Max Neale just returned from a trip to Katahdin. Here are some photos Max took during his climb, Zebediah Engberg climbing.
Ciley Barber 12-18-11
Well it looks like winter is here, finally!
Things are starting to form nicely on Cannon Cliff. The shortest days are just around the corner and the weather is slowly getting colder. Looks good! …lets hope it does not melt away.
Erik Eisele shared some photos from his weekend ascent of “Fafnir”, Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch NH. Conditions look great! Enjoy!
Well, Ladies and Gentlemen, it seems that Mother Nature and Jack Frost have a lot to sort out these days. Just as things start to appear green and spring-like again, old man Jack decides to sprinkle just a little bit of his seasonal specialty across the mountain. Not too much, not too little, but just enough to give the ever so subtle impression that winter is looming. No sooner, the old maid decides to make her rounds and sweep-up in an attempt to keep her grip on the lush, spring-like forest. A slight exaggeration, maybe? But, really, When will this power struggle be resolved???I’ve stopped thinking about snow at this point, we can’t even seem to get two consecutive days of temperatures conducive to ice formation. For example, last Sunday, I spent most of a frigid, got-to-keep-moving day in Tuckerman Ravine on and around The Open Book. The ice was in, it was young, it was soft, and it was promising. I returned with a partner on Monday hoping to gain access to the steeper ice on the headwall in an attempt to finally enjoy a day of true alpine ice in Tuckerman Ravine. In a normal year, the ice season in Tux is somewhat short-lived. There is usually only a few days of high quality, fun, curtain-to-curtain ice climbing in Tux before it is all buried by snow. Timing is everything and I’ve been determined not to miss the choose-your-own-pillar adventure in Tux this season. I’ve been ready and waiting for those magical few days. While it’s normally come and gone by now, still I wait.
Variable Conditions, Peeks and Valleys
Having enjoyed the coldest day of this Fall on Sunday, I was able to set my first V-Thread of the season and rappel down to the base of the Open Book. Happy to return to the cabin, I set fire to the wood stove and, much to my disappointment, watched the temperature OUTSIDE exceed the freezing mark. Returning to Tux on Monday morning in what was very near T-Shirt weather, my climbing partner and I decided it wasn’t even worth setting screws. We enjoyed the thickest ice down low. Nearly bomber only a dozen hours earlier, it was now significantly thinner, detaching, with much more running water behind it. We climbed high and fast, hoping to gain access to the large ice formations in the center of the Headwall. However, the snow quickly turned to mashed potatoes, with tear drop, point releases of snow above the Sluice (south facing aspect), and abundant ice fall, we decided to bail onto the Tuckerman Ravine Trail high-up on the headwall. Making the most of our day, we rock-hopped up and over the Alpine Garden and were able to enjoy some astounding views while standing on the summit of Mount Washington. Warm and wind-less, it was Mid-December in the high-peaks of New Hampshire and layers were coming off like it was a day to work on that good ol’ New England Farmers-Tan. Thanks to a group from the Dartmouth Outing Club, what would have been a rather mundane and somewhat depressingly warm summit day, proved to be very worthwhile and memorable, indeed!
On Tuesday, it was time to check out conditions in Huntington Ravine. I wish I had better news to report, but the ravine is looking rather summer like. While the approach and top-out resemble early fall conditions, there is some decent ice in Odell’s. If nothing more, at least you’ll stay mostly dry. I can’t say as much for Pinnacle, though it was been climbed more then a few times in the past week. Yale slabs are looking sketchy. As of yesterday, I could envision a catastrophic collapse of the entire slab. I’m not saying that is likely, but it is something to think about. In any case, there isn’t much ice above the slab. Harvard Bulge remains tempting but equally suspect. I did confirm a party climbed it on Monday, but it is definitely sun-baked, metamorphosized ice at this point. As for the north side of the Ravine, from the top of Odell’s I could see that there is some continuous ice in the middle of Damnation and North gullies, but it is bone dry leading up to and above these sections. Not really making them attractive objectives at this point.
Snow and Ice is coming….
I don’t mean to fill your inbox with Doom and Gloom. I am actually very excited for the impending season. However late, Winter will arrive soon and Harvard Cabin is the place to be. The cabin was full inside this past weekend with and additional 6 teams camped outside! As always, Harvard Cabin provided a perfect setting for climbers to gather and celebrate a new season. This past weekend stands to prove that there is ice to be climbed. That being said, a trip to the summit and a night at Harvard Cabin isn’t too tall a price to pay even if ideal conditions do not prevail. There isn’t any ice in the valley and it’s too cold and wet for most rock climbing, so you might as well take the gear for a walk and spend a day or two on the Rock Pile! I’d love to see you!
