Archives
Cover Photo – 03.23.11
Simian – NEI 5+ R/X Bold New Line at Poke-O-Moonshine Ian Osteyee of Adrondack Mountain Guides on his new route “Simian“. Photo by Bill Simes
BOLD New Ice Route
Simian Poko-O-Moonshine, NY NEI 5+R/X, M-fun, 450-500 ft FA 3/9/11 – Ian Osteyee & Bill Simes “Basically no gear on the first pitch until the topout ledge, then just a 10cm screw. Similar to Stingray but no anchor to clip halfway up. They went up the face where summer rock routes Cooney-Norton, 10b and Cosmopolitan […]
Scottish Ice Trip
by Petzl-sport Scottish Icetrip – English from Petzl-sport on Vimeo.If there is one place on earth where climbers celebrate the arrival of the next snowstorm, it has to be Scotland. Each winter, pounded by the North Atlantic winds, the Scottish Highlands are covered by a layer of snow and frost at the mercy of weather […]
Nemesis
by Joshua Lavigne I had the opportunity to climb Nemesis with Raphael Slawinski a couple weeks ago. We hiked up the Stanley Valley in the early morning looking for the climb ‘Gentlemen’s Day Out’, but we didn’t really know where to find it. Our default for the day was to climb Nemesis, which we have […]
Fluffy
Go back Mountain, NH Fluffy – NEI 6 X 60m – FA: Josh Hurst, Ian Austin Start: Immediately left of Valhalla in the Valhalla Amphitheater Protection: Stubbies, Screws, .5-3 Camalots Descent: Rap route Extenuating Circumstances: Ice was 1/2″-2″ thick at start for the first ascent, first good protection was a Camelot behind an excavated […]
Cover Photo 3.10.11
Maine Line Photo of the week: Climber enjoying the steep 2nd pitch of the mega classic “Maine Line” NEI 5+. Photo by Kushman
Cannon Cliff – Winter Girdle Traverse
by Rufus J Lusk Cannon Cliff Winter Girdle Traverse from Cowboy Bear Ninja on Vimeo.Possibly the biggest alpine objective on the east coast the Girdle traverse crosses a lot of rock. Cannon is about a mile long and the traverse crosses a good chunk of that length. Matt McCormick is a professional climber and gear […]
Floods and Deep Snow
Spring is coming! And with spring weather comes certain opportunities …..get ready! Heavy rains hit hard in the south and deep snow (2-3 ft) in north west of our region. More heavy rain on the way, even on Mt. Washington. The ice will take a heavy hit. But the good news is that the forecast […]
Surf's Up!
Surf’s Up! from Freddie Wilkinson on Vimeo. “The ice swell was ON at Poko-Moonshine cliff this season, the winter of 2010- 2011. My friends Matt Horner, Matt McCormick, and Bayard Russell pioneered an amazing new mixed line just right of the Jeff Lowe test-piece, Gorillas in the Mist. Only one pitch remained to finish Endangered […]
La Loutre & La Pomme d'Or 3/5/11
Malbaie, Quebec – La Loutre & La Pomme d’Or are still in great condition as of March 5th, 2011. -Seb
