Location: Cathedral Ledge, North Conway, NH
Grade: WI 5+, 5.7, A0
Height: 380'
Directions: From the south/east take Rt. 16N/302W into North Conway.
Take a left at the light after EMS to Cathedral Ledge. Or, from the north/west, take Rt.
16S/302E into North Conway, take a right before EMS. There are road signs indicating the
way to Cathedral and Whitehorse ledges. Furthermore, one can easily see the cliff from
town.
Season: This is a fickle climb that only forms after a prolonged cold
spell and can vanish with a single warm day.
Route Description: P1 (120') Climb the prominent corner right of
Repentence to a fixed pin at the top. One point of aid may be needed here to reach around
the arete to the right to reach the ice. Continue up thin ice and belay at a fixed station
at a ledge on the right. P2 (70') Climb up moderate ice bulges to a fixed station on a
sloping ledge below and right of the crux column. P3 (120') Climb the freestanding column
up into the chimney from which it pours to a belay at a tree in the chimney. P4 (70') Walk
up into the deep chimney, and pull one last series of steep dry-tooling moves over the
chockstone.
Gear: A full rock and ice rack is usually necessary. Don't forget your
nuts!
Descent: Hike around the practice slabs to the north.
