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Mixed |
Ice |
Aid |
Protection |
Commitment |
M8? How hard is that?
One of the questions I am asked most
often involves the mixed climbing grades. Mixed climbing has
become very popular lately. Below is my consensus of the mixed
climbing grades and will be used as a reference for this web
site. I would be glad to receive any comments on how to fine
tune this standard so that we all may benefit from it.
M
ratings were created to correspond with the Yosemite Decimal
System. But remember that an M5 grading, for instance,
is NOT a 5.9 rock climb but FEELS as difficult as a 5.9 rock
climb regarding necessary strength, ability and experience.
Climbing in winter is more difficult due to the required
clothing, tools and all the extra weight of winter gear, and
these issues are part of the equation
Doug Millen
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Mixed Grades:
M1-M11 |
M1.
Feels like 5.5 climbing.
M2.
Feels like 5.6 climbing.
M3.
Feels like 5.7 climbing.
M4.
Feels like 5.8 climbing.
M5.
Feels like 5.9 climbing; using the blades of
ice axes in cracks to torque and dry-hook is useful.
M6.
Feels like 5.10 climbing; using the blades of
ice axes in cracks to torque and dry-hook is mandatory.
M7.
Feels like 5.11 climbing; using ice axes and crampons in such a
way as to make the climb impossible with out
them. Usually somewhat overhanging.
M8.
Feels like 5.12 climbing; using ice axes and crampons in such a
way as to make the climb impossible without them. Involves
overhanging and sustained climbing.
M9.
Feels like 5.13 climbing, using ice axes and crampons in such a
way as to make the climb impossible without them. Involves
severely sustained and extremely overhanging climbing.
M10.
Similar to 5.14 climbing; gymnastic ability, physical stamina,
and a strong mind are all prerequisites; a handful of climbers
in the world are capable of climbing this grade.
M11.
?, The system is open ended...
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Ice Grades:
WI
1-7 |
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WI 1 Easy, low-angled ice. Walking up ice where
crampons are necessary. The easiest ice for which a belay rope
would be used. A basic level of technical expertise for safety
is required. General angle: 50 degrees.
WI 2 Moderate,
low-angled water ice with short bulges. Good protection
and anchors. Front-points of the crampons may or may not
be required. General angle: 60 degrees.
WI 3 Steeper water ice, with longer bulges. Some
continuous front pointing but with good resting places between.
Generally good protection, screws can be placed from comfortable
stances. The ice is usually of good quality.
Requires adeptness at placing protection and making belays.
General angle: 70 degrees.
WI 4 Sustained climbing with
some vertical sections, separated by good belays. The ice may
have some technical features like chandeliers but generally the
quality of ice is good and offers secure protection and belays.
Usually demands that screws be placed while on vertical or near
vertical ice. General angle: 80 degrees.
WI 5 A long, steep, strenuous, columnar pitch
of ice. Sustained difficulties with little opportunity to rest.
Expertise in dealing with the different ice formations is
required (e.g., chandeliers, cauliflowers, candled sections).
Adequate protection requires effort to place. The climb
may sometimes be run-out above protection. Belays may be
difficult to create and/or hanging. General angle: 90
degrees.
WI 6 A serious lead on severe and/or thin
ice. Long vertical and/or overhanging sections, extremely
sustained difficulties. Few, if any, resting sites.
Ice may not be of the best quality, often thin, chandeliered and
hard to protect. Expert technique and a powerful, positive mind
frame are prerequisites. Hanging belays of dubious quality
may be required. General angle: 90+ degrees.
WI 7 Ice that is very thin, long, overhanging
or very technical. Free-hanging columns of dubious
adhesion. This grade requires creative techniques to climb
and to find protection. Protection may be non-existent.
A very physical and emotional pitch. Total commitment is
required. Belays require a very high level of expertise,
and may be marginal at best. This grade applies to only a
handful of routes led by an even fewer number of world class
climbers. WI 7 is the outer space of ice climbing.
General angle: 90++ degrees.
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Aid ratings:
A1-A5 |
There are two aid
rating systems being employed today: Traditional Aid (A), and
Clean Aid (C). Traditional Aid allowing use of a hammer;
Clean Aid does not involve use of a hammer. Otherwise, the
two seem to correspond well with the numbers:
A/C1. Straightforward
aiding; secure gear and lots of it; little chance of
falling.
A/C2. More involved
aiding; minor traverses and/or overhangs; secure gear and
lots of it; length of potential fall from crux is short.
A/C3.
Technical aiding; traverses and/or overhangs; gear less than
optimal; climbing may be thin with run-outs above secure
gear; somewhat lengthy potential fall from crux.
A/C4.
Very difficult technical aiding; major roofs and/or
traverses; poor gear with long run-outs; length of potential
fall from the crux may be as long as a full pitch.
A/C5.
Involves aid climbing which defies death; a fall would be
onto the belay or the ground.
** a plus sign
(+) or a minus sign (-) may be used within a(n) A/C grade to
indicate a greater or lesser degree of difficulty,
respectively.
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Protection ratings: E,
G, R, X |
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In
the works |
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Commitment ratings:
UIAA I-VII |
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Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme
(UIAA) seems to be the
standard from which most commitment ratings are
drawn. The commitment rating is intended to
describe the overall time commitment of a particular
route, including the approach and descent
logistics. Generally, the UIAA scheme has been
adapted herein in a continued attempt to accord
with more widespread rating systems. While there
are few, if any, ice routes in the Northeast which
are more commiting than grade III, the entire scale
has been paraphrased here as a reference:
I.
Route which may be completed in a matter of a few
hours.
II. Route which may be completed
in half a day.
III. Route which may require an
entire a day.
IV. Route which may be done in a
very long day by a fast team, but a bivouac may
be needed by teams of average speed.
V.
Route which will require at least one bivouac on the
route. May require two or three days to
complete the route.
VI. Very long alpine climb taking
as long as a week to complete.
VII. An alpine climb of epic
proportions.
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