Classic Climbs

 

Big Science

Location: Squaredock Mtn., ME

Grade: WI 5

Height: 195'

Directions:  From the north take Rte. 5 south from Bethel, ME appx. 11 miles, but heed directions from the south as follows: From the south, take Rte. 5 north from Fryeburg, ME appx. 27 miles to the junction with Rte. 35 which is just west of Lynchville, ME; stay on 5 north by turning left and travel appx. 3 miles north.  Again, appx. 3 miles north of this junction between Rte.'s 5 and 35, look west and see, by virtue of a clearing of a construction site, Squaredock Mtn. to the west.  You can see the route in the center of the rectangular dark wall from the road.  Immediately to the north of this clearing is an old logging road which lies perpendicular to the highway.  You don't want this one.  The next logging road to the immediate north of the former which angles northwestward into the woods is the one you want.  Park off the highway (there's a road heading east just north of this point), and hike in along the northwest angling logging road, through pines and a small field, into the woods and along the side of a stream, to where the road narrows, keep along the path in the same direction till you see orange marking tape which blazes a trail back which angles back toward the southwest all the way to the wall and the chimney in the center from which pours Big Science.

Season:  With it's SE exposure, Big Science requires prolonged cold to form.  However, the large left wall of the chimney provides shade for the crux column almost all day long; while the top and bottom bake in the sun, they can be climbed in extremely thin conditions with good rock gear.  It's purported to be fairly reliable by locals.

Route Description:  P1(WI5, 195'):  The direct line up the ice runnel notwithstanding, the right-angling corner which rises from the left provides a reasonable mixed start with good gear, to join the ice flow deep in the chimney above.  If lean, there is good rock stems and protection throughout the technically demanding column.  The angle eases on a ramp above to the trees.

Gear:  Full column ice rack is needed if sizable.  Bring atleast half a rock rack if lean and few screws.  There's a fixed nut at the top of the left-hand start, and fixed arrow at the base of the ice.

Descent:  Rappel the route with two ropes from trees in the chimney at the top.

First Ascent:  Paul Boissonneault and Felix Modugno, Winter 1988.