Harvard Cabin – Work Weekend

October 14-16, 2016

You’re Invited! – Click Here to Sign-Up

Harvard Cabin Mountaineers,

Hope everyone had fun and safe summer season. Marcia and I are currently traveling east towards New Hampshire. Having left Moab, Utah a few days ago we are on course for a just-in-time arrival to the 2016 Harvard Cabin Work Weekend set to kick-off on Friday Night, October 14th. If you are in the area and feel like a some Fall tramping on the rock pile and seeing the cabin in another season you are invited to stop-by, say hi, and lend a hand.

If you are interested in joining us for the weekend you can sign-up using the form linked above. Enter your name on the lower portion of the the form to let the club know how many to expect. You can ignore the travel/carpooling logistics info pertaining to club members traveling from Cambridge. That said, If you are in the Boston Area and are interested in carpooling, you may be in luck. Alternatively, you can reply here and let me know. Keep in mind, I’ll be at the cabin Friday Night and away from e-mail.

Sorry for the short notice. I really should have sent out this e-mail weeks ago. It’s looking like it will be a fun and very productive weekend. If we get to see some of you it will only add to the fun. Marcia and I will be around the cabin off and on throughout the remainder of the Fall, so if you can’t make it this weekend because you already have sending plans, we might need some more help in the coming weeks. Please let me know if you are interested.

That’s all for now from a congested interstate somewhere near Columbus, OH….this 4G stuff is really cool and really fast….like, 65 MPH all day!!! 14 more hours to the trail head! Hope to see some of you. If not, get psyched for snow and ice and we’ll see you this Winter!

As always, thanks for reading and keeping the Harvard Cabin warm and well!

Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker


Trail Adoption

A bit earlier this year the Harvard Mountaineering Club became the official trail adopter of the Huntington Ravine Fire Road. Trail Adopters are utilized across the country by the US Forest Service as a way to address trail maintenance issues that might come up from time to time. Becoming a trail adopter gives volunteer groups and/or individuals the permission and training necessary to mitigate trail maintenance needs as they arise. In the northeast this likely includes over-growth on lesser used trails and the clearing of the occasional blow-down. Maintenance issues like this are sometimes best dealt with by capable members of the public who are willing and regular users of a particular area. The efficiency of such an arrangement benefits everyone by circumventing the back-log of work and funding issues that forest managers tend to be dealing with.

It is only fitting that the HMC has taken on this role given the fact that Ted Carman and crew cut the fire road as they staked out sites for the construction of the Harvard Cabin in the early 1960’s.

Work Weekend Details

As with everything relating to life at the Harvard Cabin and in the mountains, safety is paramount. If you are planning to help with trail work we are asking you arrive equipped with basic personal protective equipment to include sturdy foot wear, gloves, eye protection and helmet. You will not be excluded if you don’t have such gear, but the more volunteers that bring their own the better. Same goes for hand-tools. If you have your own,please bring along any hand tools that you imagine would be useful given the days work. Simple hand tools should suffice. Please, Please, Please – only bring tools you are familiar with and comfortable using. Thanks.

Friday, October 14th, 2016

08:00 PM – Arrival

Feel free to show up at the Harvard Cabin on Friday Night – It will be later evening – 8 PM or so before the cabin is opened. Of course, bring you sleeping gear and some food. It should be a fun night evicting the summer residents. Cabin was spic-and-span when it was secured last Spring, so it should be a quick turn-around and a fun evening.

Saturday, October 15th, 2016

07:00 AM – PInkham Parking Lot

Snow Ranger and Trails Manager Helon Hoffer will be arriving at the Forest Service Garage located at the North End of the Pinkham Parking Lot. He would appreciate any help hiking up hand-tools that will be used for the day.

09:00 AM – Harvard Cabin

Helon will be meeting volunteers at the Harvard Cabin for a short safety briefing and to go over the plan for the day. In recent years, it has been increasingly difficult to get the Piston Bully (snow cat) above the Dow Cache. HMC Volunteers will be assisting the Forest Service in clearing and widening sections of the fire road where new growth is making access and rescue operations difficult, especially during low snow periods.

10:00 AM – 04:00 PM

Find us on the fire road somewhere above the Dow Cache.

04:00 PM – ???

Various odd-jobs around the cabin before dinner and evening socializing.

