Rap Anchors

Discussion in 'General Discussions' started by pcooke, Jan 11, 2017.

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  1. pcooke

    pcooke Member

    Last weekend on Drool of the Beast I topped out to find a complete and utter clusterfuck of a rap anchor. (Sorry, no photo... rookie mistake)

    Every single piece of cord/webbing was significantly sun-bleached enough that it no longer resembled the original color. A fixed pink tri-cam now had a grey sling. One cord was tied to an invisable pin/wedged into a crack? Another cord was tied to who knows what deep in the hard-pack snow. Another was tied to a very small tree? I couldn't tell, it was buried in hardpack.

    There was a decent nut and a red tricam in the anchor. I left these, cut off every piece of webbing, cut off the sling of the now grey tricam, and left two nuts. I equalized it all using two pieces of cord/webbing, and left the two leaver-lockers at the master point. The accumulated tat I removed maybe could have been compressed down into my insulated water-bottle sleeve... maybe.

    I did this all in the amount of time it took my partner to follow the pitch. Most of us climb with some cord and the means to cut it. Be mindful of what you rap off of, and let's pay it forward by replacing some of the ticking time-bombs out there.
     
  2. Mike R

    Mike R Member

    Agreed. Inspecting and updating anchors needs to be part of everyone's early season routine.
     
  3. Luc-514

    Luc-514 Member

    Yes! Replace and remove excess crap and pack it out. I've found a loop of cord pocking out through the ice on top of a climb in Chapel Pond canyon, hacked it out a bit to see, it wasn't tied to anything, just discarded there a while ago.
     

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