This year fatter than ever. Believe it or not, ice touches the ground. I'm talking of a route my friends had tried for years and they liked to call it «Solstice». Witch means the longest or shortest day of the year (shortest light and longest climb in this case !).

Supernova is an aid climb very close that crosses the Solstice. From the butttrest, Snova goes right on a ramp to another bolted line. At the ledge were the route meet, there are two bolts to belay on (Snova bolts). Solstice, starts straight from the buttrest on shitty overhanging ice to moderate mushroom than another kind of too steep curtain of detached candles to the belay ledge. (New bolts were put in place on this pitch sunday). From this ledge, Snova climbs on the left on rock and turf to a rightfacing diedral that leads to a flow of ice on the left (some years, this flow is thicker than the one at right). Solstice goes straight up from the belay ledge on ice column and dagger to easier ice that becomes slaby higher. Again, the 2 routes meet at the base of the last section witch is a short steep pillar.

So I think we can call this Solstice a new route because the line and the style (free) is very different than Supernova. It's sad we've put in bolts when the climb is totally done on ice. But considering the thickness and poor quality of screws in that so steep ice, it makes this climb «safer» than a constant ground fall solo climb, what it would've been ! Everybody still have the choice to clip it or not though. Also, this year it's fatter than ever. So if we think about when the ice won't be that fat, we still have a climbable route. This year, in excellent conditions, two partys of experienced climbers backup after 2 meter on the steep section (when you get close to it, you understand everything !) So now and for the years to come, we got happy and alive climbers better than emminent dead soloist ! Go climb it and you'll see: it's very hard, it's commiting and it's a lot of fun. We don't have plenty of route of this quality, grade and type around...
See further post message for pictures and beta

Climb safe

Olivier Ouellette and Sebastien Nantel

There are 2 obscure rock routes in this vicinity as well, perhaps while doing these ice routes you have seen evidence of them? Around 1985 Chris Rowins, Steve Schneider and I established 2 lines. Both are just a short distance right of Called's first pitch. Begin both climbs about 30 meters up 5.7 terrain on a small ledge with a 2 bolt belay. From there there is an uncompleted aid line that climbs rivets to a big #5 Camalot flake and more rivets leading above to a dead end- it's uncompleted. The other route went to the top and leaves the right side of the first pitch belay ledge and climbs up 15 feet to a poorly placed bolt (bent), then continues for a full 60 meters to small tree ledge. Another 75 meter pitch brings you to the top. This line was entirely free, all bolts placed from free stances, and went at scary 5.10+.

Hello mister Tikka.
I don't think we are talking about the same thing here. (?) The lines you describe seem closer to Called than solstice. We did not see a 2 bolts belay on the first ledge. Getting to the 2 bolt belay we used must be much harder than 5.7. We did not see place for a #5 neither. I think these lines are between Solstice/Supernova and Called. I'll find a picture at home that i took from the lake 2 years ago and we could show each other the lines more efficiently. Anyway man, congratulation for your back in the days super climb. No doubt it was bold and scary.
I'll get back soon with the pictures so we could clarify everything.
Cheers
Olivier Ouellette

Tikka,

Nope, that is not the same thing. you are talking about the area of 5 Musketeers route. There was orange/red rope hanging there for a while.
Super Nova(Solstice?) are probably at least a hundred meters south of Called.

I joined up at the base with the Weekend Wackers(Matt and Josh from NH) for an ascent of Super Nova(WI6)on Saturday. They were nice enough to let me tie in for one of the best top-ropes of my life. Strong leads by these boys were impressive to watch as I brought up the rear, leading through on the easy top pitch when they let the old guy on the sharp end to finish the route, taking us 3 pitches with a little bit of simul-climbing at the top.
This is an amazing route and one to be relished and sought after. The position on the wall is airy with a wide view of the surroundings. We found, despite worse conditions than those claiming the first free ascent found, that their grading was a bit soft by consensus. No levitation techniques or nitro button were needed. The second pitch short cruxy section has a wonderful no hands rest at the topmost bolt.(unneeded and recently placed. Good gear or a screw are possible) 2 moves from there out the short, fat hanger and it's over. This is not nearly the fearsome grade of 6+!!! Our consensus was (WI6, WI5+, WI4/4+) with Matt running the rope on the first pitch to the anchors at midheight.
The Wackers duo just got back from sending French Reality in the Canadian Rockies(WI6+) among other routes, so they know. (By the way, if I were you, I wouldn't let them anywhere near any of your projects. )

