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Creighton-Korman
Route
Location: Smuggler's
Notch, VT
Grade:
III, WI 5
Height:
260'
Directions:
Take Rte. 108 South from Jeffersonville,
or North from Stowe. The highway through the notch is closed
during the winter months. The approach ski is about a mile
from either side.
Season:
The column of the third pitch is
rarely
completely formed; but, the route's nature allows for mixed
ascents under lean conditions as well.
Route
Description: While a direct runnel has been known to
form and needs no description, the following describes the ascent
line in the huge right-facing corner made by the South face of
Elephant's Head Buttress: P1(90') Climb up ice bulges
angling left into the base of the corner to fixed pins. P2(70')
Climb up moderate (yet often thin) ice smears in the corner to
another fixed station. P3(100') Climb out right on ice
bulges, and up the obvious crux column to the trees.
Gear: A modest rock and standard ice rack is advisable.
Descent:
Rappel from trees then pins or
bollards; or, make the bushwhack around either North or
South and downclimb gullies.
First
Ascent: Rick Wilcox's guidebook, An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New
England, cites Geoff Creighton and Josh Korman and the Local's Guide to Smugglers Notch Lists John Bouchard and Steve Zajchowski and is called Ragna Rock.
Bob Otten on the last pitch. Photo by Doug Millen
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