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Petzl Dart Post a Review
Reviews Views Date of last review
2 9344 Sun Mar 19, 2006
Recommended By Average Price Average Rating
100% of reviewers $150.00 9.5
Dart

Description: Buy it at the Mountaineer.


Single-point crampons born from competition, for dry-tooling, extreme mixed climbing and icefall climbing.


High-performance front point:
*offset for greater precision
*notched with a hooking point.


2nd row of teeth inclined forward for stabilized position.


Hooking possibilities:
*forward lateral points inclined toward the rear to allow pulling
*heel spur available as an option.


Freedom and efficiency of movement thanks to the light weight of the crampons (under 840 g for a pair).


Precise placement and feel due to the horizontal structure: the foot is closer to the ice.


Precision interface with the boot:
*2 adjustment positions for the front wire to adhere to soles of any thickness
*the wire can be offset to adapt to asymmetric boots
*adjustment is easy (no tools) and precise (to the half-size)


Possible to screw the crampon onto the boot (lower weight and higher precision).


Front part is replaceable when the point is worn.


Set up with the SIDELOCK binding, for boots with front and rear sole overlaps (wire at front and rear). Rapid-fastening lateral binding system, avoiding the encumbrance of a heel-bail. Rear ANTISNOW available as an option,to avoid the build-up of snow.


Technical specifications:
Vertical Mono points (forged)
Semi-rigid
Weight: 1 lb 13 oz


Byterock
stranger

Registered: Mon Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 94
Review Date: Thu Jan 27, 2005 Recommend? yes | Price paid: $150.00 | Rating: 10 

 
Pros: Light Weight, Easy on~-Easy Off,
Cons: Heel Spur gets in the way (if used)

I can safely say these are simply the best I have ever tried.


At less than a ½ kilo each you barely notice you are wearing them. These really make ice climbing more like rock climbing as you get a real feel for the ice. You have to dispense with old fashion brute force foot bashing, it is a gentle touch with these puppies. Sticking the mono-point into cracks and pick holes, side hooking, even edging with the swept-back picks and of course don’t forget hooking with the large heel spur.


With these crampons one takes a much more natural stance with less calf and leg fatigue. However, you will have to get a very stiff pair of boots and ensure they are tightened correctly as your boot will be doing more work that a “rail” type crampon.


It is in hard mixed terrain that these crampons excel and having played with them over the summer scaring up a local practice area with them I can easily say they really do make a big difference. I was able to do my first big overhand problem this summer (M7+?) with them. If you work at it a little you can quickly improve your skill at least one or two grades by just changing crampons.


They are a little out of place in a pure alpine environment but still usable for traditional flat-footing you only have to be careful of impaling yourself on the heal spur. I have found that they do not ball-up at all. Personally I would use them only on steeper alpine routes (north faces) where their light weight makes a difference, but on simple glacier plods they are overkill, stick with your Ecrins.


The range of adjustment for these crampons is acceptable with symmetrical and asymmetrical front point options, long or short front points and the ability to snugly fit onto any size boot. They are quite narrow so they are better suited to newer narrow toed boots but they will still fit on most older boots. Check before you buy. You can also have them bolted to your boots if you want.


There has been a lot of talk about how radical this design is but in actuality, it is more of a throw back to the crampons of old. They share a good deal of design ideas with the original front points of the early 1930s. The mono-point, though first popularized in the mid 80s goes way back to the some of the first front point crampons that Laurent Grivel created in 1929. It is only today with modern materials and welding methods that this sort of design is now practical to produce.


The side-lock system is much more comfortable to wear and it gives one a little extra room on the heel and it most likely will never pop-off like so many others I have tried. As for it being a new idea, again there was a similar design about in the 70s by Salewa but it proved to be an impractical hook-up of springs and torsion bars that never caught on.


The novelty of these crampons is that they have taken the best of traditional design and updated it to produce an ice-weapon that rises above the competition.


The one complaint I have heard about these is that when the points wear out you have to buy new crampons. I think this is a little bit of a false argument as I find the steel of the point much stronger that the regular M10 I have only sharpened it once even after a summer of dry tooling and even then it was just a little. With the regular rail type crampons I found that when it came time to change a front point the screws spacers and rails were so bent up that it was a problem getting them back together and expensive to buy all the little parts. With the Darts all I have to do is buy a replacement front points and I am done, and the cost not much more than a regular blade replacement.


CM has completely redesigned its line of crampons for the 2004 season and you will see the Side-Lock as a standard option on most of their crampons. Darts without heel-spurs are now standard. You have to buy the heel spur as a separate option. There is now a dual front point and an alpine front points called SARKIN available as well as an antiballing plates for the rear.


If you want to push your envelope and move up a few grades on the ice climbing scale or your keen to get into high level M6+ mixed climbing then I suggest you get a pair of these.


If you are starting out on little WI2~3s or are heading up a PD on Rainier or Mont-blanc STAY AWAY from these they will not help you much.


------------------------------
It is not the fallng that hurts it is the sudden stop at the bottom that will kill you.
Mike R
Master Guide


Registered: Tue Dec 14, 2004
Posts: 838
Review Date: Sun Mar 19, 2006 Recommend? yes | Price paid: Not Indicated | Rating: 9 

 
Pros: light, sensitive, efficient
Cons: hard to put on

I've been using Charlet Grade 8 'poons for 4 years, always monopoint. I don't have any real complaints with them. I told myself the only reason I'd consider another set of crampons would be to get offset mono. Well, last summer I played around with my Grade 8's, for which I also have the dual kit, and I put the mono in the inside position of the dual plate (and filled the outer slot with spacers), making a neat offset frontpoint. I noticed an improvement when stemming and when standing on rock edges. So I decided I like offsets. Problem was, the DIY offsets didn't work very well on hard ice. I don't know why, but they always "kicked back" a bit when I drove the point into the ice. This was annoying at best, downright unnerving at other times. So I jumped at a pair of used Darts. I knew they were lighter, but I was amazed how much lighter: 5 ounces PER FOOT lighter than the Grade 8's. The difference against M10s would be even more.


They ride closer to the boot sole, which was a plus on a certain mixed route foot jam I encountered. As hoped, they hit the ice hard and sink the point extremely well. Even better than the G8's. They inspire confidence on all kinds of ice.


The only downside is that the sidelock needs to be very tight on my boots (Salomon SM9 Snow and Ice) in order for the toe bail not to wiggle. That makes putting them on the boot a huge struggle. And an awkward one, with the fragile-appearing plastic pull-up lever on the outside rear of the boot. There also is no fine adjustment knob.


Addendum - this is even worse on the Freney XT.


I know the points are designed for pulling, but the funny little foot at the base of the second points effectively acts as a flat bottom. On one memorable occasion this caused the foot to skate off a slopy ice high step that it should have stuck on. A few minutes with a file "fixed" the problem (inside secondary points only).

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