First Dates

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First Dates.  We’ve all had them – those initial encounters with someone.  Usually, it’s awkward, you’re trying too hard to look cool, you don’t know if offering to pay for the meal is chivalry or chauvinism, and you have no idea where things are going.  Other times it just clicks and works out perfectly.

Article by Patrick Cooke

Even for those of us not really on the dating bandwagon right now, there are plenty of first dates to be had: new partners, first day out of the season, or just a new crag.  Wednesday was all three for me.

I haven’t had a chance to climb with Erik Eisele, but we’ve been in touch a bunch lately.  He reached out to me when I was asking for beta on the Cathedral Cave, and I’ve found his writing on his blog, Shades of Granite, to be particularly articulate and compelling.  We hatched a plan to meet on Wednesday for a session in the Cave.  We’d meet at 7am since Erik has to work on weekdays, which meant a 5:15 wakeup for me.

7:20 am:  The soft light drapes over me and I’m fully aware of my surroundings. FUCK!  I’m in my bedroom still! Instead of getting my ass kicked by some severely overhanging drytooling, I’m comfortably tucked in a cocoon of warm blankets.  I’m instantly wide awake and give Erik a call to let him know what’s up.  Fortunately, our mutual friend, Ryan, was also on board for the morning session and is capable of correctly setting his alarm.  With Ryan on board, my botching the first date at least didn’t ruin Erik’s day – he sent his long term project, The Mercy.

*****

Meeting a new partner and exploring a new crag was off the table, but there was still the chance to salvage one of the three facets of a first date – the first day out for the season.  With this in mind, I drove over to Crawford Notch in hope of climbing Shoestring Gully.

The exit of Shoestring Gully 12/19/12

Cars were already parked below Shoestring and tracks led down to the river, so I figured there was probably a good way across.  There was, but that didn’t stop me from putting my boot into the river and feeling the water run down into my left sock.  So much for making a good first impression.

To climb Shoestring, regardless of whether it’s your first date or another day in a long relationship, follow these directions: “you park, you walk straight down to the river, you go across the river, then you go straight across the trail, head straight up the gully… then you walk straight up.”  This is good advice.  I, however, having already botched the first impression, proceeded to follow a set of tracks heading up and left despite knowing that really I just needed to head straight up.  Thus my path, instead of looking like a straight arrow, resembled the footprints on one of those annoying Family Circus cartoons.  So much for looking cool.

After an hour(yes an hour, on a climb I did car to car in 90 minutes last year) of wandering, meandering, at times wallowing, and wondering if I was about to make a bushwhack ascent of the mighty Mt. Webster on one of the most meaningless, laughable “taking the tools for a walk” moments in New England mountaineering history, my predecessor in bone-headed self-imposed suffering led me to the base of the climb itself.  Although late, I’d have that first date after all.

Sometimes, even on a first date, you just KNOW

 

 

Never Stay Home – Erik Eisele

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“At 11 a.m. this morning my (non-climbing) plans for the day fell apart. I suddenly had five hours of daylight but no objective or partner. “Perfect,” I thought, “a chance to wrestle with the art of climbing firsthand. An opportunity to forgo a rope in search of focus, to see what I can learn from the experience.

Three hours later and 200 feet off the ground, the ice reared cold and ruthless in my face. One pick felt rattly, the other was surrounded by white, fractured ice. My feet were good, but a bulge forced me off balance “What the fuck am I doing?” I thought as my hands started to ache. “I’m no soloist. This shit will get me killed.”…. Read the rest here

 

Photo: Dracula 12-16-12

Photo: Dracula 12-16-12

Photos and words by Erik Eisele

Harvard Cabin Update – Celebrating 50 Years!

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To The Many Friends of Harvard Cabin,

Seasons Greetings!

The cabin is open for another season.