We are expecting some snow accumulation over the next couple of days. The mercury isn’t going to respond like we’d all like to see, but it is going to be quite windy over the weekend. The forecast is calling for clear and windy conditions. This will definitely transport snow, bringing you anxious skiers closer to some of the first turns on the rock-pile this season. I should mention there are some nice patches of snow high up on the summit cone, just below the fuel farm, in what is known as the Eastern Snow Fields. The snow has remained soft and fluffy since it fell last week. I did sight a skier in the snow fields on Monday. I’m fairly certain it was a Mount Washington Observatory employee as it would be a long walk for a few linked turns, but if you are feeling desperate, they’d be quality, nonetheless.
A Word from the USFS Snow Rangers….
The Snow Rangers have returned to the higher elevations! No doubt, they’ve made good use of their time giving the lack of winter conditions on the rock-pile this December. The post-Irene forest has kept the Rangers very busy in other parts of the White Mountain National Forest. While the Rangers are winter fanatics, they are also skilled foresters and administrators. Their expertise is wide and varied and their value and contributions extend far beyond snow-filled ravines. While they have been busy elsewere, they certainly kept on eye on conditions and activity in the Cutler River Drainage. I was excited to learn that there were Rangers in the ravines on Tuesday. What better indication that the mountain is changing seasons, if only little by little. Following their assessment of current conditions on Tuesday, the Forest Service hasn’t posted an sort of advisory yet, but they Rangers shared their findings in a conditions update available at http://www.
Mount Washington Ice Fest 2012
The Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2012 promotional materials have gone to press! If you look closely, included in the amazing list of sponsors, you’ll see the Harvard Mountaineering Club Logo. As I mentioned last week, the club is proud to be among a group of non-profits helping to sponsor Ice Fest this year. Our goal is to help promote safety in and around the Ravines by making sure that all climbers, newbies and veterans, are aware of the cabins location, function, and purpose. It is a great resource for all mountain travelers, not only guests. We are hoping to overcome any confusion about the cabin or misgivings that currently exist. Ice Fest is going to be a blast and HMC is excited to be a part of it! If you haven’t seen the poster, you can check it out by Clicking Here! You’ll also find recent photos from the Ravines featuring Ragged Mountain Equipment Gear Expert and Alpine Super Model, Max Lurie.
That’s all for now folks. Wish I had more exciting news. In any event, I’m hoping for another crowded weekend at the cabin. Stay motivated people, be patient, and stay safe….it’s coming!!!
It’s mid-December and things are still looking like it’s early November. Nevertheless, there IS some ice to climb out there! People are finding ice up on Mt. Washington and Mt. Webster, the Dike was climbed again, and there was ice to climb on the North Face of Pitchoff this weekend.
I managed to finally get out and swing the tools on Sunday, making a run up Shoestring Gully. It was not your typical Shoestring experience, but it was IN! (Maybe not In enough to make the roadside report, but it was in enough for Matt, Chris, and I, motivated by the fact that we’re soft and didn’t want to get up at 4 just to live the human popsicle experience on Washington, to try!).
Bodyweight supported fully by ice - Matt demonstrating this new fangled "ice climbing" thing.
Chris and Matt exiting off of "thick water" into the snow and turf - typical early season mixed climbing!
It was boney and thin, with parts of it better resembling “thick water” than nice hard ice, but it sure was nice to swing the tools. Granted, I think Matt is actually out right now shopping for new picks as a result of our adventures, but I think it as worth it!
Matt looking like a pro while I have an ADD moment...
Hopefully the gradually dropping temperatures will result in more options and a return of ice to the lower elevations. Until then, we’ll just have to celebrate the small victories!
Article by Patrick CookeSeasons Greetings Mountaineers,
It’s our favorite time of year again! Winter is right around the corner and that means everyone is looking forward to another fantastic season at Harvard Cabin!
I spent the last couple of weeks out west enjoying some wonderful early season winter conditions in the Rocky Mountains. A late Fall trip to Colorado wouldn’t be complete without beautiful dawn patrol ski tours leading to picture perfect powdery ski lines. Earning turns is the perfect way to get ready for another season on Mount Washington! Not to mention some fantastic alpine rock and ice! So much good road-side ice to be had…..who would ever think of trekking into the backcountry??? Just kidding!
