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Archive for the ‘Ice Climbing News’ Category

Poke-O Access

Please respect the owners property rights and don’t trespass. Use the standard trails from the campground to access the cliff. Please see the information below and tell all your climbing friends. Thank You! – Doug Millen


Positive Thinking – Poke-O-Moonshine NY


Climbers should be aware that the land in front of the Main Face at Poke-O is private. Climbers need to use the main trail that runs from the [now closed] campground to the Main Face near Discord. Under no circumstances should climbers approach directly from the road. Of course it’s totally fine to scope out your routes from the shoulder of the road.

There have been several incidents where ice climbers have inadvertently wandered into the private property in front of the cliff. The local land owners have no tolerance for this and will close access should climbers continue to trespass. The Access Fund, with funds raised by The Mountaineer, have added signs to help delineate the boundaries and instruct climbers to stay on the cliff-base trail. Please be extra vigilant and stay on the trail that runs along the base of the cliff. -Jim Lawyer


Poke-O-Moonshine NY

Fund Drive 2014

What would the ice climbing season be like without NEice?

Think about it!

It’s time for the year end Fund Drive

Celebrating 15 Years!

NEice is a community web site run by volunteers, but we still have hard costs to run and maintain the server and all the related costs.  While sponsors and Google ads help,  it’s the viewer donations that make the difference and keep the site going.

If you like what we are doing and want us to expand our efforts and bring you the best there is in Northeast Ice Climbing. Contribute to the site and make a donation today.



$10.00 / $15.00 / $20.00 or $25.00.  Or  whatever you can afford.  More is greatly appreciated. Your donation will go towards the hard costs that keep the site going.

It’s Easy!

1. You can click the donation logo below to make a payment using PayPal. PayPal is secure and easy to use system for online payments.

2.You can also send a check payable to to the address below

PO Box 360

Bartlett, NH 03812-0360

 I would like to thank this seasons sponsors and supporters

Thanks for your support!

~ Doug Millen

Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan


Be Heard!

Help the Adirondack Park Agency define who we are as Mountaineers. If you don’t,  they will define who we are for us.

As climbers, we have until Friday, Dec 5th 2014, to submit comments to the Adirondack Park Agency. See info below.

“Our first step is to be recognized as a diverse user group that fits the definition of mountaineering”

The History

The Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan (APSLMP) defines permissible activities on Forest Preserve land in the Adirondacks.

The APSLMP was written in 1972, but there have been no major amendments despite the increased popularity of mountaineering activities, such as rock climbing, ice climbing, slide climbing, bouldering, and ski mountaineering. Due to recent Adirondack land acquisitions by the State of New York the APSLMP has been opened up to negotiation for the first time since 1987.
The current mention of mountaineering appears as such:
The following types of recreational use are compatible with wilderness and should be encouraged as long as the degree and intensity of such use does not endanger the wilderness resource itself:
— hiking, mountaineering, tenting, hunting, fishing, trapping, snowshoeing, ski touring, birding, nature study, and other forms of primitive and unconfined recreation.

Proposed Change

While the term mountaineering is interpreted to include multiple activities, a more specific definition would formalize this interpretation. Although some State officials may be aware of these activities, many more don’t know the difference between non-technical mountaineering (hiking) and climbing.
As bouldering, rock climbing, ice climbing, slide climbing, and ski mountaineering become increasingly popular, highlighting these specific activities could help managers identify mountaineering resources that are present in the Park. Therefore, a group of climbers has been working together, with guidance from APA officials, to draft an expanded definition:
Mountaineering includes, but is not limited to, the following forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, slide climbing, bouldering, and ski mountaineering.
Other climbing-related issues (i.e. fixed anchors) have been discussed, informally, with the APA and DEC. This is not the time, however, to formally address other climbing-related issues. Our first step is to be recognized as a diverse user group that fits the definition of mountaineering.

What you can do

Write a letter that includes the following about you:

  • 1. Name & user group(s) with which you associate (rock, ice, bouldering, etc.)
  • 2. Organization/business (if relevant, i.e. guide, shop/gym owner, instructor, author
  • 3. Address
  • 4. Email Address
  • 5. Support of the expanded definition, as written below:
    Mountaineering includes, but is not limited to, the following forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, slide climbing, bouldering, and ski mountaineering.
  • 6. Justification for how the expanded definition will help the Department of Conservation (DEC)
    For example: Highlighting these specific activities could help managers identify mountaineering resources that are present in the Park
  • 7. Justification for how the expanded definition will help climbers
    For example: A more inclusive definition of mountaineering will help unify climbers into a more visible user group, a group that wishes to cooperate with DEC in managing mountaineering resources (i.e. erosion control at heavily used cliffs, maintaining access trails)
  • 8. Say something positive about Adirondack climbers.

For example: We are a growing user group that is able to support guides and college programs
· We spend money throughout the Park and throughout the year, we attended annual festivals/events
· The Park has loads of mountaineering resources that attract climbers from downstate, out of state, Canada
· We cooperate with DEC in Peregrine monitoring and volunteer rescues
· We are conservation-minded, responsible and low-impact

Please submit written comments to:

Deputy Director, Planning
Kathy Regan
PO Box 99
Ray Brook, NY 12977

Or via email:

Source: Jeremy Haas

New ADK Ice Guide in the Works!



