Ghost River Seasonal Access Secured

Alberta Canada / January 18, 2010

After four years of lobbying and negotiations the Climbers Access Society of Alberta (CASA) won a seasonal permit from the Alberta Government for access into the North Ghost.

There are two elements to the access permit.

First, the permit grants access to climbers right now.  As of Jan 15, climbers have interim access to the staging area in front of The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (GBU). Please note that for a short time we won’t have vehicle access to cross the river to the Valley of the Birds. The second part of the permit is that CASA has been given permission to build a track from GBU to the Malamute Valley, including a bridge and staging areas.  Once the construction work is done climbers will be able to drive across the river in front of GBU to access Valley of the Birds and other climbs to the south.

CASA is now at work arranging the construction of the track.  We will announce the dates for construction soon, because it will impede access for that weekend.  Similarly, once the construction is completed, we’ll announce the details of access including UTM coordinates of the staging areas and a GPS track log of the route.

In the meantime, we ask climbers to respect the current access restrictions (i.e. do not drive further than GBU).  The permit and our continued access is conditional on our communities’ compliance, and it is expected that Alberta’s Sustainable Resource Development will be monitoring the work we are doing in the Ghost.

The seasonal access is valid until March 31, 2010.  After that date the closure point will revert back to Crossing 38.

If you have any questions feel free to contact CASA directly at: chair@climbersaccess.ab.ca.

Source: Climbersaccess.ab.ca

New Petzl Tools

If you could change the Nomic, what would do? That’s easy; add a hammer and a spike. Well Petzl is working on this and the proto types are here.

See photos at Escalade Quebec / Forum

“The tools we are seeing at the show now and out climbing (Ueli Steck and the Petzl web page) are still prototypes. Close but still protos. I found it interesting the even Steck hadn’t seen or used the new tools till just last week.” – Dane

“All the new tools are now taking the older style Nomic picks. But now they are cut to take hammer and adze (the coldthistle hammer and adze are lighter fwiw). All the picks are now T rated as well and with a 3 year guarantee!” – Dane

Source: CascadeClimbers.com / forum

“Check them out and start drooling”  – pcooke

“The thing that attracts me the most, is the Nomic with the hammer…Now you have to carry a third tool for hammering stuff when you climb with those….if they manage to put a spike as well, those tools will see more usage on the mountains…” – farmax

Source: NEice.com / forum

The forum threads:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/935212/gonew/1/OR_show_neat_shit_thread#UNREAD

https://www.neice.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=51302#Post51302

Tents Needed for Haiti Relief

Mark Richey, a past president of the AAC, is helping to organize a collection drive for tents and sleeping bags to send to Haiti to aid the hundreds of thousands (perhaps millions) of people left homeless by the recent earthquake. “Used tents, as long as they are functional, and sleeping bags are fine, and of course new tents and sleeping bags from any of our outdoor industry friends would be ideal,” Richey said. “Since the climate is hot, lightweight sleeping bags are preferable and larger, camping-style tents would be best, but anything will be used.”

Time is of the essence, so equipment should be sent no later than Friday, January 22, to:

Mark Richey Woodworking
40 Parker Street
Newburyport, MA  01950-4056

Read more

Ice Climber Falls 100 feet!

NEWS FLASH!

Colorado ice climber falls 100 feet Tuesday (1/12/10) when  the Fang ice formation in East Vail  Colorado unexpectedly sheared and fell , with the lead climber on the route.

Read more

Amateur Photo Contest

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – Amateur Photo Contest

January 1st to January 31st, 2010

IME-ice-fest-poster4WebShare your adventures, win cool shwagg, and get published with Rock & Ice!

Participants may submit up to 15 photos (taken from January 1st to January 31st, 2010) of Ice Climbing, Alpine Climbing, Mountaineering, Lifestyle, or Mountain Environment. See the full details on the web site.

Visit: http://icefestphotocontest.ning.com

A Final Tribute to Guy Lacelle

Guy Lacelle
1955-2009

I was at a friends house when I got the news. Guy Lacelle has been killed in an avalanche. It hit home hard. I will remember that day forever…..
A Final Tribute

Hyalite Avalanche Fatality-10 December 2009

Doug Chabot of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center investigates the avalanche that killed Guy Lacelle. Guy was in a steep gully on non-technical terrain above the climb Silken Falls (120m…

Guy Lacelle Killed By Avalanche

Guy Lacelle at Festiglace 2005 in Pont Rouge, Quebec. (NEIce.com file photo/Alden Pellett)

Guy Lacelle at Festiglace 2005 in Pont Rouge, Quebec. (NEIce.com file photo/Alden Pellett)

Bozeman, MT –  World-renowned ice climber Guy Lacelle has died from injuries received when a small avalanche, triggered by a  party above him, swept him over an ice climb in Hyalite Canyon where he was participating in the Bozeman Ice Festival.  The loss of Lacelle is felt by many throughout the sport of ice climbing.

Lacelle attended Festiglace at Pont Rouge, Quebec, here in the Northeast for a number of years where he taught more than one eastern climber in the sport and inspired many with his solid climbing in competitions and confident free-solos. He will be sorely missed by all of us at NEice.

For more on the accident: Bozeman Daily Chronicle

Petzl Tribute to Guy Lacelle:Adieu Guy

Avalanche Investigation – Doug Chabot of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center investigates the avalanche that killed Guy Lacelle. Guy was in a steep gully on non-technical terrain above the climb Silken Falls (120m…

Guy Lacelle climbing during the competition at Festiglace in Pont Rouge, 2005.(NEIce file photo/Alden Pellett)

Guy Lacelle climbing during the competition at Festiglace in Pont Rouge, 2005.(NEIce file photo/Alden Pellett)

The Black Dike, Finally!

Canon Cliff, Franconia Notch, NH

December 08, 2009

The Black Dike - Erik Eisele- RAS 12-8-09Erik Eisele leading the 2nd pitch of the Black Dike in lean conditions – December 8th, 2009.
Photo by RAS
 

In normal years the Black Dike usually is fat by now. The first Ascents usually happen in the first week of November. Jim Shimburg has climbed it in early October. This is as late a start as I can remember….Doug

 

Huge Transition Underway

Real Winter Pattern Coming!

All indications point to Major Cold and very stormy weather over the next 15 days

ted_odellsdec-6-09Ted Hammond enjoying the start of this weather change.  Odell’s Gully – Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH  12/06/09
Photo by Alfonzo

All long term and short term indicators (NAO, EPO, EL Nino etc…) have been pointing to cold and stormy (For weeks). Well that is now coming to full realization for Dec to Jan. The last two storms were the beginning of the pattern change. We have one last one (Dec 7/8) to complete the transition and lock the NE into below to well below average temps and a very active storm track as well. Blind fate-Smuggs

What Ice if any survives this weeks storm should rapidly start building by the end of this week into the weekend. (Even in the southern sections to some extent) Next week should only continue to reinforce the ice building.

Blue ice Buldge-smuggsSnow Cover:

Check out the massive and rapid snow cover buildup over the US in just over the last 6 days ( Today –  December 1).  This is why the cold push will be so much stronger over the next 10 days, as the fresh snowpack will help in keeping the arctic air from moderating.

Source: Smike – NEice Weather Outlook

Photos by Rockytop
Blind Fate and Blue Ice Buldge Smugglers Notch VT 12/07/09