The cabin has been a busy place this Fall. Beginning in August with a small gathering brought together by Ted Carman, HMC President 1962-1963 and prime mover in the construction of Harvard Cabin, the club began to address a few routine maintenance related issues with the cabin in hopes of keeping it operational for another 50 years! In addition to regular maintenance, the club is also going through several stages of planning, permitting, and fund-raising for some larger maintenance needs along with some major improvements and safety upgrades. Of course, all changes will be subtle as to not disturb the look, feel, and operation of the Harvard Cabin we all know and love.


Renovations…

Having taken much longer then expected this Fall, the renovation of the Caretaker’s Den has kept caretakers from the past and present along with many club members and other volunteers busy for much of the Fall. Situated above the cabin entrance, many of you know the den was a cold, damp and dormant area that had been deteriorating over the last several years. Work began in Mid-August with the demolition of the existing framing, flooring, and insulation (think 30 years of mouse infestation!). Of course, all unusable debris had to find its way downhill and new materials uphill. I lost count of how many trips up the Tux Trail I personally made this Fall, never mind the countless trip made by other volunteers. Whatever the number, Future caretaker’s are in for a real treat thanks to the effort of so many!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qGvYLrl3TPg/UG8LTclUXTI/AAAAAAAAblY/apB9uXr5E7k/s288/Renovation18.jpg    https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SCoDKgpmZCg/ULgdHfmfLHI/AAAAAAAAbw8/ITLqcTvzvKU/s288/PB120194.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w6ZX3z7H7zY/ULgdFr7fr-I/AAAAAAAAbw8/_3dVn9KLRxE/s288/PB110178.jpg

After the demo-work was done, the supporting infrastructure was cleaned, disinfected, sanded, and sealed.. The existing fiberglass insulation was replaced with rigid foam insulation which helped with the elimination of rodent friendly gaps and cracks. We even added a new double-pane window to the loft! There is still a little work to be done before the project is complete, but it would suffice to say that we’re hopeful that we’ll be able to keep the warm air in and the rodents out! Click Herefor some more photos of work being done at the cabin over the last few months!

Once again, It is a great privilege to to be serving as Harvard Cabin Caretaker again this season! Thanks to HMC for having me back for yet another season! I’m looking forward to seeing many of you back at the cabin again this year. We’re setting-up better then we did last year, weather-wise. I am happy to see the persistent signs of the coming winter on the rock pile. Folks have really been getting after the early season ice over the last few weeks. Personally, I’ve been so busy with renovations, I haven’t made it past the cabin yet this season! Surely, that will change in the coming days.

Staying at the cabin…

Finally, I’d like to remind everyone that the Harvard Cabin is a public-use cabin operated by the Harvard Mountaineering Club on a first-come, first-serve basis. Everyone wishing to stay at the cabin must register at Pinkham Notch before heading uphill. The Harvard Cabin Register can be found at the Trail Information Desk at the Visitor Center during business hours and downstairs in the pack-up room after hours. The cabin sleeps 16 people per night. There is also room for 16 additional campers outside at the Harvard Tent Sites. Rates are $15.00 per person, per night inside, $10 per person, per night outside. US Currency Only. Be sure to read ALL instructions when signing-in so that you arrive prepared and able to fully enjoy your time at the cabin!

If you have any questions you can e-mail dbradley@college.harvard.edu or speak to a Trail Information Specialist at Pinkham Notch Visitor Center.

Let’s hope for a safe and snowy season! I look forward to seeing you soon!

 

Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker
Rich@powder-hound.com

NOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and April 1st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org.

The Spirit of Adventure, Franconia Notch

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Cannon, The Common Thread

When most climbers think of the climbing in Franconia Notch, one route immediately comes to the forefront of thought and discussion. This route has earned the reputation, colorful descriptions and epics that it has induced. In 1971 the trumpets were blown signaling the call to arms on this shadow shrouded line before it’s first ascent in December of the same year. Declared as one of the last unclimbed plumbs on the East Coast by the ice master himself, Yvon Chouinard, the reputation had started.  “A black, filthy, horrendous icicle, 600′ high, unclimbed.” To this day, it is still touted as the “measuring stick” of the aspiring climber.  The route is the Black Dike and everyone knows of it. The Dike is surely one of the most aesthetic routes in the Northeast. This climb has developed another purpose for many, that of herald to the on coming ice climbing season. Cannon Cliff is in easy view and dominates the notch. When the ice adorns the cliff’s streaked gray walls high above the notch, it is something truly inspiring and something to behold.