Sunday, October 16, 2016

All Day – A bit more relaxed of a day. Various projects and pre-season prep around the cabin. Tasks for all abilities and energy levels.

NOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and March 31st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org/cabin

AAC Fall BBQ 2016

AAC_Logo_Block-01

American Alpine Club’s annual Fall BBQ

NORTHEAST SECTION – NEW ENGLAND

When: Saturday October 22, 2016
Time: 5:00 pm to 8:00 pm
Where: The base of Cathedral Ledge at the Picnic Area just opposite the kiosk

NEice is the proud sponsor of this years event! All are welcome. Swing by to say hi to Doug and get psyched for the upcoming ice season! Doug will have some good Soup for us and his latest Drones! And don’t forget, it’s “Fireball” season.

As always it’s BYOB, and a grill item. We’ll provide the grill, side salads and munchies. We will have Plates, forks, cups and napkins on hand.

The New England Section has a long tradition of gathering and bringing climbers together from across multiple generations. Come join us at the annual fall barbecue at Cathedral Ledge in New Hampshire and you’re likely to bump into a mix of climbers, from someone on their first trip to the White Mountains to local legends who have put up some of the area classics.

See you there!

More info here: https://americanalpineclub.org/new-england

Email: newengland@americanalpineclub.org

2017 – Northeast Ice Festivals

Northeast Ice Festivals 2017

Well the ice season is upon us and the Northeast Ice Festivals will be here before we know it. Here are the latest dates for the 2016-2017 Ice Season. Mark your calendars and sign up early!

Jan.13-15, 2017 – Adirondack International Mountaineering Festival, NY

Jan. 20-22,  2017 – Smuggs Ice Bash, Smugglers Notch, VT

Jan. 27-29,  2017 – VICE Fest, Woodstock, NH

Jan. 27-30, 2017 – Catskill Ice Festival, NY

Feb. 3-5, 2017 – MWV ICE FEST, North Conway, NH

  • Stay tuned to NEice throughout the season for the latest on these events.

 

Petzl-Paso+Volta-Guide-Ropes

New Ropes From Petzl

Petzl-Paso+Volta-Guide-RopesPetzl is proud to announce two new additions to its rope line-up, these are the UIAA Guide Dry treated
PASO® GUIDE 7,7 mm (Half & Twin) and VOLTA® GUIDE 9,0 mm (Single, Half & Twin).

Both rope are available now – https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/News/2016-5-27/UIAA-GUIDE-DRY#.V-5OejKZMW8
Ropes with the “Guide” name meet or exceed the UIAA certifications of retaining less than 5% of the rope’s weight in water according to the UIAA testing procedure. Both the VOLTA GUIDE and PASO GUIDE absorb less than 2% of their weight in water. So Petzl’s new ropes easily exceed the new UIAA GUIDE Dry standard.

How does Petzl achieve this?

The manufacturing process for UIAA Guide Dry treatment has two stages: the core is treated before the rope is braided, and then the entire rope is treated in order to minimize water absorption and penetration by fine particles. Petzl’s dry treatment process protects the ropes from abrasion in addition to repelling moisture. Water absorbtion by a rope can increase its weight and make it difficult to use in freezing conditions.

068w0000002dG3tAAEAll of Petzl’s dynamic ropes, including the UIAA Guide Dry treated ropes, bear the bluesign®product label. bluesign® products are manufactured to conform to the independent bluesign®standard.
bluesign® is the strictest textile standard for protection of the environment , the consumer, and the worker.

All aspects of of production related to the environment are critically controlled and optimized: use of materials, energy, wastewater, air emissions, and the use and handling of hazardous chemicals.

Source: Dave Karl, Petzl

Peter Doucette and Silas Rossi Crushing It on Katahdin

Featured Photo

Peter Doucette on the

Peter Doucette pauses, momentarily to admire the wind-sculpted tentacles of the crux on the “Cilley-Barber” route in the South Basin of Katahdin, Baxter State Park, Maine – Peter and Silas Rossi had a great day out on 3/30/16. They started from a car at Abol Bridge, went up the Abol Slide trail to near the summit then descended into the South Basin three times climbing the “Chauvin-Cole”, “Cilley-Barber”, and “The Waterfall” before heading back to the car. The whole outing took 17.5 hrs and included 20 miles of travel and over 11,000 feet of elevation gain. An impressive feat from two of the best Alpinist in the Northeast.

