GEAR DOESN’T LAST FOREVER – Crampons

"we became aware of some discussions in a couple online climbing forums and blogs filled with rumors and misinformation about BD crampons" - BD

The Comeback: Recovering From Climbing Injuries

Life would be great if we bounced back quickly to 100 percent after recovery. But the reality is that once you get back on the vertical horse, you are still in recovery. Comeback climbing takes patience and acceptance of your vulnerability.

Northern Quebec’s Far-Off, Monster Ice

Something always brings me back to my first stomping grounds. Despites moving to the Rockies over five years ago, mainly for the climbing, I find myself craving the untracked monsters Quebec has to offer. At first I felt like I had unfinished business there, but as times goes on, I realized it’s just the quality of the climbing that keeps on bringing me back.

The Little Expedition That Could: Climbing Untouched NH Ice

Jon Garlough was a Chino. In fact, far as we could tell, Garlough was the Last of the Chinos; a dying breed of mountain men hell-bent on climbing every scrap of available granite hitherto untouched in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. He first told me about some new ice lines out near the Captain during the dog days of summer, when cold, clean snow seemed wonderful.

Will Mayo Puts Up M14 at Vail

"This is definitely the hardest sport mixed climb in the United States," Mayo said. "Nothing else even comes close."

Eastern Pa ice from the air

Filmed in Eastern Pa, the narrows, main flow - 2/9/14 Gear: DJI Phantom carrying a Gopro hero 3 + black

Taking the Sharp End – “Beyond the Pale”

"I was only one pitch in and had 5 more to go. I still had to tackle the Remission pillar, the Repentance pillar, and the chockstone top-outs on each, but I think in the back of my mind, at that point, I KNEW it would happen."

When your climbing route collapses

He kicked his crampon points into the ice near the top of The Fang, with 5m to go. A second later, the entire ice column cut loose 20cm below his feet, and approximately 10 tons of ice crashed into the mountainside below him.

THE SLACKER’S GUIDE TO PACKING FOR ICE CLIMBING

What’s in an ice climber’s bag should change on a day-to-day basis, depending on the temperature, terrain and conditions. That said, I’m not that into jogging. So instead, I just go ahead and pack a heavy bag with a good rack, a few pins, some hooks, slings and a couple of half ropes in December, and they stay there until March.

AAC – Last Chance to Contribute to the 2014 Publications

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Published annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest publication of its kind—it documents the worlds most significant climbs. The AAJ delivers feature stories and detailed route information covering the years most cutting-edge ascents, big new routes, and unexplored potential. ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING Every year, novice and experienced climbers are injured and killed by inadequate preparation and errors in judgment. Published annually since 1947, Accidents in North American Mountaineering details the years most significant and teachable accidents. For each incident, the AACs Safety Advisory Council analyzes what went wrong so you can avoid similar situations in the future.