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Archive for the ‘Ice Climbing News’ Category

Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan

ADP PA

Be Heard!

Help the Adirondack Park Agency define who we are as Mountaineers. If you don’t,  they will define who we are for us.

As climbers, we have until Friday, Dec 5th 2014, to submit comments to the Adirondack Park Agency. See info below.

“Our first step is to be recognized as a diverse user group that fits the definition of mountaineering”

The History

The Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan (APSLMP) defines permissible activities on Forest Preserve land in the Adirondacks.

The APSLMP was written in 1972, but there have been no major amendments despite the increased popularity of mountaineering activities, such as rock climbing, ice climbing, slide climbing, bouldering, and ski mountaineering. Due to recent Adirondack land acquisitions by the State of New York the APSLMP has been opened up to negotiation for the first time since 1987.
The current mention of mountaineering appears as such:
The following types of recreational use are compatible with wilderness and should be encouraged as long as the degree and intensity of such use does not endanger the wilderness resource itself:
— hiking, mountaineering, tenting, hunting, fishing, trapping, snowshoeing, ski touring, birding, nature study, and other forms of primitive and unconfined recreation.

Proposed Change

While the term mountaineering is interpreted to include multiple activities, a more specific definition would formalize this interpretation. Although some State officials may be aware of these activities, many more don’t know the difference between non-technical mountaineering (hiking) and climbing.
As bouldering, rock climbing, ice climbing, slide climbing, and ski mountaineering become increasingly popular, highlighting these specific activities could help managers identify mountaineering resources that are present in the Park. Therefore, a group of climbers has been working together, with guidance from APA officials, to draft an expanded definition:
Mountaineering includes, but is not limited to, the following forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, slide climbing, bouldering, and ski mountaineering.
Other climbing-related issues (i.e. fixed anchors) have been discussed, informally, with the APA and DEC. This is not the time, however, to formally address other climbing-related issues. Our first step is to be recognized as a diverse user group that fits the definition of mountaineering.

What you can do

Write a letter that includes the following about you:

  • 1. Name & user group(s) with which you associate (rock, ice, bouldering, etc.)
  • 2. Organization/business (if relevant, i.e. guide, shop/gym owner, instructor, author
  • 3. Address
  • 4. Email Address
  • 5. Support of the expanded definition, as written below:
    Mountaineering includes, but is not limited to, the following forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, slide climbing, bouldering, and ski mountaineering.
  • 6. Justification for how the expanded definition will help the Department of Conservation (DEC)
    For example: Highlighting these specific activities could help managers identify mountaineering resources that are present in the Park
  • 7. Justification for how the expanded definition will help climbers
    For example: A more inclusive definition of mountaineering will help unify climbers into a more visible user group, a group that wishes to cooperate with DEC in managing mountaineering resources (i.e. erosion control at heavily used cliffs, maintaining access trails)
  • 8. Say something positive about Adirondack climbers.

For example: We are a growing user group that is able to support guides and college programs
· We spend money throughout the Park and throughout the year, we attended annual festivals/events
· The Park has loads of mountaineering resources that attract climbers from downstate, out of state, Canada
· We cooperate with DEC in Peregrine monitoring and volunteer rescues
· We are conservation-minded, responsible and low-impact

Please submit written comments to:

Deputy Director, Planning
Kathy Regan
PO Box 99
Ray Brook, NY 12977

Or via email:
PublicComment@apa.ny.gov

Source: Jeremy Haas


New ADK Ice Guide in the Works!

BlueLines

Attention!

Don Mellor and Drew Haas are working on a new guidebook for Adirondack Ice Climbing. This will update the current guide “Blue Lines”, and will be the 2nd edition.
They are looking for photos of Adirondack ice climbing for the new guide book scheduled to be released next year.

** South and Central areas especially! **

In general Don and Drew are looking for:

  • Route Photos
  • Climber Action shots
  • Cliff Overview
  • Old Photos too

All information and photos are welcome, they will cull through them to see what works with the new guide.

Please forward all photos to drew@mountaineer.com

They will also take slides & regular photos. Just send to or drop off @ The Mountaineer. They can scan them and get them back to you.

The Mountaineer

1866 NYS RT 73
Keene Valley NY 12943

We eagerly await this new ice climbing guide. So much has happened since the last edition.

Don & Drew thank you in advance for all the help!

Source: Nick@mountaineer.com, Don Mellor and Drew Hass

~Doug Millen

Here Today, Gone Tomorrow!

One Reckless Youth, an Ice Devil and several Polar children

Times like these don’t come along often, I mean, when was the last “Polar Vortex”? But when they do, you better be ready. The conditions were ripe for the picking last week on Whitehorse & Cathedral Ledges, North Conway NH. Peter Doucette – Mountain Sense Guides – along with IMCS guide Sam Bendroth,  Erik Eisele, and Adam Bidwell had “Mountain Sense” and dropped everything to take full advantage of these rare conditions. With plenty of ground water and a “Polar Vortex” to bring in some great “Streaks”, they hit the jack pot.

