NEice to bring you Ouray Ice Festival coverage! 

January 9-11th, 2009 - Ouray, Colorado.

Hundreds of photos, plus video and sound slideshows, brought to you in a special section of NEIce.

The pros! The parties! The gear! The exciting competition! All this and more. Online prize giveaways! Catch the excitement.

http://www.ourayicefestival.com/

Drytool training video.

Backyard fun, have you got the guns for this?

A couple NEIce members built an overhanging hand-crack training contraption out of 2x4's in the backyard in Monticello, Utah. A little cold weather, a case of PBR, and next thing you know - it's drytool training!

Video:Don't try this at Home!

11th Annual Catskills Ice Festival announced.

Alpine Endeavors has announced the 11th Annual Catskill Icefest for Feb 20-23, 2009.

This year the festival will have multiple clinics on all the skills and techniques you need to get out on ice - from basic skills, to dry-tooling, to gps navigation for those hard to get at routes.

Slide shows on Friday & Saturday evenings featuring adventures from Alaska to New Guinea.
http://www.alpineendeavors.com/events/Ice%20fest.html

New ice in the Adirondacks!
Matt Horner grabs first ice ascent of "Upper Partition", 5.8, on Giant Washbowl.

Matt Horner, with partner Jonas Morelli, rappelled down the Weissner Corner, Sat., Dec. 14, from the top of Giant Washbowl Cliff in Keene Valley, NY. to reach the base of the Upper Partition corner (rated a steep 5.8 in summer).  Horner then led back up the thin ice with bomber rock gear obtained by excavating ice out of the crack in the corner.  According to staff at The Mountaineer in Keene Valley, Morelli said he was unable to cleanly follow Horner's lead when the sun came out for 10 minutes and the ice became too unstable and detached to climb on.

Photo: Matt Horner and Jonas Morelli getting it done on Washbowl!

Stunts from the Past

1930's Stunt Man Video 

Lots of good buildering, tree climbing and stunts from the documentary film, Gizmo.

Plenty of Ice for Fun Climbing

Despite tough conditions in some areas for growing fat ice after warm spells, plenty of people are getting out and having fun!

Matt McCormick leads up the first pitch of "Promenade", WI5+, 140M, at Lake Willoughby, this past Saturday, Dec. 13, 2008.                                    Photo by Ian Austin.

Check out more photos in the NEice Photopost.

Good Early Season Ice Climbing is Here!

The ice is shaping up nicely in most locations. If you have not been out yet, it's time!

Matt Horner on "Power Play" 12/06/08 - Chaple Pond, Keene Valley NY

Cloudsplitter Mt. Guides

Photo by Emilie Drinkwater

13th annual Adirondack International Mountainfest (January 16-18)

“There are still openings in the clinics and shows”

This year’s event will be exceptional: we will be privileged to host guest athletes Conrad Anker, LP Ménard, Janet Bergman and Jim Shimberg as well as returning local guides Chuck Boyd, Emilie Drinkwater, Jeremy Haas, Carl Heilman, Matt Horner, Don Mellor, Jim Pitarresi and Jesse Williams, who will be teaching clinics on ice climbing, mountaineering, snowshoeing and avalanche awareness on Saturday and Sunday. Clinics must be pre-registered and they fill quickly, so call soon! More...

Accident on "Dracula"

Crawford Notch NH

Chris Dube, of Lexington Mass, was struck by falling ice and knocked unconscious. His brother Mike was leading Dracula at Frankenstein cliff in Crawford Notch NH when a piece of ice was knocked off hitting Chris in the head and breaking his helmet. He regained consciousness and was escorted to an ambulance and taken to the hospital for full evaluation. No word yet on his condition. We wish Chris the best. More......

Source: NEice Community Forum

"Musashi" M12

Daniel Dulac working on one of the world hardest route: "Musashi"

Source: Petzl Videos

NEice Server Overloaded! Upgrade Required

Well I knew this was coming. The server is starting to strain under the load this year and I will soon be forced to upgrade the server to keep NEice going.

More......

An up Date on the Fund Drive Lets keep it going, we are almost half way!

Telluride's Bridal Veil Falls Re-Opened to Climbing

Standing 365 feet over Telluride's Box Canyon, Bridal Veil Falls is Colorado's tallest free falling waterfall, and some would argue, one of the most classic and difficult ice climbs in the country. And it has been closed to climbing for the better part of a few decades, with the exception of a few brief openings. More....

Source: Access Fund Press Release

Screw Sharpening

Time to sharpen the gear and Griz does the best job I have seen and at a reasonable price. Do it now before the real ice comes...Doug

www.grizguides.com

Quote of the Week

"Well, I'll say this: climbing can kill you, but women can destroy you. There's a big difference, y'know".

Derek Hersey

The New Hampshire Route

Mahoney, Gilmore, and Wilkinson summit the North Face of Kangtega via the North Face!

"The New Hampshire Route AI 5+ R/X 1000M with a little mixed, climbed the North face to the upper East face to the summit of Kangtega 6,779M (22,241ft). The name came from the sustained cold nature of the face and “interesting conditions” that we experienced, both of which seem common on New Hampshire winter adventures". More....

Source: newhampshireiceclimbing.com/blog/

New Weather Outlook on NEice

The cold should continue into December. Still no long term warm ups in sight for the Northeast.

Check out the new Weather Outlook. Weather trends and forecasts related to ice conditions for the Northeast.

Sponsored by Stanislaw Photo

Thanks Smike

Polycarbonate Bottles unsafe for hot liquids

CINCINNATI—When it comes to Bisphenol A (BPA) exposure from polycarbonate plastic bottles, it’s not whether the container is new or old but the liquid’s temperature that has the most impact on how much BPA is released, according to University of Cincinnati (UC) scientists. More...

