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Archive for the ‘Ice Climbing News’ Category

Comp WINNERS! Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2012

WINNERS of the Drytooling Comp

Friday Night at the Cranmore Climbing Wall, North Conway NH

Kevin Mahoney climbed strong to win the Men’s division

Kevin Mahoney climbing to win! the MWV Ice Fest Comp

Kevin Mahoney about to enter the first crux of the climb – Photos by Doug Millen

 Click photos to enlarge

Janet Bergman makes it to the last obsticle to win the Women’s division

Janet Bergman on the last obstacle

Janet Bergman on the last obstacle to win – Photos by Doug Millen

Janet BergmanJanet Bergman
Comp Results

Men’s

1st – Kevin Mahoney

2nd – Bayard Russell

3rd – Ivan Tighe

Women’s 

1st – Janet Bergman

2nd – Andrea Charest

3rd – Lindsay Fixmer

Many thanks to Cranmore for hosting the climbing event and to IME and IMCS for making it all happen, and to the sponsors…Thank you!

Ice Fest Blog

Road Warrior – FA, Lake Willoughby, VT

Road Warrior – M8

Lake Willoughby, VT

FA: 01-25-12  Ryan Brooks and Josh Hurst

 “Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby” – Josh

Rack: Standard rock rack including two #3 Camalots and three ½” cams, no pins, 5 screws: including 2x 10cm and 3x 13 cm.

The Route ascends a large corner 200 meters to the north of Twenty Below Zero Gully.

P1: NEI 4 50m Climb the left most ice flow, pull the overlap onto thin ice and a good stance. Foot traverse left and up easy mixed to the base of the big corner.

P2: M6 25m Up the big corner. Do not rap off the tree, your ropes will get stuck.

P3: M8 35m Traverse up and right following flakes to the ice. When the ice ends at the big roof, traverse right around the roof to a belay back left. If the ice smear extends to the overlap midpitch, the second crux can be avoided, lowering the grade half a notch.

P4: NEI 4- 20m Climb thickening ice to the trees.

Descent: Walk off or rap the route from anchors at the top of P3 and P1.

Josh’s notes:

Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby. It’s a modern mixed route with a very traditional feel requiring a full rack. The name comes from the absurd amount of driving it took to complete this route, 50+ hours over 6 days, and the apocalyptic setting at the base of the large rock fall. (Who doesn’t have a crush on Mel Gibson anyway?) It should be noted that the route is clean and is on some of the best rock at Willoughby. The route forms every year, this year being the smallest I’ve seen it.

The Back Story by Josh Hurst

Source: Josh Hurst

Note: This pair also put up “TINY DANCER” at The Lake last year.

 

Jake List – Climbing to Win!

Slide Show

Jake List of Hinesburg Vermont takes 1st place for the Men at the 2nd Annual Drytooling Comp. This event was held at Petra Cliffs during the 2012 Smuggs Ice Bash.

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Many thanks to Petra Cliffs for hosting the dry tooling comp and to all the sponsors that make this event happen.

21st Annual Polartec® Challenge Grant Recipients Announced

(Lawrence, Mass.) – Polartec is pleased to announce the recipients of its 21st annual Polartec® Challenge Grant. Six separate expeditions will receive funding and support from Polartec for 2012: a first ascent attempt in the Indian Karakoram, an attempt of a climbing double header in Pakistan, a first descent attempt in Alaska, a new route attempt in Alaska, a first ascent attempt in Alaska, and first ascent attempts in Antarctica.

“The Polartec Challenge encourages the spirit and practice of outdoor adventure,” states Polartec North American Marketing Manager, Allon Cohne. “The 2012 Polartec Challenge Grant recipients exemplify Polartec’s commitment to expanding our perception of what’s possible, and we’re proud to help them.”

 Northeast Climbers score BIG!

  • Peter Doucette and Silas Rossi will attempt a new route on the southeast face of Mt. Bradley in Alaska. On their proposted route, the two-man team expects to find significant mixed climbing for the duration of the 4,500′ ascent.
  • Freddie Wilkinson and Mike Libecki will travel to an area in Antarctica previously unexplored by climbers to climb first ascents on the Earth’s southernmost and most remote spires and big walls. Wilkinson and Libecki will take advantage of the continuous daylight during the winter solstice and attempt first ascents of as many spires as possible during the expedition. Libecki also recieved a Polartec Challenge Grant in 2011 for a climbing expedition to Franz Josef Land in Russia, which has been extended to 2012.

More….

Source: Facebook, pitchengine.com, Polartec

Smuggs Ice Bash 2012 – Drytooling Comp WINNERS!

WINNERS of the Drytooling Comp

Friday night at Petra Cliffs, Burlington VT!

Jake List of Hinesburg Vermont takes 1st in the Men’s division

Jake clipping to win the 2012 Mens drytooling comp

Jake clipping to win the 2012 Mens drytooling comp during the Smuggs Ice Bash held at Petra Cliffs, Burlington VT – Photo by Doug Millen

Jake ListClimbing to Win! (slide show)

Andrea Charest takes 1st in the Women’s division

Andrea Charest stretching for the log

Andrea Charest stretching for the log, to go on and win the women’s division – Photo by Doug Millen

 Click photos to enlarge

Results

Men’s

1st – Jake List

2nd – Ivan Tish

3rd – Kevin Ryan

Women’s

1st – Andrea Charest

2nd – Janet Bergman

3rd – Melisa McNeill

Many thanks to Petra Cliffs for hosting the dry tooling comp, Bert Severin of  Sunrise Adventure Sports  for putting this event together and climberism.com for the great food and beer at the comp. Sterling Rope & La Sportiva put up the prize money of $250 for the men’s and women’s winners of the indoor drytooling comp.

More on this event coming soon…….

www.smuggsicebash.com

Report and photos by Doug Millen

 

 

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