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Archive for the ‘Ice Climbing News’ Category

News and Information – 2.23.12

Ice Climbing News and Information from around the Web

A Word – “Thank God there are a few young climbers like Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk who exemplify the best qualities of alpinism. The magnificent southeast ridge of Cerro Torre has been unshackled and can now be an inspiration to future alpinists who have the courage to climb rather than merely summit by any possible means.” – Yvon Chouinard

Cerro Torre: Deviations from Reason – Kelly Cordes

The Scottish Boogie – Bayard Russell

American Alpine Club Annual Benefit Dinner – Boston, MA – March 2 & 3, 2012 – Please join Mark, Freddie, and the rest of the Saser Kangri II team for a journey—vividly told in words, images, and video—to one of the last frontiers of Himalayan climbing. – AAC

The Old Breed – THE OLD BREED is a documentary short film about the first ascent of Saser Kangri II, located in the Eastern Karakoram. At 7518 meters high, SKII was the second-highest unclimbed mountain in the world. It was climbed on August 24th, 2011, by the American team of Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, and Freddie Wilkinson. –  Cowboy Bear Ninja on Vimeo

The Fine Art of Going Sideways – Freddie Wilkinson

I LOVE CHOSS - A visual exploration of mixed climbing in the Catskill’s  by  Christopher Beauchamp

Ice Revolution with Rick Wilcox – Granite Films

Six Ascents Nominated For 20th Piolets d’Or – Alpinist

A professor sprays – Raphael Slawinski

How To Use a Pull Cord For Rappelling – Bigfoot Mountain Guides

Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope – Petzl

MICRO TRAXION –  Efficient ultralight progress capture pulley – Petzl

Aartun and Gravdal Die On Norwegian Big Wall – Alpinist

Colin Haley’s reflections on climbing with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun – Colin Haley

Ice Climbing World Cup in Saas Fee | Official UIAA Movie

Media Partnership with the American Alpine Club

NEice is proud to announce that it has become a Media Partner of the American Alpine Club (AAC).  As a Media Partner, NEice will provide exposure for the AAC among the northeast’s dedicated and zealous population of ice climbers.  NEice sees thousands of visitors each month during the ice climbing season.  As such, it is the #1 site for information on ice climbing in New England and the Northeast.  With its active community of members, NEice will undoubtedly be a valuable partner for the AAC in promoting its overall mission and the efforts of its local chapter: American Alpine Club – Northeast Region.

This partnership will also help increase NEice’s exposure beyond the Northeast: Being a Media Partner means that NEice will receive press on the AAC’s website, E-news, and even some printed material. The AAC has played an integral role in promoting the sport of climbing across the nation since 1902, while also working tirelessly on access and conservation efforts.  NEice is excited to contribute to the AAC’s continuing mission of providing “knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community.”

“The American Alpine Club is committed to supporting and inspiring climbers from their first days on the rock through a lifetime of climbing. The work we do has the endorsement of numerous industry media leaders. Our Media Partners—magazines, websites, photographers, artists—provide essential in-kind support to improve and spread the AAC’s message.”

 

Comp WINNERS! Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2012

WINNERS of the Drytooling Comp

Friday Night at the Cranmore Climbing Wall, North Conway NH

Kevin Mahoney climbed strong to win the Men’s division

Kevin Mahoney climbing to win! the MWV Ice Fest Comp

Kevin Mahoney about to enter the first crux of the climb – Photos by Doug Millen

 Click photos to enlarge

Janet Bergman makes it to the last obsticle to win the Women’s division

Janet Bergman on the last obstacle

Janet Bergman on the last obstacle to win – Photos by Doug Millen

Janet BergmanJanet Bergman
Comp Results

Men’s

1st – Kevin Mahoney

2nd – Bayard Russell

3rd – Ivan Tighe

Women’s 

1st – Janet Bergman

2nd – Andrea Charest

3rd – Lindsay Fixmer

Many thanks to Cranmore for hosting the climbing event and to IME and IMCS for making it all happen, and to the sponsors…Thank you!

Ice Fest Blog

Road Warrior – FA, Lake Willoughby, VT

Road Warrior – M8

Lake Willoughby, VT

FA: 01-25-12  Ryan Brooks and Josh Hurst

 “Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby” – Josh

Rack: Standard rock rack including two #3 Camalots and three ½” cams, no pins, 5 screws: including 2x 10cm and 3x 13 cm.

The Route ascends a large corner 200 meters to the north of Twenty Below Zero Gully.

P1: NEI 4 50m Climb the left most ice flow, pull the overlap onto thin ice and a good stance. Foot traverse left and up easy mixed to the base of the big corner.

P2: M6 25m Up the big corner. Do not rap off the tree, your ropes will get stuck.

P3: M8 35m Traverse up and right following flakes to the ice. When the ice ends at the big roof, traverse right around the roof to a belay back left. If the ice smear extends to the overlap midpitch, the second crux can be avoided, lowering the grade half a notch.

P4: NEI 4- 20m Climb thickening ice to the trees.

Descent: Walk off or rap the route from anchors at the top of P3 and P1.

Josh’s notes:

Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby. It’s a modern mixed route with a very traditional feel requiring a full rack. The name comes from the absurd amount of driving it took to complete this route, 50+ hours over 6 days, and the apocalyptic setting at the base of the large rock fall. (Who doesn’t have a crush on Mel Gibson anyway?) It should be noted that the route is clean and is on some of the best rock at Willoughby. The route forms every year, this year being the smallest I’ve seen it.

The Back Story by Josh Hurst

Source: Josh Hurst

Note: This pair also put up “TINY DANCER” at The Lake last year.

 

Jake List – Climbing to Win!

Slide Show

Jake List of Hinesburg Vermont takes 1st place for the Men at the 2nd Annual Drytooling Comp. This event was held at Petra Cliffs during the 2012 Smuggs Ice Bash.

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Many thanks to Petra Cliffs for hosting the dry tooling comp and to all the sponsors that make this event happen.
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