Harvard Cabin – Your Help is Needed – October 13th and 14th, 2012

/0 Comments/in /by

Greetings Harvard Cabin Mountaineers

We hope everyone had a great summer and is enjoying the Fall. Bonne Action de grâce’ to all of our friends in Quebec! September was fantastic with lots of warm, dry rock for all to enjoy. A relatively dry Summer and early Fall left the foliage looking tired. However, the last couple of weeks have been very wet and the foliage is rebounding nicely. The explosion of colors is peaking this week and it looks like we might see the sun soon! Of course, all of this rain has us thinking about the aquifers that will be helping to grow the early season ice!

Your Help is Needed – October 13th and 14th, 2012 – Please Read Solar Electric Upgrade Below

In case you didn’t hear me say it last season, this coming winter marks fifty years at Harvard Cabin! The construction of Harvard Cabin alone makes for an interesting story. Let us not forget the historical significance it hold here in the White Mountains and the role it played in the pursuit of modern technical ice climbing! Most importantly, we can’t forget the memories we’ve all made at the Harvard Cabin. It is a special place for sure -an experience you’d be hard-pressed to match anywhere in the World!

I had the privilege of spending a weekend at the cabin this summer with Former HMC President Ted Carman (Harvard Class of 1963) and some of his family members. Mr. Carman was the prime mover in the construction of the cabin following the demise of the Spur Cabin, which was located on the John Sherburne Ski Trail. Ted had the great vision, the proper sense of urgency, the tenacity, and the resourcefulness to get the job done! It’s no surprise that following his service in the United States Navy, Ted went on to become a pioneer in running non-profit community development companies. He focused on affordable housing and revitalization projects throughout New England. The construction of Harvard Cabin is still listed on his resume in a long list of projects he has lead. Click Here for a photo of Ted visiting the cabin this August!

Renovations

In conjunction with our 50th Anniversary, we have been working on a number of cabin renovations. Marcia, myself, and a handful of other volunteers have enjoyed many a pack-board trips up the Tux Trail over the last couple of months with new materials. Click Here for some photos of recent changes at Harvard Cabin.

Caretaker’s Den

The Caretaker’s Den has been gutted and will soon be reconstructed with all new framing, plywood, rigid-foam insulation, and a new window. The renovations will help to keep warm-air in and rodents out! The Caretakers Den has been an unusable, unhealthy space for the last few seasons due to high-moisture levels that lead to mold. Renovations will hopefully resolve these issues by reducing moisture and keeping warm-air in and rodents out!

Solar Electric Upgrade

Click Here or the link below to Volunteer to Haul!

In other exciting news, the club is planning an upgrade to our Solar Electric System. The purpose of this project is largely to increase cabin safety by increasing emergency radio time and allowing the club to replace the gas lights we all know and love. Besides being expensive and not very user-friendly, the lights produce Carbon Monoxide (CO) and present a burn hazard. The plan is to retrofit the gas fixtures with ultra-soft LED Lighting. We are hoping to maintain a color temperature that will mimic the soft glow of the gas lights.

As part of this upgrade, we need to build a mast to mount our new panels. The mast will be set in concrete…about 2000 Pounds of concrete to be exact. We need to set the foundation within the next three weeks, but first the cement mix must be brought uphill. This is where you can help. By volunteering to haul a 40 pound bag of concrete up hill, you can help get this job done quickly. The Annual Harvard Cabin work weekend is October 13th-14th. This year we are asking for some help from outside the club. We are calling for help from all people who know and love the Harvard Cabin! Come be part of preparing the cabin for another 50 years!

If you are available to help next weekend, October 13th or 14th, please take a minute to fill out this form. That way we can know approximately how many bags of concrete to have on-hand. We will be meeting in the Pinkham Parking lot at 10 AM on Saturday and Sunday. Volunteers are asked to bring a backpack suitable for carrying a 40 pound (18 Kilogram) bag of cement mix. Lining your pack with a plastic trash bag wouldn’t be a bad idea. Don’t forget food and water!

Sorry, our permit will not allow use to accommodate overnight guests, but feel free to spend the day at the cabin!

If you can’t make our work weekend, but will be in the vicinity of the cabin anytime in the next couple of weeks. Feel free to hike up a bag of cement mix. 40 pound bags of Quikrete are available at your local hardware store for about $3.00! Thanks for your help!!!