I did do fair amount of traveling since closing the cabin last season. From Quebec’s beautiful Gaspé Peninsula to the jagged peaks of The Tetons and down to the amazing razorback formations at Seneca Rocks, I ran into familiar faces from Harvard Cabin everywhere I seemed to drag a rope! Proof-positive that the Harvard Cabin guest is hard-core and ready-to-send, no matter what time of year! You all inspire me!
Cream Puffs and Harvard Cabin
I was able to put Harvard Cabin in a public spotlight for a little while this Fall. I did some volunteering with The Granite State Ambassadors at The Big E, the largest fair in the northeast. For over 90 years, the Eastern States Exposition has showcased the six New England States. Included in the 175 acres of fairground, you’ll find the famous Avenue of States, home to a replica of each original New England State House. Inside each building, you’ll find plenty of food, crafts, products, and tourism info pertaining to each state. Besides the Blueberry Pie and Ice Cream, Mount Washington is always a New Hampshire highlight. It was fun being part of the fair and sharing Harvard Cabin with hundreds of fair-goers from all around New England and beyond.
Current Conditions
I should stop rambling and skip to the chase -current conditions on The Rock Pile. After an amazing pump-fake over Halloween weekend we were left to wonder if it was a Trick or Treat. Well, at this point it sure seems like it was a big, mean Trick! The mountains have pretty much returned to late fall conditions. As I’m sure you are aware, all the early season ice is basically gone. Snow is even hard to find following a winter storm that occurred only last week! Sure, we’ve all been treated to an extra long rock season, but this is getting ridiculous! Fortunately, the weather does seem to finally be trending in the right direction, though we remain well above seasonal temps. Keep your fingers crossed that we keep trending towards the negative temps!
It hard to believe I was able to sink my tools into some decent ice at way back in October as I picked my way up Yale Gully, a promising start to the season. I mention this now only because at the top out, I found plenty of potential for above average rock fall as a result of erosion caused by Hurricane Irene. I’m hoping this latest warm spell helps to further settle the gullies before our regularly scheduled mid-winter thaw. There sure seemed to be a lot of loose debris that needed to come down. I’d expect to see lots of new debris in The Fan until things really get locked into place for the winter. We may want to be a little more mindful of rock fall potential in Huntington this season. As always, be sure to limit your exposure from above and keep climbers below in mind as your make your way towards the top-outs.
Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – February 3-5, 2012
We’ve got another exciting season on tap. One bit of super exciting news is that Harvard Mountaineering Club has become an official sponsor of the 2012 Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival set to go off on February 3rd, 2012. HMC is proud to sponsor such an awesome event and is thankful for the opportunity to promote Harvard Cabin and its role in aiding public safety on Mount Washington each winter.
As usual, Ice Fest will include many participants. Everyone, from the newest of climbers to salty veterans, can enjoy the amazing list of sponsors, gear demos, and clinics run by some of the top pro climbers in the World. Guest Guides this year will include the likes of Freddie Wilkinson, Janet Bergman, Emilie Drinkwater, Matt McCormick, and others. This years Keynote speaker is none other then the legendary Will Gadd! Get psyched, there will be tons of prizes, plenty of swag, awesome clinics, and live music! Stay-tuned for more information on HMC’s participation. As the time grows nearer, keep an eye on http://icefest.blogspot.com for more details and a complete schedule.
Facebook & NEice.com
We’ve been more focused on skiing and climbing the last few seasons, but we’ve finally started a Harvard Cabin Facebook Fan Page. (Click Here) . I’ll be adding content and information in the coming weeks. Until then, just press “Like” and tell your “Friends” to do the same.
Also, from time to time this season, I will be contributing content to Doug Millen who maintains the popular website, NEice.com. Stories will focus mostly on cabin life, but I’ll be sure to try and sneak-in a few paragraphs regarding an epic ski line or two. Come on now, it wouldn’t be New England Ice if we weren’t skiing on it too!!!
