Dominarrix

Location:  Smuggler's Notch, VT

Grade:  M6, WI4

Height:  200'

As Climbed By:  Alden Pellett and Dave Furman, 1998

Description: One of the most exposed and atmospheric routes in smugglers notch. approach: The route is visible high on the wall left of Grand Illusion, although the crux first pitch is hidden from view. Hike to the stone hut, follow trail up snow gully until reaching a trail Left below the base of Grand Confusion, a one pitch grade 3 ice climb. This trail leads to Easy Gully. Follow the gully past the fork--the right fork is Grand Illusion (one 60 m pitch WI 4) which makes a decent consolation prize if the route isn't to your liking. Climb over a chock stone as the gully narrows, aiming for the most obvious flow of ice high on the Right wall of the gully. P.1 This pitch varies with conditions--rumor has it it has been climbed as an ice pillar, and various ice conditions may change the line of least resistance. The description is typical of the past several years. If the route is fat, climb thin ice up the ramp to a short, steep headwall with a thin crack in it. If thin, tool up the arch on the R. to join the headwall crack. Climb past this to join the ice a few feet higher. Belay from a good ledge at about 90' if conditions permit, or (more likely) scrape together a solid, if somewhat laborious hanging belay from rock gear, probably below and left of the ledge. M6 WI 4 thin. P.2 Climb the glorious ice flow to the top. WI 4 or 4+. Descent: 

Descent:  Rap the route from a tree (160'), or scramble left through the cave to descend Easy Gully Season: The upper pitch is as consistent as any in the notch, but the lower section has been fickle. Snowmelt will bring the first pitch into condition, possibly causing the second to be hollow and detached. It is often possible to climb the slender hanging pillar and corner to the R. and join the upper ice flow--this variation is called French Tickler (M6 WI 4), and consistently forms early in the season. Rack: Bring it all--pins heavy on the blades, wires up to thin cams (hand size cams for French Tickler), and screws including several stubbies.

Photo by  Dave Furman,  Alden Pellett leading