French Tickler

Location:  Smuggler's Notch, VT

Grade:  M6, WI5, A0

Height:  200'

As Climbed By:  Alden Pellett and Dave Furman, December 1999

Description:  French Tickler lies between Scream Queen and Dominatrix, on wall left of Grand Illusion in Smuggler's Notch. Starting at the ramp at the base of Dominatrix, Dave led up and right below a roof with a small free-hanging pillar.  Several mixed hooking moves bring you under the roof and overhanging wall (bolt placed on lead).  Reaching out and getting a good tool in the pillar, it promptly fell off when Dave weighted it, dropping about 6 feet worth of ice tonnage down Easy Gully.  Without the pillar this overhanging section went with one move of A0 off a piton.  Very pumpy, overhanging ice moves followed above to easier but thin ice in a corner and much relief at a flat belay stance.  The next pitch climbed 15 feet up to a flake below overhanging rock then out left a move or two, then step down to good feet and a very steep airy traverse left into the hanging corner.  Relatively easy climbing up and out left gained the top half of the upper ice pitch of Dominatrix to finish in the trees.  With the pillar, the route would certainly be easier but no less committing at the crux.

Descent:  Rappel from trees with two ropes.

Photo by Alden Pellett / Dave Furman leading on the first ascent