Don Mellor and Drew Haas are working on a new guidebook for Adirondack Ice Climbing. This will update the current guide “Blue Lines”, and will be the 2nd edition.
They are looking for photos of Adirondack ice climbing for the new guide book scheduled to be released next year.

** South and Central areas especially! **

In general Don and Drew are looking for:

  • Route Photos
  • Climber Action shots
  • Cliff Overview
  • Old Photos too

All information and photos are welcome, they will cull through them to see what works with the new guide.

Please forward all photos to

They will also take slides & regular photos. Just send to or drop off @ The Mountaineer. They can scan them and get them back to you.

The Mountaineer

1866 NYS RT 73
Keene Valley NY 12943

We eagerly await this new ice climbing guide. So much has happened since the last edition.

Don & Drew thank you in advance for all the help!

Source:, Don Mellor and Drew Hass

~Doug Millen

Here Today, Gone Tomorrow!

One Reckless Youth, an Ice Devil and several Polar children

Times like these don’t come along often, I mean, when was the last “Polar Vortex”? But when they do, you better be ready. The conditions were ripe for the picking last week on Whitehorse & Cathedral Ledges, North Conway NH. Peter Doucette – Mountain Sense Guides – along with IMCS guide Sam Bendroth,  Erik Eisele, and Adam Bidwell had “Mountain Sense” and dropped everything to take full advantage of these rare conditions. With plenty of ground water and a “Polar Vortex” to bring in some great “Streaks”, they hit the jack pot.

Peter had a few days of training earlier at Cathedral Ledge before his Whitehorse rampage. And as Bayard said, “Peter, now fully warmed up and ready for the next event, takes it to the next level. In the next three days he proceeds to climb everything. I mean everything!”  See more on Peter’s warm up from NEice Ambassador Bayard Russell of Cathedral Mountain Guides on his Blog Post  Sending Streaks

Blue is Endangered Species, Black is "Ice Devil" and Red is the "Reckless Youth" finish to "Endangered Species".

Whitehorse Ledge – South Buttress, North Conway NH / Blue is Endangered Species, Black is “Ice Devil” and Red is the “Reckless Youth” finish to “Endangered Species”.

“Taking a page out of the Russell/McCormick play book, during the nearly unrelenting deluge today, Erik and I followed “Endangered Species”, (Webster/Winkler ’82) and branched out on a slight variation to get into the Children’s Crusade finish up ice glazed corners yielding “Reckless Youth” (M8 WI5+) shown in Red.- Peter Doucette 

Its technical crux was pulling into the base of the upper corner on micro hooks to establish a stem
Reckless Youth - Peter Climbing 2 -  Erik

Peter on P1 of Endangered Species – Erik Eisele

” We were soaked to the bone, used umbrellas for the approach and first belay, and reached the ground just as a thunderclap ripped through the valley. Pete led the crux pitches, one and three, both of which were incredible to watch. On the Eradicate Dike he was looking at huge falls into ledges, and in the upper corner he was climbing a six inch vertical smear while clipping bad fixed pins. It was raining so hard water filled my boots. I went through four pairs of gloves. To watch Peter work in such conditions was pretty amazing.” – Erik Eisele

Ice Devil (Right) Reckless Youth in Red (left)

Peter on “Ice Devil”. Reckless Youth to the left (red) – Adam Bidwell

Ice Devil” (WI5+ M6+) shown in blue, followed a smear right of the rock route “Seventh Seal”, up “Scare Tactics,” then angled left into the upper reaches of “Beelzebub” with some variations. Brilliant climbing both days, full conditions today. Who know’s what will form in the next couple weeks if the “Polar Vortex” kicks back in.” – Peter Doucette

The Myth of Sisyphus

Myth - Sam climbing - Peter

Sam Bendroth on The Myth – Peter Doucette

The Myth offered some rare and spectacular climbing.

” The Myth with the absent top-out sadly apparent from below…sometimes you have to see it in person to believe it :-)” – Peter Doucette

Dresden South

Peter topping out on "Dresden-South" - Sam Bendroth

Peter topping out on “Dresden-South” – Sam Bendroth

Winter Asylum

Peter climbing "Winter Asylum -- Sam Bendroth

Peter climbing “Winter Asylum” – Sam Bendroth

The  routes are as follows:

  • Dresden South NEI5 Peter Doucette with Sam Bendroth  1/10/2014  / Cathedral Ledge,  Left margin of the Barber Wall.
  • Winter Asylum NEI 6- R (thats 6 minus) Peter Doucette with Sam Bendroth  1/10/ 2014  / Cathedral Ledge, The Barber Wall
  • Ice Devil M6+ NEI 5+ Peter Doucette with Adam Bidwell 1/9/2014 Ice  Whitehorse Ledge, South Buttress
  • Reckless Youth M8 NEI 5+ with Erik Eisele 1/11/2014  / Whitehorse Ledge, South Buttress ( through the upper corners of Children’s Crusade).

So all I want to know, when is the next “Polar Vortex” due? – Doug Millen

A few more photos

 Area Map


Peter Doucette

IFMGA/AMGA Licensed Mountain Guide

Phone:  603  616-7455
Address: 84 Skyline Drive
Intervale, NH. 03845
Photos as noted, click to enlarge

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Peter is guiding Ice Climbing 101 on FRIDAY and Outdoor Research’s Steep Waterfall Ice on SATURDAY at this years Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest  !

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