Sometimes the Leader Does Fall

A Look Into the Experiences of Ice Climbers Who Have Fallen on Ice Screws by Kel Rossiter / Adventure Spirit      INTRODUCTION Last winter a climber with Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine was asking me about the holding power of ice screws. We discussed the...

Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads

A great film by Petzl on proper ice screw placement technique, as well as how to set an anchor and a v-thread. Ice climbing basics: Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads from Petzl-sport on Vimeo.This film demonstrates proper ice...

DMM Testing: SLINGS AT ANCHORS

SLINGS AT ANCHORS -DMM

How to complete an Abalakov – aka V-Thread – without your hooker

Tip of the Week  from Rockies Ice Specialists Inc. How to complete an Abalakov - aka V-Thread - without your hooker. I used 8mm cord in this video but 7mm cord will usually pull through more easily. Make sure your bored...

Protecting The Ice We Climb

by Doug Millen It's a never-ending battle! What will an ice screw hold? In real life situations. How can we best protect an ice climb with it's ever changing condition. What I do 1. I carry a variety of ice screw lengths. Ice comes...

Ice Climbing Anchor Strength

Updated! How strong are abolokov threads, ice screws and re-bored holes for anchors? Lots of data and strong opinions out there. Do the tests represent real world conditions? We have put together several resources for a broad view of ice protection...

Camping Trip Planner

New Smartphone App by Jimbl Android System A Camping planner pre-populated and customizable A configurable planner with everything needed for any camping trip. Comes pre-populated with more than 225 camping items. If you are a camping person, this is all you need...

Rope Tips #1

Skinny Singles: How Thin Can You Go? by Justropes.com Modern single ropes keep getting thinner and thinner, pushing the envelope of what is possible for a balance of performance and weight savings. Is a “skinny” single right for you, and if...

How to make a V-tread

by Dave Furman More and more recently I’ve come across all sorts of gear left on ice climbs, left when people rap off or when people can’t finish a route and rap or lower off. In the interest of keeping...

IN PRACTICE – #2

By Scott Backes Alpine Mentoring.com "IN PRACTICE" What separates a good day of climbing waterfalls from a bad one? In the first half of this In Practice piece, we dealt with the physical factors that influence our ascents. This second half deals...