The Ghost & One Drop of Water

Even the most seasoned climber will feel the awe when rounding a corner on the highway. Then right before your eyes appears the line of Omega in full.

Omega

A ribbon colored in a hue of burnt yellow to orange, running from top to bottom. This route will surly get anyone excited regardless if you are aiming to climb it or not.  However, besides Cannon Cliff and the well known Flume Gorge, there are other areas that tend to be over looked. Meanwhile, across the notch up high, lay alpine gems, and they come in early.

 The High Country

Sunset, Mt. Lincoln

Guarding  the East Side of the notch lay a venerable mountain ridge over 400 million years old. The arctic alpine zone along the Franconia Ridge, though not as vast as the Presidential Range, has a unique feeling when one climbing there. A lost emotion is awakened by this place, brimmed with wonderful and wild remoteness. Getting to the routes can be scrappy affairs, visible slides with their huge iced slabs and choked corners, though easy by pure grade, are backcountry climbs and demand respect and commitment.  The wondering that has been instilled in us as we have looked from the comfort of the car far below, can only be realized by way of plunging over deeply forested ridges, eskers and up trail-less drainages.

Franconia Notch

In Franconia Notch, the game is on right from the moment one leaves the car. It does not matter if your destination is to the East or West side. The talus of Cannon, though short can be epic. And the deep climbs on Lincoln & Lafayette are committing. Packed trails are followed for only a short distance.

Woodman / Dorcey, Mt. Lincoln

 

Deep snow on the approach, even for the well prepared can be an exhausting affair. But this is part of the flavor found on these peaks. Getting too the climb, then topping out on the summit is a physical crux and one not to be taken lightly. One other fact that is quite unique to the northeast, these climbs end at the summit of the peaks they are on.

Mt. Lincoln, Serpentine, Throat & Mullet (L to R)

 

Taking the early season plunge into both Lafayette and Lincoln will be a rewarding alpine experience. In  November of this year while Huntington was getting hit by sunny, cloudless days, the Mullet Route on Lincoln with it’s NW aspect was alpine perfection.

The Serpentine Line

 

Lincoln’s Throat

Every year I am lucky enough to experience these mountains with their thought provoking climbing challenges. Clear feelings of awe and purpose are rediscover time after time. Moving through the higher ground of scrub fir and spruce, the journey to and attaining the clean, pristine summits, takes some of the weight of the world away.  The approach to the climbing on Mt. Lafayette is longer and much more of an endeavor than those on Mt. Lincoln. If the weather is not so savory, this location is only for those totally ready to throw down the gauntlet and take the plunge. Suffice is it to say, both mountains require the spirit of adventure.

Roadside Attractions

Across the road from Profile Lake, on the broad flank of Lafayette two excellent climbing areas reside. The steep Ace of Spades with its satellite routes nearby offer difficult climbing after a steep hillside is ascended.

Ace of Spades

A short distance to the South is the old landslide scar of the Big Slide, home of many interesting options. The first landslide to start the creation of this was about 1915. Several others followed with the last being in 1959.  In the center of this slide is Short Stack. This route, followed to the slides top is long and much better than it may appear from the road. Within the slide there are hidden creases that carve into the mountain and run upward over very long distances. Before they fill with snow, these slices, headwalls and open slabs provide fun climbing.  The seldom seen views that end with the climbing, high on Lafayette, will thrill the mind and stir the soul.

High in the Short Stack Area

The Flume and Echo Crag are justifiably popular. They are close to the road and have almost every type of climbing one can desire. The Flume Gorge, deep, narrow and filled to the brim with ice. It’s unique setting coupled with accessible mellow to extreme lines help create a place that has no peers. At the utmost north end of the notch is Echo Crag. Here one will find a fantastic spot for leading, for both new and experienced climbers. The long cliff system has chimneys, corners faces and mixed lines. And also protection options ranging from screws, bolts and passive gear.

