Archives
Get Out and Get Some!
It’s the Start of December The time when the sun begins to rise, it’s nearly set. The nights are long and cold and the days are short and cold. It’s the best time to catch the mountain gullies with abundant ice and perfect snow conditions. This past weekend I joined a crew up Mt. Lafayette’s Escadrille Route. […]
Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads
A great film by Petzl on proper ice screw placement technique, as well as how to set an anchor and a v-thread. Ice climbing basics: Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads [EN] from Petzl-sport on Vimeo.This film demonstrates proper ice screw placement technique, as well as how to set an anchor and a v-thread in […]
SHARPENING PETZL PICKS
” I have developed a sharpening obsessive-compulsiveness with my tools and crampons. Literally, I use a new pair of picks and a new pair of crampons every time I embark on an important (to me) climb. It really is that important; it really does make that much difference.” – Will Mayo
Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan
Be Heard! Help the Adirondack Park Agency define who we are as Mountaineers. If you don’t, they will define who we are for us. As climbers, we have until Friday, Dec 5th 2014, to submit comments to the Adirondack Park Agency. See info below. The History The Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan (APSLMP) defines permissible […]
New ADK Ice Guide in the Works!
Attention! Don Mellor and Drew Haas are working on a new guidebook for Adirondack Ice Climbing. This will update the current guide “Blue Lines”, and will be the 2nd edition. They are looking for photos of Adirondack ice climbing for the new guide book scheduled to be released next year. ** South and Central areas especially! […]
A Dose of Prozac and Some Positive Thinking
By Courtney Ley Let’s get right to it! More noteworthy news coming out of Cannon Cliff again this weekend! Jeff Previte and Matt Ritter made the second ascent of Prozac on the Omega Wall this past Friday. The mixed route, finishing right of Omega, was first established by Kevin Mahoney and Ben Gilmore in 2002. […]
The Weekly UPdate!
From Cannon Cliff to Crawford Notch and Beyond New Hampshire It’s game on in the higher elevations this week! Lines formed in Pinnacle Gully and other gullies in Huntington saw some action too, including Odells and Yale. We even had our first minor epic (?) this week. Yes, someone forgot their three screw anchor on Pinnacle. So it’s business as usual on […]
The Swiss Machine in Boston
“The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce a speaking tour by legendary speed climber Ueli Steck. Presented by Mountain Hardwear, with proceeds to benefit the AAC, the highly acclaimed “Swiss Machine” will present a visually stunning and interactive slideshow about his experiences climbing the world’s largest mountains, setting speed records without oxygen, training in the Swiss Alps and helping Mountain Hardwear fabricate better clothing systems for all his pursuits. “
Tips for the Early Season Ice Climber
The fastest way to feel gripped in the early season is to not trust your crampons, and the most common reason to not trust them is they just aren’t in the ice securely.
Back to Business!
The Season is On! Let’s take a look at the conditions and reports from this past weekend across the Northeast and go over what to expect for the coming weekend. New Hampshire In Tuckerman Ravine, we saw a couple of climbers lingering around as we headed up Hillman’s Highway. It was a fun day and we climbed some great ice! YES, enough […]