Thursday, November 26, 2015

"I was only one pitch in and had 5 more to go. I still had to tackle the Remission pillar, the Repentance pillar, and the chockstone top-outs on each, but I think in the back of my mind, at that point, I KNEW it would happen."

He kicked his crampon points into the ice near the top of The Fang, with 5m to go. A second later, the entire ice column cut loose 20cm below his feet, and approximately 10 tons of ice crashed into the mountainside below him.

What’s in an ice climber’s bag should change on a day-to-day basis, depending on the temperature, terrain and conditions. That said, I’m not that into jogging. So instead, I just go ahead and pack a heavy bag with a good rack, a few pins, some hooks, slings and a couple of half ropes in December, and they stay there until March.

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Published annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest publication of its kind—it documents the worlds most significant climbs. The AAJ delivers feature stories and detailed route information covering the years most cutting-edge ascents, big new routes, and unexplored potential. ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING Every year, novice and experienced climbers are injured and killed by inadequate preparation and errors in judgment. Published annually since 1947, Accidents in North American Mountaineering details the years most significant and teachable accidents. For each incident, the AACs Safety Advisory Council analyzes what went wrong so you can avoid similar situations in the future.

Temperatures have plummeted to as low as -52C in the East, freezing parts of Niagara Falls solid. Apparently, the last time it got cold enough for the millions of tons of water flowing over Niagara Falls to freeze was one day in 1848—166 years ago.

"Should be a block-buster. Tuition is $385 and includes a 3 year American Mountain Guides Association membership. This will surely fill fast so book as soon as you can! Email [email protected] or call (203) 228-2311. Thanks to Central Rock Glastonbury for hosting this course! Nate McKenzie of Ascent Climbing is co-instructing this course with me. It's going to be AWESOME!" - Matt Shove

Drytooling is suddenly hot again. New crags, new tools, new attitudes, it’s definitely going off in a way I haven’t seen in a decade. I’m getting a lot of email from people asking questions. The following are distilled replies, and principles I teach when coaching:

We climbed three pitches out and left from the top of the Snotcicle with some of the most wildly positioned mixed climbing I've done. Matt McCormick & Peter Doucette

The 17th Bozeman Ice Festival main event took place on Saturday, December 14. It is the first year the event is on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup tour, which brought a number of strong Europeans.

THE ICE SEASON IS HERE! ARE YOU READY? The Boston Rock Gym (BRG) is now offering a 24 session, 8-week training program to build your general fitness and train you to maximize technical performance outside on the ice. Sessions will be scaled to individual fitness levels so beginners as well as advanced climbers are welcome. All equipment is provided. Sessions start December 2 at 7 PM. All training will take place at the BRG. Cost is $125 for members and $175 for non-members (which includes a day pass for each session). Training will be taught by Josh Murphey, a professional mountain guide for Alaska Mountaineering School since 2010. We're very excited to be able to offer this training program and hope that you will join us. Call the BRG at 781.935.7325 to reserve your spot NOW!