The Echo Crag is the northern start of the complex Hounds Hump Ridge. This area has many routes along its western side. Further south up the Hump, near the Eaglet is the home of the Garcia-Vega. A rare to form route, but when climbable, it’s a beauty. The 180′ of climbing is well worth the hike up and right up there with other climbs of the same nature. Also there is a wide chimney to the right on the same wall that is quite hard. I did what I thought had to have been a first ascent of this gash in the early ’90’s. Only to find out later, two very rad guys did it two decades before. With the gear of that time, it must have been savage. Hats off gents for the route, Fire & Ice.

There are still many more climbs and areas worth exploring. My point was not to name them all,  just a few and bring to light the mystery and beauty of the Notch.

I recommend  Secrets of the Notch by Mr. Franconia himself, John Sykes. I’m unsure if this book can still be found, but have heard a new book is coming. Maybe it is out or perhaps I just dreamt it.

 

Cheers and enjoy the Notch.

~Alfonzo

Words & photos,

Alan Cattabriga

Concord NH

 

 

 

 

 

The Black Dike, Early Season by Erik Eisele

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AAC Logo

It begins each year with the first frost. Around the time the calendar flips to October, I find myself sneaking glances at the high peaks forecast and pulling out my screamers. Rock season is still in full swing, but I start calling a few ice partners to sort out schedules. Three days, we tell each other, it only takes three days of freezing temperatures.

The calls go out to limited people — a devoted cadre of climbers with a passion for the unofficial opening act of ice season, the seasonal first ascent of the Black Dike. Ryan Stefiuk, Michael Wejchert, Peter Doucette, Elliot Gaddy — all strong climbers, all solid partners, who become competitors and co-conspirators as we all jockey to be the first to reach the top.

Three days (and more importantly, nights) can transform the rotten, black chimney on Cannon Cliff into the most famous ice climb in the North East, and we all know it. The Dike in early season fully lives up to its reputation. Every member of this team of rivals knows what they are in for. The first pitch will be covered in half-an-inch of ice. An eggshell-like layer covers the rock, and often the only gear is a cam less than halfway up. The next pitch is scratchy chimney climbing with only a handful of ice sticks, all of them thin. Launching off the belay is still the crux, but unlike mid-winter you never get the respite of a buried pick. The third pitch may or may not have enough ice to keep it safe. Some years there won’t be a screw placement on the entire route. Even in good years 10cm is as good as you’ll get.

Every year is a reaffirmation. Thin, terrifying sticks have a reassuring way of letting you know THIS ISN’T SPORT CLIMBING. It is winter again. Time to get ready, ice season is here.

This year the starting gun fired on Election Day. Ryan drove three hours to meet me, and we found eight screw placements, several of them solid. Michael was close on our heels the next day — he soloed and rope-soloed his way to the top before driving to Mount Washington and climbing Damnation. Two days later he and Ryan tried Fafnir but found it lacking.

Last year Peter and I found extremely thin ice days before Halloween. We left the parking lot at 5 a.m. and were back down by 10 a.m. Two days later Elliot and Michael found sections barely frozen in place. Two years ago Ryan and Michael made the first ascent, and a day later the three of us gave Fafnir a try. Four years ago Ryan and I stood atop Cannon first.

This tradition isn’t a race. Any one of us would happily join any other team member for opening day. It’s about extending the season, it’s about sucking the marrow out of winter, and it’s about ticking the Black Dike when its ripe. In October or November the Dike is an alpine nightmare, and climbing it required every ounce of skill and concentration. After a long summer of clipping bolts and whipping out of cracks, mixed climbing above tenuous gear is a wakeup call. The Dike is a cold reminder of why we love the sport, and each year it demands you get your head in the game. There is no option to lower off, no yelling “Take!”