Harvard Cabin Trail Sign
I met with the Forest Service/Snow Rangers on Monday afternoon to review the Winter Operating Plan. As usual, the meeting was informative and a helpful in getting into my winter routine of helping to promote safety on the mountain. Once again, I was left humbled by the level of readiness and the 100% commitment to safety and excellence displayed by the Snow Rangers. Consistent with those values, the Forest Service has agreed to place a trail sign at the intersection of the Tuckerman Ravine Trail and the Fire Road. The sign will point travelers in the direction of the cabin and make the fire road a more recognizable reference point for everyone. This will no doubt, create better awareness of the cabin, thus increasing safety. Even better, It will surely help prevent more then a few late night travelers from missing the fire road and accidentally spending a cold night at Hermit Lake.
Opening Weekend….Get to Harvard Cabin!
I’ve received a few e-mails and phone calls over this week. Seems like we’ll have a handful of guests at the cabin for opening weekend 2011/12. I hope you’ll be there too!
Well, I really need to be heading up the trail again. Supply Load #1 as been delivered to the cabin. I have about 5 more to go before the weekend is over. I promise all of my updates won’t be such great works of shameless self-promotion. It’s been a long summer, so you’ll have to forgive me this time. I look forward to seeing you soon! Stay safe and THINK SNOW!!!
It seems like every year I find myself in the same position -I’m ready for the season to start, but that perfect alignment of weather, work, partners, and family commitments just isn’t quite right. Working at a boarding school, I am fortunate to have the full week off for Thanksgiving. With Doug and Alfonzo setting the bar so high in terms of making the most of the early season ice, I figured it was time to atone for my early season sins and get up north.
First and Ten…
Whereas I had no partner lined up for my aborted adventure on Mt. Lincoln, I found a willing partner for a romp up to Huntington Ravine on Tuesday. In addition to Doug and Alfonzo, some other NEice denizens managed to find some climbable lines in the few days before my break began, so it seemed like there would be hope. At the very least, neither of us had ever been up to Huntington, so we figured it would be a nice hike.
With my partner coming from VT and unable to do a particularly early start (something about grad school and a group project the night before…), we were heading up around 7:00am and were at the base of Pinnacle by around 9:00.
We weren’t the first ones into the Ravine, but what we saw wasn’t promising: two climbers trying to scratch their way up something between Pinnacle and Central, only for the leader to lower off of some shrubbery about 20′ up. Part of the game with chasing ice this early in the season is avoiding the sun at all costs. Odell’s looked climbable, but also like it might disintegrate under a climber’s weight. As my buddy said, “I’ve seen better ice in my freezer!”
Undeterred, our 2 new friends from Quebec set forth for the top of the ravine via a contrived line of bushwhacking somewhere to the right of Central. Knowing I had the weekend after Thanksgiving (and a forecast with colder temperatures), I opted to call it a day of taking the tools for a walk and headed back to Pinkham.
False Start… 5 yard penalty, repeat first down -First and fifteen!
By Thursday evening, I had successfully relocated myself from the holiday’s festivities in southern CT to basecamp for the coming days in northern NH. I was primed and had the alarm set for 3am, at least until I saw Leaf’s conditions report from that day:
“For the conditions report, I will write a series of haikus. The title is: HEIN
Broke trail into Hunts/ It wasn’t too bad at all/Until the talus
Snow on huge boulders/ Waiting to twist and swallow /Unsuspecting legs
Rotten and hollow /A waterfall underneath /That describes the ice
Would have been pleasant/ If the wind wasn’t hallowing/ Gusts maybe 80
Goggles, face mask on/ Then the snow above the ice/ Waist deep swimming – hmm
Snow slide potential?/ Gained the ridge between gullies/ That wasn’t easy either
Finally the Garden/ Beautiful undercast seen/ There was a rainbow
Whew, I’m exhausted/ Happy Thanksgiving to all/ Please pass the turkey”
Leaf’s reward after a hard climb
Now, although I have never met Leaf, I’ve seen her contributions on this site enough to know that if she found it sketchy, I wasn’t going to find it any better the next day. Foiled again!
False Start… 5 yard penalty, repeat first down – First and Twenty!
Nevertheless, I managed a fun day of cross country skiing on Friday with my family, while Doug and Alfonzo also managed some non-vertical fun in the mountains. The ice may be fickle, but it’s good to remember that there are other worthwhile pursuits than chasing cascades of frozen water.
My quest for early season ice in November has sadly come to a close. Temperatures finally seem to be moving in the right direction, so perhaps this weekend will offer up some fun frozen treats for those of you who are able to get out. Although working at a boarding school gives me some pretty sweet breaks, this weekend I’ll be experiencing the double-edged nature of my work -weekend dorm duty.
