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Petzl charlet Nomic

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Reviews	Views	Date of last review
5	11204	Wed Mar 7, 2007

Recommended By	Average Price	Average Rating
80% of reviewers	None indicated	9.8

Description:

climbing with these tools was a religious awakening... they swing almost like quarks, very comfortable grip, they hook almost by themselves. on mixed they held onto the smallest features with very little movement when moving up and sideways. the teeth on the top are very grippy. These ARE the next evolution in ice tools for both mixed and pure ice. super light, yet well balanced.

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Broken Spectre
Addict

Registered: Mon Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 561

Review Date: Wed Apr 5, 2006

Recommend? yes | Price paid: Not Indicated | Rating: 10

Pros:	Geometry, Grip, Picks
Cons:	Not a low angle ice tool

Ok,
So since I won these from this great site, I feel like I ought to give them a review. I have to admit, I haven't been able to use them this winter all that much since I have got them, but I've been out on them maybe 8-12 times on all angles of ice and mixed to get used to them. I figured I'd write a review anyway since people are probable considering purchasing these tools at end of season rates.

Anyway, disclaimer aside, this is an amazing tool. The swing takes some getting used to as you want to flick these more then swing them since the head weight will sink them well without a huge swing. You really only need to sink the first 3-4 teeth to get a solid stick on good old NE brittle so that's where the flick is key.

On steep ice these tools really rip. They have such a radical curve that they really make a handle bar out of the grip only when you are on 90-100 degree ice. On lower angle ice, you will have some problems with the radical curve of the tool. This tool is NOT well suited for less than WI3 climbing which should be obvious just from looking at it.

On mixed terrain, the tool is awesome, particularly on radically overhanging rock. Sink this pick in a nice thin crack and pull down and it's as solid as a ladder rung. The pick pulls down hard and is quite stable on edges. Matching on this tool is comfortable and comes naturally from the geometry of the tool and the grip. These tools make simple work of many ice climbing activities that are typically akward, such as tight runnels and traverses.

To summarize, this is an agressive tool for agressive ice and mixed climbing. It is NOT a low angle ice tool, a beginner's tool or a tool for climbing gullies. Using this tool is forcing me to take my climbing to the next level. I highly recommend it.

mainefinn
Soloist

Registered: Tue Feb 7, 2006
Posts: 284

Review Date: Wed Jan 24, 2007

Recommend? yes | Price paid: Not Indicated | Rating: 10

Pros:	Stick, pick and swing
Cons:	low angle ice

You will hate it on low angle ice but the steeper it gets the sweeter the tool performs. I have climbed on quarks, vipers, prophets, cobras, hummingbirds, fusions and flys. The latter I owned for six years. The nomic sticks to everything, and I was very impressed with its performance in brittle ice with the head weights on. The only negative I have with this tool so far is the low angle ice, but at that point it should be all feet and lets remember what most of the routes were first climbed with. Leashless is the way to go and this tool is IT

vdotmatrix
Beginner

Registered: Wed Jan 24, 2007
Posts: 13

Review Date: Fri Feb 16, 2007

Recommend? yes | Price paid: Not Indicated | Rating: 10

Pros:	New and improved grip; adjustable grip; excellent swing; sticks are amazing; great balanced tool; grip diameter smaller; hole in handle for teathers in alpine conditions; removable pick weights.
Cons:	no hammer or adze; low angle use tentative

I swung the ERGOS for 5 days this year and loved those tools, then a window opened and I bought the new and improved NOMIC. They improved it for a reason and succeeded! The adjustable handle accomodates a nice warm glove, something of a stretch with the ERGOS. I can't say enough about this tool except it is the wave of the future!I swung the BD fusions, reactors and they were a bit too sticky which was a pain. The Nomics stuck well and released just as good! Man get these tools!

scotchrocks
green horn

Registered: Wed Nov 3, 2004
Posts: 43

Review Date: Wed Feb 21, 2007

Recommend? yes | Price paid: Not Indicated | Rating: 9

Pros:	swing weight, adjustable grip
Cons:	lack of hammer or spike

I agree with most of the commentary, but the lack of a hammer or spike makes this more of a cragging tool, or you must carry a third tool if you want or need those basics. You can't even really get a spectre in with the back of the head on this (although I have done so in desperation you are explicitly not supposed to). The variable grip is critical for those whose hands could not fit the older options. That said it swings best of all the leashless tools I've tried, sticks very well on ice and when dry tooling, and is well engineered to work at all three key grip points (they claim they have a tooth for each position). There is a promo DVD out there from Petzel and if you get a chance to see it there is a little Nomic ballet routine at the start which I defy you to watch without throwing a rod - you'll laugh so hard it hurts. The rest of the DVD is great stuff, as is the tool.

mainefinn
Soloist

Registered: Tue Feb 7, 2006
Posts: 284

Review Date: Wed Mar 7, 2007

Recommend? | Price paid: Not Indicated

Pros:
Cons:

After most of this season on these tools I need to correct part of my previous review regarding poor low angle ice performance. Turns out they are just fine, the grips almost make three tools in one and on super low angle bulges I go to the high grip, acts like my old Flys then and work back down the grips as things steepen. Have yet to get them stuck, well once I learned if you think they are stuck climb on them, mantle them, then grab them by the head and they come right out. Awesome tool.

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