Every one of us will likely climb the Dike later in the season, maybe with a client or friend in tow, but we migrate to Cannon each fall because of what it offers. For one ascent each year the Black Dike represents the outer limits. It is the hardest ice climb in the North East again, if only for a few days. It serves as a reintroduction to the sport, and each year we clamor over each other for the chance to get reacquainted.

If you want to join the team start watching the weather next October. And if things look good make sure to give me a call.

—Erik Eisele, Bartlett, NH

Posted on: November 13th, 2012 by the AAC – New England Section

P.F. Flyer and More!

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The Head Wall – King Ravine

It was a great weekend for ice climbing up on the “Rock Pile”. NEice team members found plenty of early season ice.

Team member Courtney Ley and partner Joel Dashnaw reported thick ice on Pinnacle Gully. Courtney said “it was taking 16cm screws” and the water flow was not bad at all. Look for her photos here.

Lori Crowningshield finda "FAT" ice in Damnation Gully

Lori Crowningshield finds “FAT” ice in Damnation Gully

Team Member Emilie Drinkwater and partner Lori Crowningshield climbed “Damnation” and found good ice also. “It was a little scrappy at the top in the sun”, but very enjoyable and a beautiful day to be in the ravine. On Sunday, Emilie and Jesse did “Shoestring Gully” in Crawford Notch and found it thin but climbable and a little slushy at the top.

Ted Hammond nearing the top of the Mullet slab

Alfonzo and Ted Hammond climbed the Mullet slabs on Mt. Lincoln in Franconia Notch and had a great day out. Look for some of his photos in the photo post section soon.

P.F. Flyer

Google Map

Google Map

Fred Bieber and I headed in to King Ravine to see what we could find. We found plenty of ice and set our eyes on ” P.F. Flyer”. I have always wanted to climb it but the conditions have never been right. Today they were. That side of the ravine never gets sun this time of year so conditions and timing were ripe. It was good to do it before the snow gets too deep. As it was, we were thigh deep in snow at times.

Let’s hope this warm up does not do much damage.

Below are some photos of the climb. Enjoy! (click to enlarge)

Doug Millen

Fred coming up on the lower section

 

The crux of P.F. Flyer

 

Great ice higher up on the climb

Fred topping out on the last bit of ice climbing

 

Defiance in Huntington Ravine

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Odells, Pinnacle Ridge/Gully, Central & Harvard Slabs
11-4-12

The reports were calling for a super storm, another “perfect storm”. A cold front and hurricane combining forces over the mid-Atlantic states. I feel for the folks in NYC, Jersey, anyone that’s had their lives turned inside out by this storm. Here in New Hampshire it was not so bad, for Sandy  collided into the coastline far to south. After the storm abated, the cold air started to flow into New England.  I was sure that by Sunday, there would be ice to climb in the ravine. That’s what I told myself and my friends anyway.  If the weather played out as scripted, visions of perfect new ice danced in my head. However, what is forecasted is not always what one gets. For the more extreme weather scenario prediction is given. Most of my time in the mountains during the early season, no matter how many small animals are sacrificed, I am denied the desired weather. This past Sunday was a no different. Sunny early, though the fog tried its best to defend the delicate ice from the sun’s rays. And temperatures were cold, but not cold enough. But we were determined, by hook and crook we were climbing up a gully, happily dealing with our roll of the dice.

Pinnacle Ridge & Gully

After a pseudo view of Odells, all scrappy looking with water launching out of the fog into our limited view, Yale was the logical choice . It’s water flow is one of the lesser of all the gullies. Moving over the talus along the lower headwall we got a limited look into Pinnacle Gully. Spray was frozen to the walls of rock on ether side and a gushing cascade ran down the middle split by islands of ice.  We joked as to the whereabouts of Rockytop. He was not up there, we figured he was wading up the Black Dike instead.

 Of Yale Gully

Approaching the starting corner (center) Photo-Leaf

With no surprised to any of us, the slab start to Yale was delaminated badly. But there is a corner closer to the Harvard Slabs, up and left and to us, this was climbable.  This section was an exercise in balance and trust. Seventy feet of sketchy tool and foot placements on thin ice and rock running with water. Then an escape guarded by tough rock moves through a bulge with a bottomed-out seam to dry tool. Leaf led up this first and gave us the illusion of  something considerably easier than what was there.