Thanks everyone and please let us know if you are interesting in lending a helping hand at the cabin. We could really use help hanging new windows and someone who is good with DC lighting. Perhaps someone who is familiar with marine lighting and circuitry.

Thanks again. Get after it and stay safe! As always, Think Snow! Hope to see you next weekend! Bring your friends!

Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker
Rich@powder-hound.com

NEice – The Mobile Edition

/0 Comments/in /by

We are proud to bring you NEice.com on your Smart Phone.

It doesn’t matter if you have an Android or Apple, and no App. required…just go to NEice.com on your mobile device and you will be taken the mobile version of NEice.com. Easy navigation and all the articles are formatted to your device for easy viewing. You have access to all the stories, climbs and articles in real time. No more clutter, zooming or moving around the page. You get just the information you are looking for in an easy to view and use form.

Coming soon!……The Mobile hookup to the NEice Forum.

~Doug

Northeast climbers win Piolet d’Or!

/0 Comments/in , /by

Piolet d'Or winners 2012

Piolets d’Or 2012

The 2012 recipients are:  Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson (USA) for their ascent of Saser Kangri II (7,518m), India.

The first ascent by experienced U.S. climbers, Freddie Wilkinson, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson of 7518 meter Saser Kangri II in India garnered the trio a 2012 Piolet d’Or Award.

The summit is the second highest previously unclimbed mountain in the world. Their climb, “The Old Breed”, WI4 M3, 1700m, is a great example of committing lightweight alpine-style climbing at high altitude. They gained the summit by ascending the steep 1,700 metre south-west face over four days of climbing, utilizing three bivouacs. According to Alpinist magazine, “Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering.”

The trio used special lightweight ice hammocks designed by Richey to create flat bivi sites on the route.

Way to go guys!!!!

for more about their ascent: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11x/n…d-highest-peak

Also see: https://www.facebook.com/thepioletsdor  / http://www.pioletsdor.com/

~rockytop

Photo / Source: https://www.facebook.com/thepioletsdor

 

Joe Szot – GONE!

/10 Comments/in /by

 Adirondack Climbing Legend Dies

Joe Szot at Mountainfest 2012

The Rollie Master, Joe Szot

Joe Szot, 51, died of a heart attack while rock climbing in the Shawangunks Mountains of NY,  March 14, 2012

Joe was climbing a route and started feeling poorly.  He asked to be lowered. Once on the ground he stopped breathing. His partner called 911 and preformed CPR till help arrived. They could not save him.

Joe Szot was bigger than life and a fixture in the Adirondack climbing community. He will be missed by many and Keene Valley will never be the same. Our best to his family, friends and all that knew him. Please respect their privacy during this difficult time.

More details as they become available.

– Doug Millen

Feature photo: New Years fire works at the “Bivy”. To you Joe!  RIP

 

News and Information – 2.23.12

/0 Comments/in /by

Ice Climbing News and Information from around the Web

A Word – “Thank God there are a few young climbers like Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk who exemplify the best qualities of alpinism. The magnificent southeast ridge of Cerro Torre has been unshackled and can now be an inspiration to future alpinists who have the courage to climb rather than merely summit by any possible means.” – Yvon Chouinard

Cerro Torre: Deviations from Reason – Kelly Cordes

The Scottish Boogie – Bayard Russell

American Alpine Club Annual Benefit Dinner – Boston, MA – March 2 & 3, 2012 – Please join Mark, Freddie, and the rest of the Saser Kangri II team for a journey—vividly told in words, images, and video—to one of the last frontiers of Himalayan climbing. – AAC

The Old Breed – THE OLD BREED is a documentary short film about the first ascent of Saser Kangri II, located in the Eastern Karakoram. At 7518 meters high, SKII was the second-highest unclimbed mountain in the world. It was climbed on August 24th, 2011, by the American team of Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, and Freddie Wilkinson. –  Cowboy Bear Ninja on Vimeo

The Fine Art of Going Sideways – Freddie Wilkinson

I LOVE CHOSS – A visual exploration of mixed climbing in the Catskill’s  by  Christopher Beauchamp

Ice Revolution with Rick Wilcox – Granite Films

Six Ascents Nominated For 20th Piolets d’Or – Alpinist

A professor sprays – Raphael Slawinski

How To Use a Pull Cord For Rappelling – Bigfoot Mountain Guides

Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope – Petzl

MICRO TRAXION –  Efficient ultralight progress capture pulley – Petzl

Aartun and Gravdal Die On Norwegian Big Wall – Alpinist

Colin Haley’s reflections on climbing with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun – Colin Haley

