Location: Mt.
Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT
Grade:
IV, WI 5+
Height:
500'
Directions: From
the south, take exit 23 off I-91, route 5 north through Lyndonville,
to West Burke and a right turn onto 5A north which passes beneath
the west face of Mt. Pisgah, along the eastern shore of the Lake.
>From the north, take exit 28 off I-91 for Derby Center or exit 26
at Orleans. Either way, head east to join 5A south to reach the
Lake.
Season:
The upper columns are as reliable as any ice at Willoughby; there must
be a prolonged cold spell to form them, but there's plenty of water.
The lower section is usually not in shape however. There are
ledge approach scrambles from the left along the rising ledge that
becomes the broad terrace 300' up the route, so an ascent of Called in
some manner is often a season-long possibility.
Route Description:
The route lies at the north end of the main face of Mt. Pisgah.
The upper 200' lies in a huge, left-facing corner. P1(WI 5+,
200'), when in shape, is a real beauty. It climbs a thin smear
that thickens as it steepens to a point where it goes vertical and
longer screws can be placed. The bulge at about 180' out is
sometimes overhanging. Belay atop the bulge on screws. P2
(WI 4+, 100') climbs the bulges to the broad ledge at the base of the
huge column-filled corner to a belay off a cedar to the
left. P3 (WI 5+, 200') climbs the stacked columns with a rest on
a bulge mid-pitch. The easy stemming at the top to the wall
on the right, and the common formation of an overhanging cave move
near the bottom, usually makes the crux down low. Belay off
trees.
Gear: Full
column ice rack for a direct ascent, including a few pins, short
screws and spectres for the opening moves if lean. Bring an
alpine rock rack for the ledge approach from the north.
Descent:
Rappel the route.