Archive for the ‘Ice Climbing News’ Category

NEice is proud to announce that it has become a Media Partner of the American Alpine Club (AAC).  As a Media Partner, NEice will provide exposure for the AAC among the northeast’s dedicated and zealous population of ice climbers.  NEice sees thousands of visitors each month during the ice climbing season.  As such, it is the #1 site for information on ice climbing in New England and the Northeast.  With its active community of members, NEice will undoubtedly be a valuable partner for the AAC in promoting its overall mission and the efforts of its local chapter: American Alpine Club – Northeast Region.

This partnership will also help increase NEice’s exposure beyond the Northeast: Being a Media Partner means that NEice will receive press on the AAC’s website, E-news, and even some printed material. The AAC has played an integral role in promoting the sport of climbing across the nation since 1902, while also working tirelessly on access and conservation efforts.  NEice is excited to contribute to the AAC’s continuing mission of providing “knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community.”

“The American Alpine Club is committed to supporting and inspiring climbers from their first days on the rock through a lifetime of climbing. The work we do has the endorsement of numerous industry media leaders. Our Media Partners—magazines, websites, photographers, artists—provide essential in-kind support to improve and spread the AAC’s message.”

WINNERS of the Drytooling Comp

Friday Night at the Cranmore Climbing Wall, North Conway NH

Kevin Mahoney climbed strong to win the Men’s division

Kevin Mahoney about to enter the first crux of the climb – Photos by Doug Millen

 Click photos to enlarge

Janet Bergman makes it to the last obsticle to win the Women’s division

Janet Bergman on the last obstacle to win – Photos by Doug Millen

Comp Results

Men’s

1st – Kevin Mahoney

2nd – Bayard Russell

3rd – Ivan Tighe

Women’s 

1st – Janet Bergman

2nd – Andrea Charest

3rd – Lindsay Fixmer

Many thanks to Cranmore for hosting the climbing event and to IME and IMCS for making it all happen, and to the sponsors…Thank you!

Ice Fest Blog

Road Warrior – M8

Lake Willoughby, VT

FA: 01-25-12  Ryan Brooks and Josh Hurst

 ”Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby” – Josh

Rack: Standard rock rack including two #3 Camalots and three ½” cams, no pins, 5 screws: including 2x 10cm and 3x 13 cm.

The Route ascends a large corner 200 meters to the north of Twenty Below Zero Gully.

P1: NEI 4 50m Climb the left most ice flow, pull the overlap onto thin ice and a good stance. Foot traverse left and up easy mixed to the base of the big corner.

P2: M6 25m Up the big corner. Do not rap off the tree, your ropes will get stuck.

P3: M8 35m Traverse up and right following flakes to the ice. When the ice ends at the big roof, traverse right around the roof to a belay back left. If the ice smear extends to the overlap midpitch, the second crux can be avoided, lowering the grade half a notch.

P4: NEI 4- 20m Climb thickening ice to the trees.

Descent: Walk off or rap the route from anchors at the top of P3 and P1.

Josh’s notes:

Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby. It’s a modern mixed route with a very traditional feel requiring a full rack. The name comes from the absurd amount of driving it took to complete this route, 50+ hours over 6 days, and the apocalyptic setting at the base of the large rock fall. (Who doesn’t have a crush on Mel Gibson anyway?) It should be noted that the route is clean and is on some of the best rock at Willoughby. The route forms every year, this year being the smallest I’ve seen it.

The Back Story by Josh Hurst

Source: Josh Hurst

Note: This pair also put up “TINY DANCER” at The Lake last year.

Slide Show

Jake List of Hinesburg Vermont takes 1st place for the Men at the 2nd Annual Drytooling Comp. This event was held at Petra Cliffs during the 2012 Smuggs Ice Bash.

(Lawrence, Mass.) – Polartec is pleased to announce the recipients of its 21st annual Polartec® Challenge Grant. Six separate expeditions will receive funding and support from Polartec for 2012: a first ascent attempt in the Indian Karakoram, an attempt of a climbing double header in Pakistan, a first descent attempt in Alaska, a new route attempt in Alaska, a first ascent attempt in Alaska, and first ascent attempts in Antarctica.

“The Polartec Challenge encourages the spirit and practice of outdoor adventure,” states Polartec North American Marketing Manager, Allon Cohne. “The 2012 Polartec Challenge Grant recipients exemplify Polartec’s commitment to expanding our perception of what’s possible, and we’re proud to help them.”

 Northeast Climbers score BIG!

• Peter Doucette and Silas Rossi will attempt a new route on the southeast face of Mt. Bradley in Alaska. On their proposted route, the two-man team expects to find significant mixed climbing for the duration of the 4,500′ ascent.
• Freddie Wilkinson and Mike Libecki will travel to an area in Antarctica previously unexplored by climbers to climb first ascents on the Earth’s southernmost and most remote spires and big walls. Wilkinson and Libecki will take advantage of the continuous daylight during the winter solstice and attempt first ascents of as many spires as possible during the expedition. Libecki also recieved a Polartec Challenge Grant in 2011 for a climbing expedition to Franz Josef Land in Russia, which has been extended to 2012.

More….

Source: Facebook, pitchengine.com, Polartec