Classic Climbs

 

Positive Thinking

PT 2.jpg (23799 bytes)

Location: Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks, NY

Grade: WI 5

Height: 420’

Directions: Poke-O lies on the west side of Rte. 9 between Keeseville and Elizabethtown. It can easily be seen from I-87 (take the Keeseville exit and drive 1 mile south on Rte. 9 to the ledge). Park and hike in at the campground - please do not walk through the private property north of the campground.

Season: Positive Thinking faces east and receives the morning sun. It’s first pitch is often not in shape; but, the column is usually climbable from December till March.

Route Description: P1(150’) climbs the sustained (typically thin) smear to a large ledge and fixed belay on the right. P2(120’) steps up the bulges and surmounts the short vertical column to an ice/rock belay (often in the off angle chimney on the left). P3(150’) continues up to the trees with decreasing steepness. (Alternates include the 5.9 handcrack to the near right of the smear, and the Half Mile traverse dike from the far left.)

Gear: When in good shape, nothing but a normal/thin ice rack will suffice. Half Mile requires an alpine rock rack. PT Handcrack requires a full set of cams and large nuts (PT Pillar takes a fat nut where it can be reached; the shallow roof on the right at 1/3 height takes a medium nut (fixed)).

Descent: Hike around to the south and down the prominent descent gully just north of the Waterfall.

    

Photo by Doug Millen