Source: Peter Doucette and Silas Ros

The Father of the Harvard Cabin

The Farther of the Harvard Cabin

Ted Carman

Winter is still alive on “The Rock Pile” and I was lucky to meet Ted Carman this weekend (3-26-16). Referred to by some as “The Father of the Harvard Cabin”. Without Ted the cabin as we know it today would not have happened.

He drew up the plans, literally, in his dorm room. Got the required permission, and did the fund-raising. Then Ted went on to recruit volunteer labor to get the supplies up the hill and built the cabin we see today. Thanks Ted, your efforts have been greatly appreciated by many over the years.

– Doug Millen

Click Here for the complete story of how the cabin came to be.

Photo by Lisa Poole: Rich Palatino, Ted Carman and Doug Millen

The Season in Review – 2015-2016

Just Enough to Survive

Solo

What the Fuck!

The Last Printing Ever

“The Lake”

It’s an “Ice Bash

Let it Snow

Flight into Emerald City

Some Nasal Drip

Mountainfest!

The Devil Is In The Details

Ice Fest!

Dropline

One Bad Ass Climber

Up, Up and Away

By Tooth and Claw

The Wildest Pitch of Ice He has Ever Known

Blue Lines 2

The Father of The Harvard Cabin

 

 

A Solo Winter

Winter came late, and not the best of winters, but I had a ton of fun flying my new drone. Here are some of my best video clips that I shot last fall/winter with my new Drone, “Solo!”

A Snowy Day

A Snowy Day

Solo Flown by Doug Millen


Harvard Cabin Report 3-17-16

March 17, 2016

Harvard Cabin Mountaineers,

Happy St. Paddy’s Day!

In celebration, The white mountains have been turned green! But, don’t worry, there is still plenty of skiing and climbing to be had before we let all the ice fall down. Sure, it’s been raining like the Emerald Isle, but with what little luck we have had this season we are psyched for this weekend’s forecast – SUNNY AND COLD! This might be the last time, if not the first time, you will have felt ol’ jack frost all Winter. So, why not try your luck at a chance for thescreaming barfies? Come defy the winter that wasn’t, grab the fat bastard and file away a seasons worth of anticipation, come climb and ski some of the last snow and ice remaining in the northeast.

With superfluous amounts of water draining from the mountain along with plummeting temps, you might even consider scratching around a buttress or two this weekend. This will be a fun few days on the mountain. Right now, it looks like we could have a 72+ hour reprieve from the persistent melt-out we’ve been dealing with over the last two weeks. We could even pick-up a few inches of snow over the next couple of days, which would help to cover up all of the green decorations.

Snow and Ice Conditions

  • O’Dell, Pinnacle – In
  • South, Escape, Yale/Harvard – Out
  • Damnation, North – Possible with Re-Freeze, but not recommended

With the low snowfall this season and above normal temperatures, Trails on Mt. Washington look like you might expect in May. Tread-way on the lower 1/3’rd of the Tuckerman Ravine trail between the trail-head and Hermit Lake is comprised of mostly mud and rock.

The remaining 2/3’rds is mostly melting ice and snow. TRACTION IS REQUIRED! The ice has become much more manageable in recent days as temps have soared. This is an improvement over the nearly bullet-proof and contiguous sheet of protectable ice that has made the Tux trail a viable water ice adventure for most of March. No exaggeration, V-Thread practice was possible on the the Tux trail some weeks. Think I’m kidding? A couple of weeks ago, Snow Rangers felt the need to perform technical lowers of snow machines in order to get them safely back to their summer berths. It’s been a tough winter, but Spring has sprung and conditions are improving as they degrade. Come enjoy what remains!

The Huntington Fire Road is mostly snow covered and should be so through the weekend and beyond. The fan hasn’t really changed too much from what is has been most of the season. Travel towards your gully of choice remains mostly summer like. Snowfields do still exists on the upper portions of approaches to O’Dell, Pinnacle, Central, and the Yale Buttress.

As far as ice conditions – O’dell and Pinnacle are hanging tough. Ice/snow above the first pitch of Pinnacle has really taken a beating in the last few rain events. There are climber-sized holes in the snow and ice caused by excessive water draining on-top of the ice during monsoon-like events. With the potential for new snow fall tonight, Friday, and Sunday, I would be mindful of possible snow-bridging that could occur in the gully, particularly above initial steep-ice pitch. Slipping into a water-fall thanks to a hidden manhole could be unpleasant.

