Classic Climbs

Called On Account of Rains 

Will Mayo on the 1st Pitch.

Photo by Alden Pellette.

The top half of the climb - Photo by Doug Millen

Location: Mt. Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT

Grade: IV, WI 5+

Height: 500'

Directions: From the south, take exit 23 off I-91, route 5 north through Lyndonville, to West Burke and a right turn onto 5A north which passes beneath the west face of Mt. Pisgah, along the eastern shore of the Lake.  >From the north, take exit 28 off I-91 for Derby Center or exit 26 at Orleans.  Either way, head east to join 5A south to reach the Lake.

Season: The upper columns are as reliable as any ice at Willoughby; there must be a prolonged cold spell to form them, but there's plenty of water.  The lower section is usually not in shape however.  There are ledge approach scrambles from the left along the rising ledge that becomes the broad terrace 300' up the route, so an ascent of Called in some manner is often a season-long possibility.

Route Description: The route lies at the north end of the main face of Mt. Pisgah.  The upper 200' lies in a huge, left-facing corner.  P1(WI 5+, 200'), when in shape, is a real beauty.  It climbs a thin smear that thickens as it steepens to a point where it goes vertical and longer screws can be placed.  The bulge at about 180' out is sometimes overhanging.  Belay atop the bulge on screws.  P2 (WI 4+, 100') climbs the bulges to the broad ledge at the base of the huge column-filled corner to a belay off a cedar to the left.  P3 (WI 5+, 200') climbs the stacked columns with a rest on a bulge mid-pitch.  The easy stemming at the top to the wall on the right, and the common formation of an overhanging cave move near the bottom, usually makes the crux down low.  Belay off trees.  

Gear: Full column ice rack for a direct ascent, including a few pins, short screws and spectres for the opening moves if lean.  Bring an alpine rock rack for the ledge approach from the north.

Descent: Rappel the route.

First Ascent:  Clint Cummins and John Imbrie; December 28, 1977.