A great video and report on the forces at work on slings in four different belay set-ups.
SLINGS AT ANCHORS October 4, 2013
In a previous video we compared the impact forces generated using nylon and Dyneema® slings with a dynamic load. It clearly highlighted the importance of ensuring there is no slack in a system using slings. As an example, a 85 kg mass free-falling just 60 cm on to a 60 cm Dyneema sling (fall-factor 1), with an overhand knot in it, generated enough force to break the sling.
Extending this previous theme we’ve looked at using nylon and Dyneema® slings in four different belay set-ups
I have always tied in with both ropes and used clove hitches…seems like this is the best way to tie in.