Location: Squaredock
Mtn., ME
Grade: WI 5
Height: 195'
Directions: From the
north take Rte. 5 south from Bethel, ME appx. 11 miles, but heed
directions from the south as follows: From the south, take
Rte. 5 north from Fryeburg, ME appx. 27 miles to the junction with
Rte. 35 which is just west of Lynchville, ME; stay on 5 north by
turning left and travel appx. 3 miles north. Again,
appx. 3 miles north of this junction between Rte.'s 5 and 35, look
west and see, by virtue of a clearing of a construction site,
Squaredock Mtn. to the west. You can see the route in the
center of the rectangular dark wall from the road.
Immediately to the north of this clearing is an old logging road which
lies perpendicular to the highway. You don't want this one.
The next logging road to the immediate north of the former
which angles northwestward into the woods is the one you want.
Park off the highway (there's a road heading east just north
of this point), and hike in along the northwest angling logging
road, through pines and a small field, into the woods and along
the side of a stream, to where the road narrows, keep along
the path in the same direction till you see orange marking tape
which blazes a trail back which angles back toward the
southwest all the way to the wall and the chimney in the center from
which pours Big Science.
Season: With
it's SE exposure, Big Science requires prolonged cold to
form. However, the large left wall of the chimney provides
shade for the crux column almost all day long; while the top and
bottom bake in the sun, they can be climbed in extremely thin
conditions with good rock gear. It's purported to be fairly
reliable by locals.
Route Description:
P1(WI5, 195'): The direct line up the ice runnel
notwithstanding, the right-angling corner which rises from the
left provides a reasonable mixed start with good gear, to join the
ice flow deep in the chimney above. If lean, there is good
rock stems and protection throughout the technically demanding
column. The angle eases on a ramp above to the trees.
Gear: Full
column ice rack is needed if sizable. Bring atleast half a
rock rack if lean and few screws. There's a fixed nut at the
top of the left-hand start, and fixed arrow at the base of the
ice.
Descent: Rappel
the route with two ropes from trees in the chimney at the
top.
First Ascent: Paul
Boissonneault and Felix Modugno, Winter 1988.