Classic Climbs

La Pomme d'Or

Location: Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs, Charlevoix, Québec

Grade: IV, WI5+

Height: 330m (1,100')

Route Description: The upper route is generally quite wide, and so, allows several variations. A good plan of attack should allow time for a substantial rest at the base of the summit pillars because first pitches are substantially more taxing, especially in brittle ice conditions, than their ratings would suggest. The route funnels any ice fall into the gully at the base, and given the large amount of hanging ice on the top, this climb should only be attempted in cold conditions, preferably without strong morning sun (route faces east). Aspirant parties should be strong and fast because the climb is much longer than you think.

Pitch Description:

1. Climb a narrow gully to lower angled ice/snow, and start up the slab angling back left toward the ramp above. WI4, 60m
2. Continue up moderate ice to the base of the ramp.  This pitch can be thin ice or mixed (M3). WI3, 60m
3. Climb the long and very sustained ramp to a fixed belay at its top, passing an intermediate belay. WI4+, 70m
4. Launch onto the column directly above to a fixed belay on pins on the left. WI5+, 50m
5. Surmount the next vertical column to a fixed belay on pins on the left. WI5+, 50m
6.  Continue up ice mushrooms/umbrellas to summit at the trees. WI5, 40m

Variations:  There are several options up high in good years; difficult "Lacelle Variation" to the right; more moderate choice up the gully on the left; options are grades WI5 through WI6.

Gear: 12 to 16 screws (plan on back to back belays of screws) and a small selection
of pins (blades, arrows, angles).

Map: http://quebecweb.com/relais/images/carte.jpg

Season:  December to March, with best conditions found in January and February.

Approach:  Meet skidoo at 5am. Leave on skidoos at 5:30am.  Drop off at 6am.  Approach hike 45 minutes.  Head left of the gully up the talus field until almost to the base.  Cut right through a short wooded section and traverse right into the approach gully and up to the base of the route. This avoids extremely deep snow in the direct gully approach.

Descent:  Raps and belays are in place later in the season. Early ascents may need to leave threads low on descent, but there are fixed anchors at the third, fourth, and fifth belays.  Top rappel is off slings on a gnarly old tree. Using fixed stations up high, rappel may be done in six long and one short rappels.

First Ascent:  Kurt Winkler & Jim Tierney 1980.

Transport: 
Roland Lavoie is now retired from the snowmobile ride! Sport Action Charlevoix 418-439-4660 will offer to ride people in for 75$ per person ( the same price as Roland charged last year ) You can also rent a ski-doo from them for 218$ for the first day (tax and gas included) and 188$ for the second and following days. J-F Morin.

Accomodation:

A U B E R G E LE RELAIS DES HAUTES-GORGES
317 rue principale,
Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs, Charlevoix, Québec, Canada, G0T 1S0
Tél: 418-439-5110
Free: 800-889-7655
Fax: 418-439-3367
web: http://quebecweb.com/relais/introfranc.html
2 people with breakfast $68cdn; 2 people with dinner and breakfast $110cdn.
This auberge is friendly to ice climbers and prepares a very nice meal.  It mostly caters to snowmobilers as a lunch stop or an overnighting spot.

Weather:

http://www.weatheroffice.com/canfcsts/fpcn13.cwqb.html
http://www.weatheroffice.com/canfcsts/fpcn54.cwqb.html
http://www.weatheroffice.com/free/regions/quebec/quebecSatellite.htm
http://www.weatheroffice.com/free/regions/quebec/QuebecRadar.htm
http://www.theweathernetwork.com/
http://www.weatheroffice.com/

Road Conditions:

http://www.mtq.gouv.qc.ca/etat_routes

Guide Services:

(www.m_boiteau@hotmail.com)

Cirrus Mer et Montagne
206, rue Ruisseau-des-Fresnes,
Sainte-Agnès, Québec, G0T 1R0, Canada
418-439-2949

Guide Aventure
250 Racine est c.p. 366
Chicoutimi, Québec Canada G7H 5C2
Tél: 418-549-7512
Sans frais: 1 888 545-4803
Téléc.: (418) 549-3085
URL: www.guideaventure.com
Email: informations@guideaventure.com

Parc régional des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-rivière-Malbaie:  418-439-4402

Rock Gym:
La Montagne en ville Roc Gym (École d'escalade l'Ascensation)
2350, ave. du Colisée, Québec
Tél:    418-647-4422
Toll Free: 800-665-4420

Camping:

Camping Parc régional des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie
Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs (418) 439-4402
Camping Sport Action Charlevoix
Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs (418) 439-4712

-by John C. Mallery (jcma@ai.mit.edu) with route description revisions by Stephane Lapierre (lapierres@cgmatane.qc.ca)

Photo by Jean-Francois Moin