Portions of Pinnacle above the main ice flow will become more difficult to protect over the next two weeks. Thankfully, I believe melting will slow significantly over the weekend. If you were hoping to climb Pinnacle before the season is out, I would consider doing so in the next week.

Thanks to Eric Winter and Jake Kenealy for the great photos taken earlier today in Pinnacle. Eric and Jake live and work in Vermont and are totally stoked for skiing and climbing in the East. Sure hope to see more of these guys in the future!

Pinnacle Gully - March 16, 2016 - Click to Enlarge

Pinnacle Gully – March 16, 2016 – Click to Enlarge

Spring Skiing

While I’m not definitely not one that welcomes the crowds that come with a spring snowpack, we are definitely in the period of persistent isothermic snow. In other words, the spring corn cycles have begun. Besides the obvious ski lines over in Tuckerman Ravine, there are some manageable turns to be earned in Huntington Ravine at the moment. The forecast return of freezing temps might keep skiers out of the steeps this weekend, but once we begin to warm up again the experienced ski mountaineer might find some worthy turns in the upper stretches of O’Dell, South, and maybe Escape. None of which, are offering top-bottom skiing, unfortunately. As always, there are plenty of turns high-up on the summit cone, but don’t expect to make it down to the ravines without first removing your skis. Better luck next year.

On Wednesday (March 16th), I had the pleasure of making a very vegetated approach into Diagonal Gully (Huntington) for a very nice snow climb followed by a fantastic ski descent. It certainly wasn’t the best conditions I’ve ever experienced in Diagonal, but it skied about the best I can remember as a result of the stable snowpack. It was quite pleasant to charge hard! I was skiing with Sarah, Hermit Lake Caretaker, a super stoked skier and climber! We are looking forward to having Sarah in the drainage again next winter again, for sure!

After some tight turns in Diagonal, it was time to boot back up to the ridge and head over the Tuckerman for a surprise two-ravine day. I wasn’t sure it would happen this season, citing mountains condition and motivation problems. We considered dropping into Right Gully, which has been fun this season, but it never really filled-in the way it normally does. As Sarah pointed-out as we wandered across the Alpine Garden, “Skiing Right Gully would be like voting for Trump; Doing so probably wouldn’t effect the election, but it would be a crappy thing to do.” Coincidentally, we decided to head over to LEFT Gully, where we launched off the top and skied some truly hero snow all the way to the mouth of the ravine. That run alone seemed to make-up for an extremely painful and frustrating season. Not only that, it put a the wrapper on a fantastic day on the mountain! I predict we have only a few more similar days left in the season. It’s already skiing like May, so you better hurry-up and get here. Come prepared and stay safe! Keep an eye on the  avy report for daily condition reports.

Tuckerman Ravine 3-17-16 / Photo by Jake Kenealy

Welcome Back Ted Carman, Cabin Visionary

As a reminder, Ted Carman will be spending the weekend (March 19 & 20) with everyone at the Harvard Cabin. In no uncertain terms, Ted is the Father of the Harvard Cabin. He built the place. He got the permission, he did the fund-raising, he had the itch that had to be scratched. He drew up the plans, literally, in his dorm room. He then went on to recruit volunteer labor and got the supplies uphill. Not bad for a  college kid. Following his time as a Naval Officer, Ted went on to a career in non-profit community development. It’s no surprise that the construction of the Harvard Cabin is still listed on his CV.

I was hoping the mountain would be more winter-like for Ted’s return. Luckily, it does seem like the forecast calls for the most winter-like weather we’ve seen in weeks. You can help fill-in the gaps by bringing along a rope, rack, a partner, and your love for the Harvard Cabin. Please consider coming up and spending the weekend with Ted. If you can’t make the overnight but are on the mountain – Please stop-in and introduce yourself to the guy we all owe a great deal of gratitude, if you don’t mind my saying. As you might have guessed, he’s a pretty interesting and lively fellow. Click Here for the complete story of how the cabin came to be.

Hope to see you this weekend,

Rich Palatino

Harvard Cabin Caretaker

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ow0kjRFKsHI/VbrSBKBRUAI/AAAAAAAAeaA/2k3Gp6CnfQs/s288-Ic42/Chautauqua.jpg

Rich and Marcia – Cabin Caretakers 2015/16

NOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and March 31st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org/cabin