooks and Josh Hurst “Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby” – Josh Rack: Standard rock rack including two #3 Camalots and three ½” cams, no pins, 5 screws: including 2x 10cm and 3x 13 cm. The Route ascends a large corner 200 […]
Seams Thin
New mixed climb at Trollville “Seams Thin” – M6 Location: Trollville (Duck’s Head), Jackson NH FA: Peter Doucette & Erik Eisele Date: January 2012 Gear: No bolts but five pins. And the rack is pretty specific — doubles on small cams, offset nuts and a number four Camalot. Descent: Rappel the route. “Kind of a sad season […]
Pole Dance
Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch NH Pole Dance- NEI 5 FA: December 17, 2010 Kevin Mahoney, Bayard Russell & Matt McCormick “After an exciting afternoon on the ground dodging missiles in the south facing sun, “Pole Dance” went down. This new route at Frankenstein is right of the Bragg-Pheasant in a spot I had never seen any […]
BOLD New Ice Route
Simian Poko-O-Moonshine, NY NEI 5+R/X, M-fun, 450-500 ft FA 3/9/11 – Ian Osteyee & Bill Simes “Basically no gear on the first pitch until the topout ledge, then just a 10cm screw. Similar to Stingray but no anchor to clip halfway up. They went up the face where summer rock routes Cooney-Norton, 10b and Cosmopolitan […]
Fluffy
Go back Mountain, NH Fluffy – NEI 6 X 60m – FA: Josh Hurst, Ian Austin Start: Immediately left of Valhalla in the Valhalla Amphitheater Protection: Stubbies, Screws, .5-3 Camalots Descent: Rap route Extenuating Circumstances: Ice was 1/2″-2″ thick at start for the first ascent, first good protection was a Camelot behind an excavated […]
New M8 at “The Lake”
Tiny Dancer Lake Willoughby, VT FA: 01-21-11 Ryan Brooks and Josh Hurst “Tiny Dancer, It’s between Plug and Chug and Call of the Wild. It’s a modern mixed route that deserves to see a lot of traffic due to it’s accessibility, reliability and rock quality” -Josh Hurst P1: M7 Climb 20′ of Plug and Chug […]
Endangered Species
Poko-O-Moonshine – Adirondacks, NY 01/14/2011 Adirondack Mountainfest 2011 Story Up-Date 1/20/11 from Bayard Russell True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Bayard Russell, Matt Horner & Matt McCormick established – “Endangered Species” M6+ NEI5+ R. The climb is just to the right of Jeff Lowes legendary line “Gorillas in the Mist”. “It’s so cool […]
Hydropower M9 WI5-
Possibly the hardest mixed route in the Catskills FA Matt McCormick 2/22/10 “On my first attempt of the day on the new route I made it all the way to the ice before elbowing my ice tool out of a hook while clipping! AAAHHHH! I couldn’t believe it. I had the route in the […]
