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Archive for the ‘Ice Climbing News’ Category

Northeast climbers win Piolet d’Or!

Piolet d'Or winners 2012

Piolets d’Or 2012

The 2012 recipients are:  Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson (USA) for their ascent of Saser Kangri II (7,518m), India.

The first ascent by experienced U.S. climbers, Freddie Wilkinson, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson of 7518 meter Saser Kangri II in India garnered the trio a 2012 Piolet d’Or Award.

The summit is the second highest previously unclimbed mountain in the world. Their climb, “The Old Breed”, WI4 M3, 1700m, is a great example of committing lightweight alpine-style climbing at high altitude. They gained the summit by ascending the steep 1,700 metre south-west face over four days of climbing, utilizing three bivouacs. According to Alpinist magazine, “Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering.”

The trio used special lightweight ice hammocks designed by Richey to create flat bivi sites on the route.

Way to go guys!!!!

for more about their ascent: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11x/n…d-highest-peak

Also see: https://www.facebook.com/thepioletsdor  / http://www.pioletsdor.com/

~rockytop

Photo / Source: https://www.facebook.com/thepioletsdor

 

Joe Szot – GONE!

 Adirondack Climbing Legend Dies

Joe Szot at Mountainfest 2012

The Rollie Master, Joe Szot

Joe Szot, 51, died of a heart attack while rock climbing in the Shawangunks Mountains of NY,  March 14, 2012

Joe was climbing a route and started feeling poorly.  He asked to be lowered. Once on the ground he stopped breathing. His partner called 911 and preformed CPR till help arrived. They could not save him.

Joe Szot was bigger than life and a fixture in the Adirondack climbing community. He will be missed by many and Keene Valley will never be the same. Our best to his family, friends and all that knew him. Please respect their privacy during this difficult time.

More details as they become available.

– Doug Millen

Feature photo: New Years fire works at the “Bivy”. To you Joe!  RIP

 

News and Information – 2.23.12

Ice Climbing News and Information from around the Web

A Word – “Thank God there are a few young climbers like Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk who exemplify the best qualities of alpinism. The magnificent southeast ridge of Cerro Torre has been unshackled and can now be an inspiration to future alpinists who have the courage to climb rather than merely summit by any possible means.” – Yvon Chouinard

Cerro Torre: Deviations from Reason – Kelly Cordes

The Scottish Boogie – Bayard Russell

American Alpine Club Annual Benefit Dinner – Boston, MA – March 2 & 3, 2012 – Please join Mark, Freddie, and the rest of the Saser Kangri II team for a journey—vividly told in words, images, and video—to one of the last frontiers of Himalayan climbing. – AAC

The Old Breed – THE OLD BREED is a documentary short film about the first ascent of Saser Kangri II, located in the Eastern Karakoram. At 7518 meters high, SKII was the second-highest unclimbed mountain in the world. It was climbed on August 24th, 2011, by the American team of Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, and Freddie Wilkinson. –  Cowboy Bear Ninja on Vimeo

The Fine Art of Going Sideways – Freddie Wilkinson

I LOVE CHOSS - A visual exploration of mixed climbing in the Catskill’s  by  Christopher Beauchamp

Ice Revolution with Rick Wilcox – Granite Films

Six Ascents Nominated For 20th Piolets d’Or – Alpinist

A professor sprays – Raphael Slawinski

How To Use a Pull Cord For Rappelling – Bigfoot Mountain Guides

Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope – Petzl

MICRO TRAXION –  Efficient ultralight progress capture pulley – Petzl

Aartun and Gravdal Die On Norwegian Big Wall – Alpinist

Colin Haley’s reflections on climbing with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun – Colin Haley

Ice Climbing World Cup in Saas Fee | Official UIAA Movie

Media Partnership with the American Alpine Club

NEice is proud to announce that it has become a Media Partner of the American Alpine Club (AAC).  As a Media Partner, NEice will provide exposure for the AAC among the northeast’s dedicated and zealous population of ice climbers.  NEice sees thousands of visitors each month during the ice climbing season.  As such, it is the #1 site for information on ice climbing in New England and the Northeast.  With its active community of members, NEice will undoubtedly be a valuable partner for the AAC in promoting its overall mission and the efforts of its local chapter: American Alpine Club – Northeast Region.

This partnership will also help increase NEice’s exposure beyond the Northeast: Being a Media Partner means that NEice will receive press on the AAC’s website, E-news, and even some printed material. The AAC has played an integral role in promoting the sport of climbing across the nation since 1902, while also working tirelessly on access and conservation efforts.  NEice is excited to contribute to the AAC’s continuing mission of providing “knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community.”

“The American Alpine Club is committed to supporting and inspiring climbers from their first days on the rock through a lifetime of climbing. The work we do has the endorsement of numerous industry media leaders. Our Media Partners—magazines, websites, photographers, artists—provide essential in-kind support to improve and spread the AAC’s message.”

 

Comp WINNERS! Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2012

WINNERS of the Drytooling Comp

Friday Night at the Cranmore Climbing Wall, North Conway NH

Kevin Mahoney climbed strong to win the Men’s division

Kevin Mahoney climbing to win! the MWV Ice Fest Comp

Kevin Mahoney about to enter the first crux of the climb – Photos by Doug Millen

 Click photos to enlarge

Janet Bergman makes it to the last obsticle to win the Women’s division

Janet Bergman on the last obstacle

Janet Bergman on the last obstacle to win – Photos by Doug Millen

Janet BergmanJanet Bergman
Comp Results

Men’s

1st – Kevin Mahoney

2nd – Bayard Russell

3rd – Ivan Tighe

Women’s 

1st – Janet Bergman

2nd – Andrea Charest

3rd – Lindsay Fixmer

Many thanks to Cranmore for hosting the climbing event and to IME and IMCS for making it all happen, and to the sponsors…Thank you!

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