Mike topping out of the first section. Photo-Leaf

Above this we moved back and forth, ether on ice or over semi-frozen ground  until halfway up the headwall. From here to the top,  the soluble ice was followed directly. Being there was four of us, whomever was last had considerably less ice to work with. Somehow, it worked out that Mikeg was that person. Three more portions that required all of one’s attention lurked above.

A slip in any of these areas would have nasty results. But the moves through these sections were brilliant. Yale on this day was no easy gully. The final crease to the lip was beautiful. Frosted rocks with prehistoric looking icicles, hanging down lined the snow dusted gully.

A gusty NW wind pushed us across  the Alpine Gardens to the Lion Head trail. With some sunshine and clouds slowly lifting, the views were wonderful. The day was as good as it could be. And though in a place I’ve  been too uncountable times, it was all new again. A typically easy route had bore it’s teeth and we rolled with it.

The Lion’s Head

 

 

 

~Text and photos , Alan Cattabriga

Thanks to Courtney for her photos and Doug for everything.

The Season of the Witch

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Tricks and Treats

The first ice climb of the season is an eventful day for all of us. As fortune would have it, every year over the last decade, I’ve found good ice in the month of October. And over the last five years I’ve shared this day with my good friend and NEIce founder, Doug Millen.  As autumn starts to wain, areas that are familiar transform to the unusual. The places we know are slowly morphing towards winter as they slip into dormancy. Moving from brown ground and fall foliage, to winter conditions and back in just hours is a wonderful experience. This time of year also offers one of my favorite treats, approaches made over frozen trails in sneakers.
One does not need any special skills to experience this, however a few ingredients need to blend together. Paying attention to the weather, thinking about a given climb’s aspect and water flow. Then lastly, having desire and passion for this equals commitment which can get you to these beautifully surreal places. And if you’re timing is right on,  the first sticks of the season.

There are many advantages to getting out early besides the pure beauty you will find. Climbing freshly formed ice up a long gully not covered by snow is an excellent workout. The benefit for the mind and body and a release of the soul is limitless.  These conditions also offer the perfect opportunity of getting into a rhythm of movement over long distance, a time to find yourself.  Simple gullies become more of a challenge when the ice is thin and there is no snow. Besides reading the ice to find the thickest place to travel, you have to keep your head up and pick the best line far ahead, for down climbing ice is a discipline best practiced in a more controlled environment. And on thin ice that is not an easy task. Another advantage is with your gear. Getting into the packing routine and making sure living room adjustments to the crampons are dialed in before the full on season.

I’ve read elsewhere that early season ice is only for a select few and that it’s not really “in” for it may melt in a few hours. Or that it’s only October. Another comment I’ve been told is it all starts with someone climbing the Black Dike. I find this closed thinking interesting and often ask myself why? If one wants to rock climb as long as you can that’s great.  My train of thought is this, the climbing of rock can happen year round. The season of ice is far to short. There is no need to be negative on early ice conditions or be shackled by the calender.  With the right weather conditions water will freeze. The calender is just like the clock we move forward then fall back. The calender receives days and losses them. It is but another human made measurement of our lives that matters not.

It is a given that every year I’ll have at lest one false start. Theses days out are still worth it for there is always something to prick your interest if you want it. Not finding  ice and climbing the Huntington Ravine trail, through the headwall in unsavory conditions is not a simple hike. Moving through fog over wet and verglas covered rock while the song of Pinnacle Gully in liquid form sings behind will keep your attention.

Lastly, I always know where I’ll go looking for ice long before the freezing takes place, except this year.

 Finding the Lost Dutchman’s Mine

 
The drive had begun. For the next six hours there will be times of intense conversation and also moments of complete silence. In these times the only sound is that of rubber making contact with asphalt. When that time takes over, we all slip into our own private space. In the mean time, there is talk of climbs done and of those to do. But on this day the conversations are not of some faraway area, they are of one place in New England and of one mountain.
 

