NEice Product Reviews - Quark Ergo - Powered by ReviewPost

NEice - Gear Reviews

Home · Search · Register · Login

Home > Ice Axes & Crampons

Petzl Quark Ergo

Post a Review

Reviews	Views	Date of last review
3	9872	Wed Dec 26, 2007

Recommended By	Average Price	Average Rating
100% of reviewers	$283.50	8.0

Description:

Buy it at the Mountaineer.

A technical axe for leashless competition climbing on ice or mixed route climbingwith a high level of difficulty.

Ice axe with ergonomically designed grip, the lightest in its class (666 g).

Grip capabilities: adaptation of the handle, a double handed grip for change over, for pull ups, switching hands and intricate moves.

Leverage for pulling up and locking off: the angle of the handle in relation to the shaft provides the climber with greater leverage.

Balanced to maximize swing performance.

Maximum comfort:
*the handle completely protects the hand from impact and knocks from the ice
*the handle's small diameter makes it easier to grip when wearing thin gloves
*its double density covering ensures excellent grip and strength.

A trapezoidal shaped hammer facilitates jamming in rock fissures.

Placement made easy due to excellent clearance (ice formations and mantles).

Good swinging performance, even with a straight arm:
*minimum mass around the rotation point (handle), maximum around the head of the axe
*small sized spike helps prevent snagging whilst swinging

Placement efficiency:
forged pick, thinner at the tip, to prevent ice shattering
*steep angled first tooth for thin ice and small edges
*good stability whilst placing and hooking due to the teeth distribution

Easy removal even with deep placements due to the beveled teeth.

Technical Specifications:
Comes with Cascade pick
Weight: 1 lb 8 oz

Author

Post a Reply

jesselillis
member

Registered: Thu Dec 1, 2005
Posts: 2

Review Date: Fri Dec 2, 2005

Recommend? yes | Price paid: Not Indicated | Rating: 7

Pros:	great on mixed
Cons:	hammer, pick design

tool swings well, but requires more aggressive wrist snap on ice than many other tools.
matching on secondary hand postion feels solid.
hammer is pretty useles for pounding bd spectres or much anything since you have to choke up so far on the shaft, but i guess the weight helps get good sticks on ice.
accompanying pick not as suited to mixed climbing as the nomics pick, with its serrated texture for stein pulls on the upper side of the pick by the head of the tool.
shaft and handle definitely benefit from some grip tape.
generally these tools are not as good for mixed climbing as the BD fusions, but the BD fusions are pretty terrible on solid ice. if you were looking to mostly climb ice leashless, or were interested in trying out some mixed stuff, these are a great tool to do both. if you are a mixed nut, the fusions are probably better.

Mike R
Master Guide

Registered: Tue Dec 14, 2004
Posts: 820

Review Date: Sun Mar 19, 2006

Recommend? yes | Price paid: $299.00 | Rating: 8

Pros:	fun to use, great pick
Cons:	lower grip is angled too much

These are like rock climbing in slippers - fun with a capital F. But not likely your choice for everyday. At least they weren't for me.

When I first got them, I lacked the grip strength to climb vertical ice with them. Placing a screw on near vert was terrifying and difficult routes felt half a grade harder. After countless chin ups during the fall with these tools hooked over the top of my training woodie, the grip issues are less of a problem.

They take some getting used to. I quickly learned that I could not swing them from the lower grip. The hand angle is all wrong. I found I could get a good enough swing if I held the bend of the orange grip so that my middle finger was in the back of the grip and could act as a pivot. That gives great snap to the tool but it's hard to swing with any real force. What's worse, my left hand never developed the control to do this effectively. My head flop percentage with the left hand was way too high.

Once planted, I liked to move up to the upper grip. This saves considerable effort over the course of a pitch. I put some tape on the shafts here for insulation and grip. Nothing abrasive, just some soft foamy tennis grip stuff.

Since I still find myself getting tired/pumped on steep stuff, I see a need for leashes. Ergos or any other totally leashless tool could never be my do-it-all tool. But man, are they fun!

Knackered
Beginner

Registered: Sun Jan 15, 2006
Posts: 11

Review Date: Wed Dec 26, 2007

Recommend? yes | Price paid: $268.00 | Rating: 9

Pros:	Weight & balance
Cons:	Lower grip angle

These tools are perfectly weighted and once familiarized with will translate your swings into great sticks. I would agree with Mike R's comments about the lower grip being a bit tricky to master since it does not share the same axis as the shaft; however, I've found they work well with/responds to a pronounced wrist flick. Lower grip definitely has a size limit, so if you have big hands or wear bulky gloves, test fit first! Have been swapping between Ergos and Quarks so far this season, and must admit that the Quarks with fangs are very supportive when climbing leashless. But if you have ditched your leashes for good, Ergos get the nod with superior weight distribution (all @ the head) and added upper grip. Otherwise, get the Quarks and have it BOTH ways!

NEice.com