Give it a week or so, though, and I’ll be back out there.
First and Twenty… totally doable!
It’s been a busy few weeks, but the essays are graded, the exams are printed, and there’s time to relax and think about ice climbing again. In Part One, you learned about my affinity for seasonal beverages and my one-track mind when it comes to the off-season. In Part Two, I got all “dippy and philosophical” while nerding out about literature and No Man’s Land. Ultimately, though, what it’s all building towards is a simple fact:
Sure, by the time December rolls around (and surely by January, February, and March), winter is not coming, but instead is hopefully upon us. But the giant dork in me can’t resist the Game of Thrones reference, and we’re still enjoying daytime temperatures in the mid-60s this week in Boston. If our NEice meteorologist in residence, Smike, is to be trusted we need not worry: Winter is Coming.
As we adjust to the increasingly early sunsets, seeing our breath in the air, and digging out our cars, there’s a looming sense of adventure about the months ahead. What kind of winter will this be? Will PowerPlay and Big Brother be locked up again this year? Will Poko be off the hook again, or will Cathedral, Willoughby, or Smuggs see conditions so fat that even this guy can climb classic test-pieces? Can Joe Szot be unseated as the undisputed champion of the world when it comes to rollies?
Each year, the winter’s water cycle is largely determined by what happens throughout the fall.
This year, Hurricane Irene rudely knocked on our doors, not only soaking the northeast but also potentially rearranging water flow patterns throughout the region. The Trap Dike has a new exit out onto the slabs. Cascade, Wright, and Saddleback all have new slides that may yield new winter alpine routes. There is significant potential for new routes and variations hiding in familiar locations, while there are also new opportunities to be had for those willing to go beyond the beaten path.
Amid all the uncertainty that awaits us each season, there are still certain facts of life that are givens. By early December, most of the climbers in the northeast will be chomping at the bit to get their first sticks of the season. How early one sates this hunger will often be directly correlated to how bold a climber he or she is. Last year, I managed to get out and climb the Trap Dike the week before Thanksgiving, opting for the greater likelihood of climbable ice at higher elevations rather than the potential to scratch my way up something at the North Face of Pitchoff. Sure, I could have ended up taking the tools for a long walk, but at the very least I would have a good day in the mountains. As it turned out, we found wicked fun conditions on the waterfalls and perfect neve up the slabs. That same day, people found ice to climb at NFOP. Was it fat? No. Did it take screws? Sort of. Did they have fun? Absolutely!
Typical EARLY season conditions at NFOP – Rowdy Dowdy on Screw and Climbaxe (11/21/10) – photo by Rockytop
As the season ramps up, there are certain climbs and venues we can look to each and every season. In the Daks, the North Face of Pitchoff and Chapel Pond Canyon are sure bets. Full of moderate lines, these areas have routes that may not be considered “classic”, but offer a little bit of something for everyone. Fans of long moderate lines can enjoy a day out on Weeping Winds or Screw and Climbaxe. Those looking to push themselves on harder grades may not find the steep pillars and curtains of Poko or the Lake, but can link up many routes into a good long day: At NFOP, try linking up Central Pillar (to the top!), Arm and Hammer, Tendonitis, Weeping Winds, and Screw and Climbaxe; at the Pond, Crystal Ice tower/White Line Fever, Lions on the Beach, Hot Shot, Ice Slot, Positive Reinforcement, and Haggis and Cold Toast make for a good long day. At Smuggs, you’ll find plenty of ice early in the season, and linking routes will give you a hell of a leg workout! At Frankenstein, you can try to get up early and beat the Standard Route conga line (can you find all 12 climbers?), hook and torque your way up the Pegasus rock finish, and probably even take a lap on Dracula if you’re looking for a little bit more spice.
If you feel like you’ve “climbed out” your usual haunts, early season options may be the perfect remedy. That fat 3+ or 4- that you’ve climbed 200 times may be a different beast early in the season. Stubbies, spectres, and and a couple of stoppers instead of an endless line of 16s may mean the difference between just another lap on “the hardman’s warmup” and a personal first ascent of “the hardman’s ego-check.”