Ice Climbing World Cup in Saas Fee | Official UIAA Movie

Media Partnership with the American Alpine Club

/0 Comments/in , /by

NEice is proud to announce that it has become a Media Partner of the American Alpine Club (AAC).  As a Media Partner, NEice will provide exposure for the AAC among the northeast’s dedicated and zealous population of ice climbers.  NEice sees thousands of visitors each month during the ice climbing season.  As such, it is the #1 site for information on ice climbing in New England and the Northeast.  With its active community of members, NEice will undoubtedly be a valuable partner for the AAC in promoting its overall mission and the efforts of its local chapter: American Alpine Club – Northeast Region.

This partnership will also help increase NEice’s exposure beyond the Northeast: Being a Media Partner means that NEice will receive press on the AAC’s website, E-news, and even some printed material. The AAC has played an integral role in promoting the sport of climbing across the nation since 1902, while also working tirelessly on access and conservation efforts.  NEice is excited to contribute to the AAC’s continuing mission of providing “knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community.”

“The American Alpine Club is committed to supporting and inspiring climbers from their first days on the rock through a lifetime of climbing. The work we do has the endorsement of numerous industry media leaders. Our Media Partners—magazines, websites, photographers, artists—provide essential in-kind support to improve and spread the AAC’s message.”

 

Comp WINNERS! Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2012

/0 Comments/in , /by

WINNERS of the Drytooling Comp

Friday Night at the Cranmore Climbing Wall, North Conway NH

Kevin Mahoney climbed strong to win the Men’s division

Kevin Mahoney climbing to win! the MWV Ice Fest Comp

Kevin Mahoney about to enter the first crux of the climb – Photos by Doug Millen

 Click photos to enlarge

Janet Bergman makes it to the last obsticle to win the Women’s division

Janet Bergman on the last obstacle

Janet Bergman on the last obstacle to win – Photos by Doug Millen

Janet BergmanJanet Bergman
Comp Results

Men’s

1st – Kevin Mahoney

2nd – Bayard Russell

3rd – Ivan Tighe

Women’s 

1st – Janet Bergman

2nd – Andrea Charest

3rd – Lindsay Fixmer

Many thanks to Cranmore for hosting the climbing event and to IME and IMCS for making it all happen, and to the sponsors…Thank you!

Ice Fest Blog

Road Warrior – M8

/8 Comments/in , , /by

Lake Willoughby, VT

FA: 01-25-12  Ryan Brooks and Josh Hurst

 “Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby” – Josh

Rack: Standard rock rack including two #3 Camalots and three ½” cams, no pins, 5 screws: including 2x 10cm and 3x 13 cm.

The Route ascends a large corner 200 meters to the north of Twenty Below Zero Gully.

P1: NEI 4 50m Climb the left most ice flow, pull the overlap onto thin ice and a good stance. Foot traverse left and up easy mixed to the base of the big corner.

P2: M6 25m Up the big corner. Do not rap off the tree, your ropes will get stuck.

P3: M8 35m Traverse up and right following flakes to the ice. When the ice ends at the big roof, traverse right around the roof to a belay back left. If the ice smear extends to the overlap midpitch, the second crux can be avoided, lowering the grade half a notch.

P4: NEI 4- 20m Climb thickening ice to the trees.

Descent: Walk off or rap the route from anchors at the top of P3 and P1.

[slideshow id=23]

Josh’s notes:

Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby. It’s a modern mixed route with a very traditional feel requiring a full rack. The name comes from the absurd amount of driving it took to complete this route, 50+ hours over 6 days, and the apocalyptic setting at the base of the large rock fall. (Who doesn’t have a crush on Mel Gibson anyway?) It should be noted that the route is clean and is on some of the best rock at Willoughby. The route forms every year, this year being the smallest I’ve seen it.

The Back Story by Josh Hurst

Source: Josh Hurst

Note: This pair also put up “TINY DANCER” at The Lake last year.

 

Jake List – Climbing to Win!

/0 Comments/in /by

Slide Show

Jake List of Hinesburg Vermont takes 1st place for the Men at the 2nd Annual Drytooling Comp. This event was held at Petra Cliffs during the 2012 Smuggs Ice Bash.

[slideshow id=22]
–
Many thanks to Petra Cliffs for hosting the dry tooling comp and to all the sponsors that make this event happen.