Source:Environmental News Network

Niagara Glen - bouldering access threatened.

According to a story in the Canadian newpaper Globe & Mail, a draft land management plan earlier this year, recommended that the Niagara Parks Commission "eliminate bouldering activities in the Niagara Glen."

Globe & Mail story - access threatened at Niagara.

Ontario Access Coalition

New Movie!

Play the movie

Alden Pellett put together this audio slideshow to get you excited for the upcoming ice season....Enjoy!

Fund Drive

NEice depends on individuals and businesses for support and is made possible through your donations. Please help us to continue bringing you the best photos, stories and information on ice climbing in the Northeast. If you use the site and want us to expand our efforts, bring you new features and information - make a donation today.

Yes, I want more ice on my computer this winter - NEice Donation

New Hampshire boys on Kangtega

Update: October 26, 2008 - Success!! Mahoney, Gilmore, and Wilkinson summit the North Face of Kangtega via the North Face! Congrats guys!

Nepal - October 21, 2008 - Kevin Mahoney, Ben Gilmore, and Freddie Wilkinson have been at advanced base camp (around 19,000′) for the past several days acclimatizing and staring at the cold, snowy, icy North Face of Kangtega( 22,250 feet) which rises out of the Khumbu and Hinku Valleys.  Mahoney said it kind of looks like Cannon Cliff after a snow storm. The expedition is funded in part by the trio's 16th Annual Mugs Stump Award Grant. Good luck, guys!

Map of Kangtega, Nepal

Source:Mahoney Alpine Adventures blog - newhampshireiceclimbing.com

Alpinist LLC to Suspend Operations

Jackson, Wyoming — October 16, 2008 — Alpinist LLC, which publishes the climbing magazine Alpinist, runs the website www.alpinist.com and produces The Alpinist Film Festival, announced today that the October 2008 financial crisis has forced them to suspend operations. More >

Source: alpinist.com

How Strong is Climbing Gear?

Kolin Powick is the Quality Assurance Manager at Black Diamond. A mechanical engineer originally from Canada, he now calls Salt Lake City home. On his off time he belays his wife while she warms up on his projects and he tests the real world durability of climbing gear. Read the article >

Source: gripped.com

Protect Upper West!

CRAG-VT has recently received approval from landowners and the Bolton Select Board to subdivide and purchase one of Vermont’s most popular and historic climbing areas – Upper West Bolton Cliff!

For decades Upper West has been one of the most highly valued climbing areas in Vermont. With exceptional views and a quiet, wild setting featuring sport climbs, traditional climbs, ice climbs, and an exceptional boulder field, it is one of our most important climbing areas. Read more >

Source: cragvt.com

GRAVSPORTS

The Canadian Rockies "Climbing Cycle"

by Will Gadd

Vote the Environment

Iraq, Budgets, Climate Change, Gas Prices, Health Care, Illegal Immigration, Domestic Economy, Abortion, Foreign Policy, Arctic Drilling … There are countless reasons to vote this year. But with so many polarizing issues in the world, it’s easy to overlook the one issue that might seem less important – the health of our natural environment. More >

Source: patagonia.com

Second Edition of "Climbing Management" Publication Now Available

The Access Fund is proud to announce the publication of the second edition of "Climbing Management: A Guide to Climbing Issues and the Production of a Climbing Management Plan." More >

Source: accessfund.org

Petzl Explorations

QUEBEC – CANADA

L'APPARTEMENT

Survey: Do You Support Recreation Fees on Federal Public Land?

The Access Fund wants to know what you think about the often-controversial issue of recreational use fees. Please take a few minutes to fill out the following survey. Your answers will help us accurately represent your interests at the Federal level.

Click here: www.surveymonkey.com

Mahoney Alpine Adventures

KEVIN'S CLIMBING BLOG

Big Expedition, Fred Hutchinson Climb

The New SARKEN crampons

The new SARKEN crampons will be available beginning June 2008

Source: Petzl.com

It won’t be long now, the days are getting shorter!

On June 20th at 7:59 pm EDT the Solstice occurred. The longest day of the year. For ice climbers it’s good news, the days are getting shorter - Doug Millen

A Busy Month for Turgeon in the Alaska Range

by Maxime Turgeon

Source: Alpinist.com

New Treatment for Severe Frostbite Shows Promise

Source: The American Alpine Club

The Crag Rag - June 2008 (pdf)

Featured in this issue - The second annual Smuggler’s Notch Ice Bash

Join CRAG-VT for 2008!
Your tax-deductable donation of $15 or more will help cover the cost of the Bolton Quarry and other local access efforts. Membership info

Source: Crag Vermont

Vote the Environment Video - Spread it Far and Wide

Source: Patagonia video - YouTube

It's winter on the other side of the planet

Photos: Pinnacles, Mt. Ruapehu, NZ

EastCoastBastard - May 2008

Mount Willard NH - Little Big Mountain

Three days on Mt. Willard in March reminded me why it is one of the best little mountains around.

Kevin Mahoney - Mahoney Alpine Adventures

Earth Day 2008

Below are a few links to get you thinking on this Earth Day.

http://www.google.com/earthday08/

Leave No Trace

TreeHugger Interview with Y.C.

Source: The Cleanest Line.com

NEice Ranks 4th among some popular climbing sites

Source: Alexa.com - April 21, 2008

Used Pick Contest

The Votes have been Cast

The winners are Sleeve, for the Hoe and Mike R for his Sconces. Great job and both were very creative. Thanks to all who participated.

The winners will receive a pair of new picks for their ice tools.

View the photos – The vote

5 Minutes with Rob Cordery-Cotter

Rob tells us what he thinks about Mixed Climbing.

View the PDF File

More: Front Page Archives 2007-2008