Something always brings me back to my first stomping grounds. Despites moving to the Rockies over five years ago, mainly for the climbing, I find myself craving the untracked monsters Quebec has to offer. At first I felt like I had unfinished business there, but as times goes on, I realized it’s just the quality of the climbing that keeps on bringing me back.
Jon Garlough was a Chino. In fact, far as we could tell, Garlough was the Last of the Chinos; a dying breed of mountain men hell-bent on climbing every scrap of available granite hitherto untouched in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. He first told me about some new ice lines out near the Captain during the dog days of summer, when cold, clean snow seemed wonderful.
What’s in an ice climber’s bag should change on a day-to-day basis, depending on the temperature, terrain and conditions. That said, I’m not that into jogging. So instead, I just go ahead and pack a heavy bag with a good rack, a few pins, some hooks, slings and a couple of half ropes in December, and they stay there until March.
THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Published annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest publication of its kind—it documents the worlds most significant climbs. The AAJ delivers feature stories and detailed route information covering the years most cutting-edge ascents, big new routes, and unexplored potential. ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING Every year, novice and experienced climbers are injured and killed by inadequate preparation and errors in judgment. Published annually since 1947, Accidents in North American Mountaineering details the years most significant and teachable accidents. For each incident, the AACs Safety Advisory Council analyzes what went wrong so you can avoid similar situations in the future.