Archives
Mount Bradley Double Header – FA's in the Ruth Gorge
“The Sum of Its Parts” (4000′ Alaska Grade V AI6 M7 A2) was completed on April 17, 2012.
“Heavy Mettle” (4,600′, Alaska Grade V WI5+R M6 A0) was completed on April 26, 2012
The White Mountains from the air! – Brian Nevins
I was able to shoot in the shadow of my favorite mountains yesterday and channeled my inner Brad Washburn. I put up a special gallery on my site from yesterday. These mountains will always continue to inspire me.
THE BIG FREAKING DEAL, AIN'T BOULDERING
Last week when the British alpinist Jonathan Griffith linked, solo, in winter, in a day, the North Faces of Aiguille Verte, Les Courtes and Les Droites, down climbing two of the faces and skiing off the backside of the third and final climb, most people skipped the news. His linkage made the website, but on a reader-interest of one to 10, it was a snoozing three. On-line video reposts of falls (spectacular ones, I’ll give them that), a new hard boulder problem and other assorted reports, none of which will go down in the books as especially memorable or important, were more popular.
NEice takes to the air in Huntington Ravine
It was Easter weekend and what better way to spend it than with our friends at Harvard Cabin! Packed in a sizable sled, the latest and greatest flying machine and it’s components were headed up the trail Friday night, ready (or not!) for the job ahead. The weather and snow conditions were superb for climbing […]
Overcoming Fear – Taking the Sharp End
“Even from the base, Whiteman Falls is an intimidating line: a cone of crazy aerated bobbles of ice the consistency of styrofoam (if you’re lucky) leads the way up to a cave on the left below a crazy mushroom that looks like one of the monsters from Calvin’s Imagination as he daydreams of being Spaceman Spiff. From there, an often hollow tube of a pillar leads to further overhangs that guard the exit.”
The Wilford Finish
Peter Doucette & Michael Wejchert refusing to give up winter! “ The alarm went off at 5:30 a.m. “UNNGH!!!!” Staggering downstairs, I pushed aside empty PBR cans and groped for the french press. The high school themed party (I never thought I’d dress like a guidance counselor before) was a rollicking success. While I wisely stayed […]
Fred Beckey slide show in VT ( Thur 3/21) and NH ( Sat 3/23)
VT – Presented by the American Alpine Club, the Outdoor Gear Exchange, UVM, and Petra Cliffs
NH – The New England Section of the AAC and International Mountain Equipment present a “Dirtbag Dinner” with climbing legend Fred Beckey.
Join us for pizza and pints during a slide show by Fred Beckey.
Fred’s presentation will feature slides and stories from his most recent book: Fred Beckey’s 100 Favorite Climbs.
Lost and Found
Lost: Sense of humility, proper assessment of ability. Last seen somewhere between Canmore, AB and the belay atop first pitch of Whitemans Falls. Lost: Pair of balls. Last seen between 2nd and 3rd screw, pitch 2. Lost: Dignity, pride, ego. Last seen between 3rd and 4th screw, pitch 2. Beer if returned to owner. Found: […]
Fred Beckey in the Adirondacks – This Sunday and Monday
This Sunday at The Mountaineer!
Ryan Stefiuk on using the upper grip on tools.
Recently, I’ve watched a lot of beginner ice climbers using their traditional, more straight-shafted tools in an unconventional manner while climbing ice. I’ve seen people liberally using the upper grip on the shaft, grabbing the top of the tool to pull down, pulling on the shaft just below the head and looping the rope through the pinky rest while placing screws.