Peter had a few days of training earlier at Cathedral Ledge before his Whitehorse rampage. And as Bayard said, “Peter, now fully warmed up and ready for the next event, takes it to the next level. In the next three days he proceeds to climb everything. I mean everything!”  See more on Peter’s warm up from NEice Ambassador Bayard Russell of Cathedral Mountain Guides on his Blog Post  Sending Streaks

Blue is Endangered Species, Black is "Ice Devil" and Red is the "Reckless Youth" finish to "Endangered Species".

Whitehorse Ledge – South Buttress, North Conway NH / Blue is Endangered Species, Black is “Ice Devil” and Red is the “Reckless Youth” finish to “Endangered Species”.

“Taking a page out of the Russell/McCormick play book, during the nearly unrelenting deluge today, Erik and I followed “Endangered Species”, (Webster/Winkler ’82) and branched out on a slight variation to get into the Children’s Crusade finish up ice glazed corners yielding “Reckless Youth” (M8 WI5+) shown in Red.- Peter Doucette 

Its technical crux was pulling into the base of the upper corner on micro hooks to establish a stem
Reckless Youth - Peter Climbing 2 -  Erik

Peter on P1 of Endangered Species – Erik Eisele

” We were soaked to the bone, used umbrellas for the approach and first belay, and reached the ground just as a thunderclap ripped through the valley. Pete led the crux pitches, one and three, both of which were incredible to watch. On the Eradicate Dike he was looking at huge falls into ledges, and in the upper corner he was climbing a six inch vertical smear while clipping bad fixed pins. It was raining so hard water filled my boots. I went through four pairs of gloves. To watch Peter work in such conditions was pretty amazing.” – Erik Eisele

Ice Devil (Right) Reckless Youth in Red (left)

Peter on “Ice Devil”. Reckless Youth to the left (red) – Adam Bidwell

Ice Devil” (WI5+ M6+) shown in blue, followed a smear right of the rock route “Seventh Seal”, up “Scare Tactics,” then angled left into the upper reaches of “Beelzebub” with some variations. Brilliant climbing both days, full conditions today. Who know’s what will form in the next couple weeks if the “Polar Vortex” kicks back in.” – Peter Doucette

The Myth of Sisyphus

Myth - Sam climbing - Peter

Sam Bendroth on The Myth – Peter Doucette

The Myth offered some rare and spectacular climbing.

” The Myth with the absent top-out sadly apparent from below…sometimes you have to see it in person to believe it :-)” – Peter Doucette

Dresden South

Peter topping out on "Dresden-South" - Sam Bendroth

Peter topping out on “Dresden-South” – Sam Bendroth

Winter Asylum

Peter climbing "Winter Asylum -- Sam Bendroth

Peter climbing “Winter Asylum” – Sam Bendroth

The  routes are as follows:

  • Dresden South NEI5 Peter Doucette with Sam Bendroth  1/10/2014  / Cathedral Ledge,  Left margin of the Barber Wall.
  • Winter Asylum NEI 6- R (thats 6 minus) Peter Doucette with Sam Bendroth  1/10/ 2014  / Cathedral Ledge, The Barber Wall
  • Ice Devil M6+ NEI 5+ Peter Doucette with Adam Bidwell 1/9/2014 Ice  Whitehorse Ledge, South Buttress
  • Reckless Youth M8 NEI 5+ with Erik Eisele 1/11/2014  / Whitehorse Ledge, South Buttress ( through the upper corners of Children’s Crusade).

So all I want to know, when is the next “Polar Vortex” due? – Doug Millen

A few more photos

 Area Map

 Source:

Peter Doucette

MountainSenseGuides.com

IFMGA/AMGA Licensed Mountain Guide

Phone:  603  616-7455
Address: 84 Skyline Drive
Intervale, NH. 03845
Photos as noted, click to enlarge

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Peter is guiding Ice Climbing 101 on FRIDAY and Outdoor Research’s Steep Waterfall Ice on SATURDAY at this years Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest  !


New rules to access La Pomme d’Or

La Pomme d"Or

La Pomme d”Or – Fred Maltais

 

La Pomme d’Or

Every winter, skilled climbers take on the  Pomme d’Or, a spectacular and perilous rock face along Rivière Malbaie. For permission to climb this ice wall in the park, you’ll need an access permit. Refer to Reservation Terms and Conditions for all the details.

Climbers must be in excellent physical condition and totally independent, since the ice wall is about 30 km from the closest telephone and off the park’s network of roads and trails. Under good weather conditions, it takes a full day of snowshoeing or off-trail skiing to reach the site.

If you are independent, climbing the Pomme d’Or requires a minimum stay of 3 days in the park.