American Alpine Club Announces One-of-a-Kind Boston Giveaway

/0 Comments/in /by

Golden, CO—Today The American Alpine Club—dedicated to knowledge, inspiration, conservation and advocacy for the climbing community—released a chance to win a prize package so unique that it cannot be bought. The giveaway will offer one winner the following items, redeemable in Boston at the 2012 Annual Benefit Dinner on March 3:

Enter by February 6 for a chance to win special AAC Annual Benefit Dinner prizes and access• Two VIP Passes to the Annual Dinner. The VIP reception, overlooking Boston Harbor, is an intimate gathering of North America’s most accomplished climbers and mountaineers. The guest list includes Jack Tackle, Tom Hornbein, Janet Bergman, John Bragg, Jimmy Surette, and more.• Ice Axe signed in person by the Saser Kangri II team. Freddie Wilkinson, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson—the evening’s keynote presenters—recently summited the world’s second-highest unclimbed mountain and will sign a special axe to the winner.• $100 toward the Silent Auction, which includes climbing art, one-of-a-kind trips, and gear packages from The North Face, Mountain Hardwear, and Outdoor Research.• AAC backpack filled with goodies, including a signed hardback of One Mountain Thousand Summits, the award-winning book by Wilkinson. At the dinner, he will premiere The Old Breed, a video masterpiece about the Saser Kangri II expedition. Watch Trailer


GIVEAWAY DETAILS: Every person who buys a ticket to the 2012 Annual Benefit Dinner by February 6th automatically will be entered to win this giveaway package!

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/2012-annual-benefit-dinner-giveaway

The Annual Benefit Dinner is the AAC’s signature and largest annual event. In addition to fine dining and entertainment, the Dinner mingles climbers of all generations and abilities to celebrate the vibrant state of this 110-year-old organization. The event will be held in Boston at the Seaport Hotel and will celebrate a year of change and success through the theme of Partnership: Climbing through the Generations.

“In line with our theme, the weekend’s feature presentation will share the inspiring story of men and women from different generations climbing together in one of the world’s last uncharted places,” said Erik Lambert, Information & Marketing Director for the AAC. “The giveaway is an added incentive to bring younger climbers and more seasoned explorers together, celebrating the shared experience of the climbing life.”

Following dinner, Boston native Mark Richey (age 53) and climbing partners Freddie Wilkinson (age 32) and Steve Swenson (age 57) will share inspiration from their August 2011 Saser Kangri II expedition. They reached the 7,518-meter summit of the second-highest unclimbed mountain in the world—one of the last frontiers of Himalayan climbing.

Every ticket sold helps The American Alpine Club raise funds to improve its programs: protecting and preserving the places we climb, bringing climbers together, expanding information resources, grants, lodging, and more. Founded by a Boston native in 1902, the AAC has advocated for climbers throughout the generations, with a progressive implementation of new programs. In 2011 the Club:

• Hired staff around the country to ensure that the AAC is vibrant in your backyard. These Regional Coordinators regularly connect with Members by hosting local events, conservation projects, and more. Sarah Garlick supports the Northeast Region from North Conway, NH.

• Expanded its Member benefits to include rescue insurance, gym and gear discounts, and new and improved places for climbers to stay, such as the rebuilt Snowbird Hut in Alaska and the new AAC Clubhouse in Kathmandu, Nepal.

• Purchased 40 acres of land on the rim of West Virginia’s New River Gorge. The AAC is
working with local conservation and climbing organizations to break ground this year on a Climbers’ Campground with amenities walking distance from popular crags.

• Launched a new website, bringing local communities together in a more
user-friendly and attractive online space.

• And in 2012, the Club will break ground on a new Climbers’ Campground with easy access to climbing in New York’s Shawangunks.

“The AAC is at its best when we can be helpful to climbers where they climb—in their own backyards,” said Executive Director Phil Powers. “Our Members in the Northeast raised their hands to host the Annual Dinner this year. Regional staff and volunteers are working together to make it a truly top-notch event with a great local flavor. This is just one example of how the AAC is changing. We’re listening to our Members and helping them build what they want from the ground up.”

For more information and tickets, visit americanalpineclub.org/2012dinner 

To encourage younger climbers to attend this gathering of the generations, those 28 and younger may purchase tickets at half price.

About The American Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club provides knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community. The AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world’s most sought-after climbing annuals, The American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world’s leading climbing library and country’s leading mountaineering museum; manages the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants to adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org. Join the AAC’s online community at facebook.com/americanalpineclub.