Come my winter break (end of December), I generally feel that there’s no question as to what season it is: sending season. Sure, there’s those pesky family commitments involving stuffing your face with delicious food and the mandatory Christmas eve whiskey (if you don’t already have this tradition, I HIGHLY recommend it!), but my main thought is about getting out and getting after it. Last winter, the stars aligned perfectly: I’d never done Dracula, Welcome to the Machine was in, and Fang was so fat it could easily have been mistaken for Standard Route. It was looking like it would be a great day! We’d have to move quickly as a party of three, but we were ambitious.
Dracula was great, except for one thing… apparently those toe bails that keep your crampons on your boots are not indestructable!
When you break a crampon on lead, sometimes you end up with amusing photo opportunities like this… tools left for comic effect!
Yep, 20 feet up on lead and for whatever reason, I can’t get good sticks with my right foot. Look down… “#$%&!!!!!!!!!!!” There’s my crampon, dangling from the strap around my ankle with a busted toe bail. I had just placed a screw with a screamer, so I placed another and lowered off… As a single pitch climb, I knew we’d be able to make things work, but WTTM and Fang were out of the picture. Regardless, sending season had begun! With my unbroken mono-point on the left foot, my buddy’s dual points on the right, and a second set of tools, I was off again, enjoying superb sticks and even placing more than 3 screws (actually, a lot more)!
Every winter presents the opportunity for climbing new routes. Even lines you’ve done before can form in new ways. That’s part of the beauty of ice climbing. Sure, sometimes different climbs can feel the same, but some days the same climb can be a totally different beast from a previous ascent. If you’ve already climbed the Gent, that doesn’t mean you should’t go do it again. Tackle the direct start, climb the steeper pillar left of the groove on the crux pitch, or head way right at the top. It all may be the same climb in the guidebook, but each and every ascent will be a new experience.
One of the beauties of living in the Northeast is how close we are to so many great ice climbing venues. If you’re only climbing in one place all winter, you’re missing out. Venture out and check out what other people get to experience as their home crag. If you have some vacation time, why not make a road trip around the Northeast? In 5 days you can easily link Cannon, Willoughby, Smuggs, Poko, and the Catskills into one epic adventure. Limited to weekends? No problem, shoot for a different venue each time you get out. Even in one region you can easily have a diversity of climbing experiences. Here are a few ideas to get the creative juices flowing:
Catskills: Day one – Buttermilk Falls (be sure to hit the mixed cragging to the right of tier #3). Day two: Black Chasm
Daks: Day one: Avalanche Lake. Day two: Poko
VT: Day one: Smuggs, Day two: Willoughby
NH: Day one: Cathedral or Frankenstein. Day two: Mt. Webster
CT/MA/Other locations: Drive north and don’t feel limited by the local offerings!
With so many options in the Northeast, you should never get bored.
Ice season is undoubtedly the best time of year, but there is one dreaded element that seems to hit every year – the midseason thaw. Last year, this hit on New Year’s Day (the day after the photo above was taken), making the ice in the Catskills entirely unclimbable. A few years ago, the thaw coincided with Mountainfest and resulted in several cancelled clinics. While we hope that this doesn’t happen this winter, don’t despair – at the very least it will help heal the ice and return a hooked-out classic back to its proper form!
As the calendar pages flip and the days get longer, our options begin to change. Willoughby, Poko, and other predominantly south-facing crags begin to melt away. At the lower elevations, those early season options often linger and remain our best bet. Every year, Dracula seems to hang in there in its black cave, much like the bat its namesake emulated.
With such long days, the late season is prime time for long routes in the mountains. In the Daks, Joe Szot laid down the gauntlet completing the “Adirondack Trilogy” of Gothics, Marcy, and Colden in a day, Emilie Drinkwater completed her own version of the Trilogy, and Alfonzo created the “Trifecta” of Pinnacle, Shoestring, and the Throat in the Whites. Countless other opportunities exist for those with more modest ambitions as well. Long days of linking up gullies await you in Huntington Ravine, and Katahdin hosts countless alpine routes in as remote a setting you can find in the Northeast.
Katahdin’s South Basin from Chimney Pond – Photo by AOC
It may have been 62 and partly cloudy in Boston yesterday, but don’t worry, Winter is coming!
Is this just a dream?
Earlier this month, NEice staff meteorologist, Smike, hedged his bets and gave a gloomy November forecast for ice aficionados: “Warm temps with a short bout of cold over the next 15 days. (Go grab some extra rock time) End of the month will crash into winter and it should hang on this time.”
