Way In The Wilderness

Kancamangus Highway, NH

60m WI5 II

Doug Millen Climbing. Photo by Jim Cullem

Location: Painted Walls, Kancamangus Highway, NH

Grade: WI 5

Height: 200'

Directions: Find the Kancamangus Highway, Rte. 112, from Conway from the east or No. Woodstock from the west. The wall cannot be missed on the north side of the road. Park at the Lower Falls lot, cross the river, and hike up the hill toward the beacon of towering white ice.

Season: A fickle route needing prolonged cold to form. It's southwestern exposure makes is very susceptible to sun damage, and can be dangerous even when the ambient temperature is below freezing.

Route Description: P1(WI5, 200'): Climb the columnar flow up into the groove-cum-chimney system from which it flows. There is a fixed station on a ledge on the left at mid-height for sun-bathing, or the route can be done in one spectacular pitch.

Gear: Full column ice rack is needed. Bring a few medium/large nuts or small cams - there's good rock gear available where needed.

Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes from rappel rings and slings on a pine on the right.

First Ascent: Jim Dunn, Michael Hartrich, and Peter Cole; February, 1978.