Olivier's earlier post about their ascent of the route says of those who went before them, "... two partys of experienced climbers backup after 2 meter on the steep section." What he fails to describe is that at this point they placed 2 bolts which were not there 2 days earlier when someone else backed off in much worse weather.
Anyhow, the line is a fantastic route that would be at home in the Canadian Rockies.(even if it is a bit of a sport climb ). In the end, Olivier and Sebastien have left us with a safer route that hopefully, if we're lucky, will form every year. It's still in very climbable condition - so have at it, folks!
Special thanks to the Super Nova FA boys who froze their you-know-whats off a few years back putting it up in the first place! The cool thing was that John Sykes, who was on the FA of that wall, was there to cheer on Matt as he started up.

Hello everyone. I think it's though to be entertaining and clear at the same time. So this time, i'll be clearer and boring. Like you guys love detailed details....

Last Saturday: Climbed the buttrest to the first steep section. Notices other came and didn't go higher. We back up to and came back the next day with tools to place bolts if needed.

Last Sunday: Got up urly in the morning. Climbed to the top of the buttrest. Placed a bolt about 3 meters from the buttrest. Places a bolt about 2 meters higher. Placed a screw (13cm), and another screw (16cm ?). Then placed another bolt on the right (about 12 meters form the buttrest. Went in the curtain. Placed a screw (?cm) witch didn't seem so good. Placed a bolt on the right (about 5 meters higher than the last one) Climbed the final steep. Placed a screw in the mushroom. Did make some popcicles fall to get onto the ledge then cliped the anchor (already in place).

Other pitch: Cliped a bolt (already there) at the bottom of the column and put a sling around it. Climbed the column. Place a screw on the top out. Place rock gear on the ledge. Climbed beside the dagger. Placed a bolt (witch i'm not so proud of, because after all, ice is better than expected after this dagger. The bottom section showed me good reason to place some bolts, and i expected the next passage to be similar. I was wrong i guess but i wouldn't complain about cliping it. And it's not every day you bring a drill, so for the next (maybe) thinner years, it could be appreciate ? Sorry for this dirty pollution. Also noticed a place to place rock gear further on the left but was almost all covered with ice. Also found the no hand rest (how i placed that bolt though ?!) After the Dagger, Placed a screw (13cm reached the rock) and climbed all the rest with only screws.
Did an intermediate anchor about 45 meters from the ledge.
Exchanged the lead with Sebastien. He went to the base of the last pillar with not that much energy to commit in a runnig belay. So he set a anchor on the right. I joined him and finished the culumn on the left side in the dark. Did a anchor on ice higher as it was difficult for me to see good trees. Rapped of a V-tread. To the intermediate anchor. Another V-tread. To the ledge. Rapped off around the column to the ground.

Went back on the route today.
First pitch quit similar difficulties. Ice features fell of last days for the first part (bolt protected) The other section is quit similiar. The ice seemed a bit more breakable but as all the holes for hooking and littles steps where already there ...! Overall, I found it a lot easier. By the way, other party be carefull as the section betwenn the 2 higher bolts seem wanting fall. Felt bit piece of ice detach from the wall and about to f..k away. Be carefull abour sunny weather. At our suprise, we found some slings and rapp rings on the bolts belay (witch were judged unnecessary because it's possible to rapped around the coloumn (!) but we don't care much as further years may not permit rapping of the column so we don't talk about it. ) Also found the pitch easier as steps and hooks were there (wasn't on the FA) and i knew the ice was better up there and safer (wasn't on the FA). Tunrinig around on the dag, as i hooked in a hole, one of my pic sudenly teared of the ice and poped. So i was now all in my other pic at the bolt heigh (sorry for the english quality !) I don't want to justified at any price but i think this kind of situation could happen in the futur too. Anyway. (Sorry again for that pollution).
Going to the next anchor was about the same thing as last Sunday. Samething for the other pitch, witch goes better in the very center and on the right to exit. My friend did another V-tread higher than the one we've put in last week. He didn't found it because it was all covered with snow. Sorry for that pollution again. We found a sling with two biners on a lower tree. (In case we were lying about going to the very top i guess !!)
Got back to the ground !

I agreed with my partner that the second pitch could be downgraded as the ice is better and the protection is there. Funky moves won't bring it to 6+ i admit. I think i got flabergasted by the entire thing the other day. But anyway, the overall rating would still be the same. And I quite insist that it's another thing than Supernova. the bolted line of supernova can clearly be see at the right of Solstice.