Recent evidence, however, suggests that he has not given us the whole story.
Article by Patrick CookeAt first glance, Smike’s work looks like the work of a professional: it’s populated by maps and graphs, and includes fancy weather-related initialisms like NAO, MJO, and NKVD (what can I say, the guy has some scary connections). Furthermore, he can use the term “Bermuda High” without arousing the suspicions of a police K-9 unit.
Despite his professional reputation, Smike’s recent actions call his veracity into question. On facebook Smike posted “Has anyone seen my winter around here?”. Shouldn’t Smike know that he didn’t predict winter weather this early in November, or is he holding back on a darker truth that lies around the corner? We take it for granted that winter will come eventually, but how far off is eventually?
Smike did not do himself any favors when this reporter contacted him about his prediction: The meteorologist’s first words were “What my FAIL on weather?” – hardly the words we hoped to hear. With the qualifications of our own in-house expert called into question, we were forced to seek outside counsel to get to the heart of the issue.
Sitting back on a folding chair on a beach in the Virgin Islands while sipping daiquiris, this is not the Jack Frost you know and love. He looks haggard and run down, a man beaten down by his own biting winds. His take on Smike’s forecast?
We're all hoping for something better than this!
“What do you want? I give you snow in October and all I hear is whining about it being too early, I didn’t get to send my 5.12 yet, I can’t find my ice scraper… nothing but bitch, bitch, bitch. You know what, I like it here, so fetch me another drink and then sod off!” (who knew Jack Frost was a Brit?)
Undeterred, this reporter continued to push Frost about when we could expect his return to the Northeast. Unfortunately, Frost’s comments were not fit to print.
For fear of angering this guy (Jack Frost, not Mrs. Claus), Kris Kringle declined to comment for this story
“Yeah so, I make this @#$% up. Put a Young’s Double Chocolate Stout in front of me and I’ll say whatever you want!” * Smike graciously agreed to speak again after the failed interview with Jack Frost. A disgustingly rich malt beverage in hand, he was much more forthright about his methodology when it comes to the science of predicting weather patterns: “You know, the guys on TV look at the facts and are right only about half the time. Does anyone call them out? No. You figure I do this for free, so why not just make it up as I go along? It’s not like you’ve got anyone else waiting in the wings.” **
In this case, he is correct. Whatever his failings as a meteorologist, it’s not like NEice has a plethora of weathermen jumping at the opportunity to bring us all bad news. When pressed for a Turkey-Day prediction, he stood by his original claim: “I still think my 30/70 odds or ‘real’ ice holds ;-)” ***
*Not necessarily intended to be a factual statement
**Yep, I made that one up as well, sorry Smike!
***He actually said that one
Special thanks to Smike for playing along. The weather right now absolutely sucks (at least for ice climbing), and Sunday is supposed to be absurdly warm. Let’s hope Smike’s prediction for a cold and stormy December comes to pass!
We have been told by some that the real ice climbing season has not started and what we are doing is not real ice climbing. Well we want you to have a look at these photos and tell us if we are ice climbing – real ice climbing, that is. Alfonzo and I think we are but want to be sure!
No Ice, No Ice Climbing - Not In!
Ice, Ice Climbing - In!
King Ravine 11/13/11: It had been warm all week so Sunday we headed into King Ravine. We had previously seen plenty of water flowing and this time of year the sun never shines in on over half of the ravine… we were rewarded and climbed some fun and challenging ice. Another great ice climb of the season. At least I think it was a real ice climb?!
It’s all about timing and knowing where to go. Hit it wrong and it’s all coming down on you and running in your boot. It’s also not caring if you hit it wrong. It’s all part of the game. Don’ be lazy, get out, look and plan with the weather. Beat the sun and skip work if need be. Don’t be afraid to be wrong. It’s all fun. Ice climbing is an obsession and you need to feed it. Does the deer hunter wait until mid season to hunt? Does a true fan of any sport miss opening day? NO! That’s why we’re out there!
“We took a chance, for from the car and the road, while cranking tunes with the climate controls set to excellent, nothing looked worth the walk to us…. nothing looked “great” and most certainly not “in”. But here’s the weird thing… we went for it and did find ice… it was “in” and it was frick-n “great!” Who would have thunk it??” – Alfonzo
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Is this enough ice to climb?
Stay tuned for more road side and arm chair reports.
– Doug Millen
Alfonzo climbing delicately up the thin ice.
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