Location: Smuggler's Notch, VT
Grade: WI3
Height: 200'
Description: A two mile approach hike, short
bushwhack, a deep low angle gully and a ten foot curtain of vertical ice
describes this alpine experience. The route lies on the North side
of Elephant's Head Buttress in the deep gully. Bushwhack East to the
base of the route (crux) from just South of the top of the notch.
P1(100',WI2) Climb up the gully beneath the North side of towering
buttress. P2(100',WI3) Climb the curtain on the easier right side, or
slightly harder left side (one move of vertical November ice guaranteed!).
Gear: A modest alpine rock rack; a thin ice rack.
Descent: Rappel from trees and icicles; or, hike
North from top of gully 300', then down climb a gully directly above the top
of the notch.