As a resume of my vision on the situation, i would say that i'm not ashamed. Knowing SOME stories about climbing at the lake and looking at a wall covered with bolts at no significant places (bolted flakes, or crack) and not much use of these bolted lines we don't know much about, i think we still did a great job. After waiting for this route to form well for 5 years, this years conditions were exeptionnal. We could not let it go this time. And somebody got to wake up (!) and set things up. We fell down to the Dark Side deciding to do the climb with fixe protection (Bolts). Considering the usual shape of the route, we tryed to think about the futur of the route and its climbers. Trying to place the bolts on reasonable places and distance. Some mistakes may have occur but i think the futur will tell us best. It's always easier to say «I wouldn't have done it this way». But we cannot change anything about the past. We must look forward. I'll certainely learn about my mistakes though. As some did thanked Sykes for his (?) bolts, maybe someday, a climber in the need would do the same talking about ours. Maybe. It will certainly not be some «a bit disapointed» US climbers not happy to see Québécois robing THEIR dream pure FA with a drill and a wake-up alarm watch ! Let's say this route is now a technical more than commitment dare. And ITS EVERYONE now ! Not mine more than yours (whoever you all are), everyone. It's true that this climb can be compared with some we find in the rockies. Take this one as a training and go kick some canadians ass. Get yourself pumped by those intense lock-off and let's not waist more time crash talking about details or about the size of my balls ! We'll save some energy we need to climb stronger ! I think we can expect other great things to happen this year, loooking at the awsome season beginning we have. Let's just try not to succomb to ego wars and comparison staying in a frienship and respect mind.

Beware of the sun for Solstice. It won't take much for this route to fall off so hurry up and keep an eye on the weather.

I wish you a merry Xmass and a happy new year.
See you at the cliff and climb safe.

Well

Nice work, Well! Doing it again! Hey, let's face it, it takes cajones to go up on any big ice climb like that, regardless. No-one has questioned if you have the guts to climb hard. It's just a difference in styles. I wouldn't have drilled but that's my style of ice climbing. I personally think it's ok in the end that you added the newer bolts since there already were bolts up there from previous ascents and bolts added by who knows? If there hadn't been any, it would be a different matter to me. Maybe you're upset with me but I'm just trying to set the public record straight that while it is clearly a difficult and challenging route, it is more of a sport climb compared to many of the other hard routes at Willoughby. I do thank Sykes and Farley for their anchor because we all used his anchor and they obviously made it easier for you and us to get up it faster and safely. Hey, It's an exciting route! No doubt about it. I'm psyched to have been up it.

For the record:
My partner and I had gone there the Friday before you had seen it, knowing it had formed up. If he and I had approached it with the same style as you and your partner did by taking a drill, it would have been done that day. Also, My partner could have come back the next day with a drill and a different partner. On Sunday, a buddy and I came back(on the same day you guys did it) to attempt it once more. Again, without a drill. Yes, humorously, we arrived late, lazy cuss that I was that day. ...and I really didn't think someone else would be on it. Oops! LOL.

As I said, I think it's a great route and clearly an impressive-looking route and I'm sure that because of the safety of it, more people will do it. There are more potential routes still to do at the Lake when things form. Hopefully, people will not drill them. Imagine if people had drilled on Called on Account of Rains and China Shop. Yes, we'd see more ascents but would it mean as much?

I agree with this completely. (Style, yourself, ethic, bolts, anchor and meaning of some climbs.)

Not upset at anyone.

Happy to climb this awsome route and hope to see it back there each year !! Happy to see other people share same exitment and fun to climb this type of route in our « backyard ». Having great¸expectations for the futur !

Enjoy climbing in holidays everybody
Cheers

Olivier

Nice work on that route Oliver and Sebastian!!! I am blown away! Thanks so much for opening that line! Wow, I am so glad I backed off that route before you guys geared it up; there's no way I would want to be on that rig without the bolts! I climbed it today with Shim and Adam. It's phenomenal! I agree that the thing is falling apart! Anyone that wants to do it should get on it NOW! I think the first pitch is SOLID WI 6+. The thing is totally out-there. And, about it being a sport climb: that is hilarious! The run-outs even with the bolts are up to 25'! It's a serious and radical line! There really is something for everyone at the Lake! I must say that in my opinion Solstice is that hardest and most spectactular ice climb in the Northeastern USA! Again, OUTSTANDING job, Oliver and Sebastian, thanks!

Enjoy,
will

SOLID 6+? ...Will, is that on a Rumney scale?