jwellford
Registered: October 2004
Location: Keene Valley, NY
Posts: 56
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Review Date: Tue October 19, 2004
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Would you recommend the product? Yes |
Price you paid?: $219.00
| Rating: 9
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Positive aspects of the product (pros):
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Light, great grip. Love the Fang and Android leash options.
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Cons:
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Pick isn't as agressive as Grivel's. Price doesn't include leash.
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It's the first ice tool I've owned, so I don't speak with too much authority. However, I've used the Quark and the Tech Wing as well. I like it better than the Quark--nicer swing weight and better pick. I think Grivel has the best pick for water ice though, as it seemed to penetrate more easily and have a slightly better hold.
Overall, I'm extremely happy with these tools set up with fangs and Android leashes. I've been able to unclip the leashes and shake out in places where my partner had to clip into his tools to rest. It's a good system.
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Broken Spectre
Registered: November 2004
Location: near Smuggs
Posts: 675
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Review Date: Mon January 3, 2005
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Would you recommend the product? Yes |
Price you paid?: None indicated
| Rating: 9
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Positive aspects of the product (pros):
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Great bulge clearing curve. Easy on the hands
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Cons:
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Leash sometimes pops free at scary times. Laser picks are B rated and weak
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I'd give these a 10 if it wasn't for a couple of somewhat big problems. These tools are steep ice machines, easily clearing bulges and cauliflower formations with the big recurve. Having climbed on a pair of black prophets for years, my hands are feeling happy to have not been smacked up yet this season. The grip is not too big like the prophet, making this tool more appropriate for smaller hands. The leashes are great on these tools allowing for easy shakeouts unlike my old lockdowns. These tools really come into their own on WI4 or steeper or wierd ice formations.
Now for the negatives:
1)The pick is probably the worst thing about these tools. The laser pick is simply too weak for hard ice which seems to be ever present in the Northeast. After only 6 times out (without mixed climbing), I had bent the pick (b rated) and damaged the groove in the steel that stabilizes the pick vertically. I solved this by replacing the picks with cobra picks (T rated) which I have never had a problem with. That said, I have had friends repeatedly break picks from Grivel that were also B-rated so it may have something to do with the foundry process.
2) The leashes, though generally good, have a couple of problems. It's hard to mantle on the tool with the leash on because it is really to short. Secondly the leash sometimes releases when swinging making for a few scary moments. Finally, the leash can get in the way while doing belay duty or rope coiling.
3) This tool is not really appropriate for snow climbing. I'm not saying it can't be used, but the finger catch will make it harder to thrust then older tools. With the fang attached, they won't really work for snow at all.
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Anonymous
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Review Date: Sun March 19, 2006
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Would you recommend the product? Yes |
Price you paid?: None indicated
| Rating: 8
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Positive aspects of the product (pros):
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great swing, availablility of parts and add-ons
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Cons:
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picks are hard to get out of the ice
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A very popular tool and rightly so. If you take a big swing, then you probably like BD tools and this one should be on your test drive list. Even a wrist flickker will appreciate the way these handle on steep ice. Expensive but a good long term investment.
I LIKE these tools. I would LOVE them if they cleaned from placements as easily as my Quarks. But they don't. And it's not a matter of tuning the pick, it's a result (I'm convinced) of the design of the picks. The Titan/Cobra are probably the worst, the Laser pick is better but still not good enough. The problem is that the tip doesn't have enough taper, ie. the top and bottom edges are nearly parallel. So it doesn't back out of the hole when you wiggle it up and down. You end up LIFTING the tool out, often after extensive pumping and choking up on the shaft. That's just a waste of energy IMO. Watch BD users climb, you'll see them do this a lot. Now watch a Quark user. Hand never leaves the grip.
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icejunkie
Beginner
Registered: November 2007
Location: Orono, ME
Posts: 21
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Review Date: Tue February 5, 2008
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Would you recommend the product? Yes |
Price you paid?: $176.00
| Rating: 10
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Positive aspects of the product (pros):
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Weight, clearance, ballance
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Cons:
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This is the second ice tool I have owned so far. I should add that I have the newer 2007 vipers. I amsolutely love this tool. It's nice and light but not too light, it still sinks awesome. It clears bulges and the ballance is right on. I also like the insulated grip, keeps my hands a little warmer. I use it with the pommell thingy which makes climbing leashless a breeze. I also love the android leashes, just put them on recently for a trip to smuggs and willoughby and they worked great. An awesome tool that can be had for a reasonable price (especially if your willing to go with the pre-2007 model).
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send it, dont pretend it
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Registered: October 2004
Location: Keene Valley, NY