I fall silent, listening to the excitement in the car. The live human voices are in competition with the recorded sounds coming from the car’s speakers. The voices increase in volume in an unconscious effort to take center stage.  It’s Friday, August 31. Mt. Katahdin is in the rearview mirror and the talk is of coming back for one more rock climb before winter descends on the mountain.

After the usual reentry back to everyday routines and the thermals of the brilliant Pamola 4 route had dissipated a little. It was time to book another trip back to Baxter State Park. I picked the second weekend in October. A time when the first ice of the season, under the right circumstances, can be found here in New Hampshire. Doug and I knew we would climb ice soon, but figure it would be on Mt.Washington or Adams… not Katahdin.

Seven days before our departure, the forecast in northeast looked promising for ice. The NEIce weather guru, Smike was predicting   an ascent of Pinnacle Gully. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday was calling for overcast skies, snow flurries with temperatures in the low twenties. But for us, the coup de grace on climbing rock and the finding of ice came with this. Clearing Friday night, winds ramping up and temperatures bottoming out in the teens. Doug and I spoke the day before we left. The rock gear would still come with us to Roaring Brook, however our packs were made ready with ice gear even before we left our homes.

Roaring Brook

We arrived late Friday to snow flurries.  I was up Saturday at 5am. The predawn was cold, clear and the stars were shinning bright.  By 6:30 we were on the trail chipping away at the 3+ miles to Chimney Pond and the dramatic walls of the South Basin. The minuscule shadow of doubt that lingered unspoken of, in darkest corners of our minds evaporated with each mile. The trail conditions were frozen ground with patches of hard ice. The decision was right and our commitment to finding ice was about to be realized.

The North Basin

The first view of the South Basin comes before Chimney Pond. It was here where Doug and I were greeted with the sight of the incredibly beautiful Cilley-Barber route. This line of ice sliced like a silver sword through the dark headwall, then on up into the cloud mantle that hung anchored to Katahdin’s summits. Though the climbing had yet to come, we shook hands like we had just accomplished something big, for in a strange way we had. The walls were shinning with ice on all the routes and from the ranger station we decided on our line. After telling Mark, the ranger on duty our plan and feeling his enthusiasm we were boulder hopping along the edge of Chimney Pond as fast as we could.
 

We emerged from the Cilley-Barber drainage and on to the talus proper, here we switched from sneakers to our climbing boots. There was now a few inches of snow on the rocks and alders.  Our intended route was in complete view, the ice went for hundreds of feet up huge slabs to a talus break.

The Cilley-Barber

 
 

Start of Piggy-Wiggy

Above the talus the flow dropped into a corner, over steeper ground. Next was mixed, tricky terrain that eased off to snow, scrub and huge boulders.  The Piggy-Wiggy would go all the way to the Cathedral Ridge. The gold mine of the Lost Dutchman was found.

Doug on mixed ground near the top

Back at the Chimney Pond Ranger Station we chatted with Mark. He was psyched for us. A change back to the tennies and we were off. Light footed and higher then Hendrix, we practically ran back to camp. Doug and I had threaded the weather needle. Sunday night it snowed and we woke to several inches,  the temperatures were also on the rise. Like thinking, being prepared, the willingness to adapt and take a chance gave us the best first ice of our season of our lives.

 

Photos and text by Alan Cattabriga

With help (as usual) from Doug Millen

Early Season Luck On Katahdin

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Game ON!

Condition Report – October 13, 2012
Mt Katahdin, Baxter State Park, Maine

Alfonzo enjoying great early season ice on "Piggy-Wiggy", Katahdin, ME

Alfonzo enjoying great early season ice on “Piggy-Wiggy”, Katahdin, ME  10-13-2012

You never know when it will happen….so be ready!

And we were!

Alfonzo made reservations at the Roaring Brook campsite over a month ago knowing it is hard to get campsites over consecutive days this time of year. We were planning to rock climb, but with the forecast calling for cold weather, the ice tools were packed along with the rock gear. You never know when you might need your ice tools.

