Grade: 5+ (variant P1: 5.8)

Height: 400’

Directions: From the north, take I-93 South. Park at the "Trailhead Parking" south of the Old Man lookout exits. From the south, take I-93 North. Park at the "Boise Rock" exit.

Season: Omega is a capricious route. Partially due to its SE exposure, it typically requires significant cloud cover, heavy runoff, and sustained cold temperatures to form. Even with cold temperatures, a single morning of direct sun can destroy the first pitch.

Route Description: The Direct P1 (150’) climbs the thin ice smear up onto the slab, surmounts the overlap and continues up to a fixed station on the left. The Variant P1 (140’) climbs the broken rock corner on the right to a fixed station. P2 (120’) climbs up under the roof, steps out right onto an ice-encrusted hanging block (crux), then back left onto the vertical column. P3 (130’) climbs up to and over the last awkward bulge to the trees.

Gear: A full rack of short screws and an alpine rock rack including pins is advisable.

Descent: Hike up to join the Whitney-Gilman descent trail and walk around to the south or rap the climb.