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Archive for the ‘Teck Tips’ Category

Logan Bread

Looking for an alternative to power bars? Logan bread could be the answer.
This is a bread developed for the numerous Canadian ascents on Mount Logan. A 2-by-2-inch square was said to be able to sustain a man for a day.

1 quart water
4 pounds whole wheat flour
1 1/2 pounds raw sugar or brown sugar
12 ounces non-fat dry milk
2 tablespoons baking power
2 tablespoons sea salt
2 cups honey
1 cup blackstrap molasses
1 1/4 cups oil
1 cup sesame seeds
1 1/2 cups wheat germ

1. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees
2. mix all ingredients together very well and turn into a greased roasting pan. Bake one hour. 3. Cut into squares and then allow to air-dry until squares are semi-dry.
Yield: Enough to sustain two men 16 days.

From The New York Times Natural Foods Cook Book by Jean Hewitt 1971

X-treme Tape

Originally developed for the military, this new silicone tape is ideal for wrapping your ice tool. And with the 6 different colors it is easy to individualize your tools.

It’s self-fusing, and requires no adhesive since it only bonds to itself. X-treme tape stretches to 3 times its length, conforms to irregular shapes easily, and withstands UV rays, acids and fuels. Won’t melt to 500° F. Remains flexible to -60°F. Insulates to 8000 volts. Forms a permanent air and watertight seal. Once wrapped over itself, it forms a bond immediately, and is permanently fused in 24 hours. Each roll is 1″ wide x 10′.

This is the best tape I have found for wrapping ice tools and is similar to the original tape that comes on the Petzl charlet Nomic. Sticker but not as durable.

Available from

Duluth Trading Company

Keeping Warm

Add a belay coat to your system

by Doug Millen

The biggest mistake ice climbers make is not working a belay coat into their climbing system. I see more climbers hopping around at belays to keep warm. Sweating on the lead and freezing at the belay is for amateur’s! Ice climbing is a stop and go exertional activity and you need to dress accordingly. A good belay coat weighs next to nothing and can be easily stashed in a fanny pack, some even stash in there own zippered pocket and can be clipped to your harness.

I dress with enough insulation for the days average temperature so I’m comfortable while moving or climbing. I add a light shell over the insulation to shed ice, snow and water. I find that two light shells work really well. Sandwich one between insulating layers (over the one next to your skin is best), the other on the outside. With this system I sweat less while climbing and can move more freely. At the belay I put on my belay coat. Believe me when I say I’m toasty, I don’t care how long my partner takes to lead the next pitch! When it’s my turn I am ready to go and not shaking with cold. Your hands and feet will also benefit from the coat, over all you will be much warmer.

I prefer a synthetic coat to down. We’re talking New England here where everything is constantly damp, we all know the benefits of synthetic fibers when they’re wet. Make sure it has a big hood to fit over your helmet and enough pockets for your stuff.

I find that the right clothing system is as important as the right ice tools. Good systems take time to prefect but once refined you’ll see it’s worth it. Staying warm will improve your climbing by making it more comfortable and enjoyable.

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