We arrived Friday night to light snow showers. Rock climbing still seemed possible to some with the forecast . Our friends Mike & Cassy packed for the Armadillo. Alfonzo and I packed for ice. We had a good feeling about the conditions leading up to Saturday.  And with the forecast calling for low teens at 4000′ overnight we committed to ice climbing and packed light to move fast.

We were greeted with clear sky’s and temps in the 20’s Saturday morning. As we walked up the trail, the ground became more frozen and signs of solid ice were everywhere…our pace quickened for we knew climbable ice would be found.

As we walked into the Chimney pond area, the grandness of the South Basin with a winter look welcomed us. There was ice everywhere. Better than we expected and better than last years trip in early December. And the Cilley-Barber was in! All the planets had aligned. With pure luck we had impeccable timing, creating the perfect early season situation.

After checking in with Mark the ranger at chimney pond we headed UP! We chose the biggest moderate line we could see. This was the start of the “Chauvin-Cole” route up to “Piggy-Wiggy” and then to the ridge. The gift of early season ice was given again, for in the winter most of this climb would be a snow slog. We had water ice, tail to tip.

We climbed about 1500 ft of good and sometimes challenging water ice on a spectacular day. This was the best early season ice I have ever climbed. We were so lucky!

Many thanks to Baxter State Park,  a great park with excellent hospitality. And special thanks to Ranger Rob and Mark for being so excited about early season ice climbing.

~ Doug Millen

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Photos by Doug Millen & Alan Cattabriga

 

Early Season Ice is Approaching!

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The time is almost here!  The days are getting shorter and the air colder.  Snow has already fallen on the higher summits.  The motivated, and perhaps overly-positive, climbers will be getting out very soon in hopes of taking their first swings into freshly formed ice.   Some will luck out and find themselves at the right place at the right time.  How can you increase your chances of finding early season ice?  Here’s a few places that have seen ice form in late Fall.

Photos of Early Season Ice

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So wake up before the sun rises and call in sick to work… Get into shaded ravines and gullies and check them out.  You never know what you might find, and all your friends who laugh at you when you tell them you are going ice climbing in October will be jealous when you get some!

 

An October Ascent of the Black Dike

by Doug Millen

This was my obsession for years. I spent many days waiting and plotting for the right moment. Many times going only to find nothing, or being repelled from the climb. But after 5 years of trying, it happened! And it was less hazardous and more enjoyable than all the other attempts. We found good, well-bonded ice, and everything was frozen together (for awhile anyway). We nailed it on October 20th.  But,  by the time we topped out, it was all falling apart. The warm sun greeted us for the walk down. Timing and persistence made it happen and my quest was complete!

Early season on the Black Dike is not for the faint of heart. It is R and X climbing with everything coming apart. Loose rock that is normally frozen together become portable hand holds.  The ice has water running under it and is not bonded to the rock. You put in protection and it comes out with the first test pull; screws are useless. My favorite pieces of gear for the route were Spectres. Some years the easy first pitch is the crux! Each pitch is different early season and each one has been the crux for me on my attempts. The rock traverse is easy compared to the rest of the climb in the early season. The spot I hate the most!? It’s when you finish the traverse, climb thin ice to a rock slab, have no gear and scratchy feet and a hard move to get into the chimney. You buy it here and you’re going for a long ride.

I have heard that Jim Shimberg got it one year on October 8th. It was colder back then, I think. It has been coming in very late the last few years. The Black Dike’s first ascent is the unofficial start of the the ice climbing season. When will it go down this year?

What I learned? Be patient, watch the weather, know the climb, know the area, and don’t be afraid to take the tools for a walk! And above all, be safe and climb smart. It’s not worth risking your life for an October ascent.

 

For some more early-season stoke and thoughts on climbing well before Smike’s official start to winter, see these articles on early season ice…

Is This Ice Climbing?

Pinnacle Gully 11/05/11

Game On!

False Start…

Rhythm of the Seasons – Part Two