  • Day 1: 30 km of snowshoeing or off-trail skiing to get to the foot of the cliff;
  • Day 2: climb the ice wall and return to base camp;
  • Day 3: 30 km of snowshoeing or off-trail skiing to return to your car.

We strongly recommend bringing a satellite telephone or a SPOT-type emergency message device. There is no emergency telephone on the site in the winter and the cell phone network does not serve the park’s territory.

http://www.sepaq.com/pq/hgo/index.dot?language_id=1

 

Location

La Pommed D’or is located approximately 2.5 hours east of Quebect City. The nearest decent sized town is Malbaie, Quebec. You enter the Parc de Haute Gorges I believe and drive as far as they will allow, before you begin your ski approach.

Administrative Guidelines and Obtaining a Backcountry Access Permit

It is mandatory to hold an Access Permit to climb the Pomme d’Or. To get one, you must apply in writing by filling out the appropriate form.

Applying for a Pomme d’Or Access Permit for Stays of More Than One Day

Once your itinerary is ready, you understand the associated risks and you consider yourself ready to assume them, you must fill out the Backcountry Access Permit Application form. Each member of the group must individually fill out the form. However, all applications for the same expedition must be sent in one mailing to the administrative office of the Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie.

Each application is analysed to make sure that the expedition respects instructions related to the mission of the national parks and that it will take place in the targeted sector. If your application is in order and the reception capacity has not been reached, a confirmation will be sent.

Allow for a 7-days waiting period from the time we receive your Pomme d’Or Access Permit Application. The cost is $10 /pers./night (maximum 8 nights), in addition to the park entry fee. These fees must be paid in full by credit card or cheque prior to your stay.

Modifications

If you wish to modify the stay dates or replace members of your team, you must do so at least 72 hours prior to arrival by directly contacting the administrative office of the park concerned.

Cancellation

If you want to cancel your stay, you must do so at least 72 hours prior to arrival by directly contacting the administrative office of the park concerned. No refunds will be granted for a cancellation made less than 72 hours prior to arrival.

Contact Information for the Administrative Office

Your Safety, Your Responsibility

Before submitting an application for authorization to climb the Pomme d’Or, you must be aware that help is far away and that your safety is your responsibility. Adequate preparation is required. First ask yourself if you have the skills, abilities and fitness level to undertake this kind of expedition. Climbing the Pomme d’Or involves certain risks, and it’s important to know what they are so you can prepare for them and be ready to react appropriately.

We invite you to consult our tip sheets about activities and stays offered by Société des établissements de plein air du Québec (Sépaq). The Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade can help you plan your stay and your activities safely. Don’t hesitate to contact them.

No patrols are made at this time of year in this part of the territory. Emergency services are far away and access to the Pomme d’Or is particularly difficult. For incidents requiring immediate care or evacuation, wait time can be very long (sometimes several days). The isolation of this sector means that there is no cell phone service. A first aid kit and knowledge of how to apply first aid in remote areas are essential in emergency situations.

Costs related to search and rescue operations are solely the responsibility of the recipient. We strongly recommend checking whether or not your insurance company covers these costs. Otherwise, some private companies, such as Airmédic, offer the possibility of benefiting from such services by becoming a member of their organization.

No verifications will be made as to your return. It is your responsibility to give someone you trust a copy of your itinerary, making sure to indicate the date and times of your return and instructing the person to contact emergency services (911) in the event of your absence.

In Harmony with Nature

Minimizing our impact on the natural environment is a duty. The behavior you adopt during your stay at the park must constantly be guided by the desire to preserve the integrity of nature and our surroundings so that other climbers can fully enjoy the same privilege.

Parcs Québec considers the application of Leave no trace principles as the reference for behaviours in the national parks.

Number of People in the Group

For safety reasons, it is recommended to go in groups of a minimum of 3 people. To minimize disturbance and impacts on the natural environment.

Campfires

It is prohibited to make fires in the back country. Bring a camp stove for cooking.

- Source: PARCS QUÉBEC / PARC NATIONAL DES HAUTES-GORGES-DE-LA-RIVIÈRE-MALBAIE


Map


How NEice.com ranks

NEice continues to be one of the top players for climbing web sites.

* Click to enlarge

Below are the rankings of some popular climbing web sites. Now remember smaller is better. I left out the big guns, climbing, Rock and Ice, exct. as they are in a different league. But this will give you a feel of where we stand among our peers.

Web Site World Wide Rank
Mountain Project.com 107135
Super Topo.com 181398
Alpinist.com 377495
American Alpine Club.com 958094
NEice.com 1466486
Alpine Club of Canada.ca 1614223
Will Gadd.com 1737577
Gripped.com 1841200
Climberism.com 1922600
Metro Rock.com 1924640
Ouray Ice Park.com 2150202
Gunks.com 2958114
Gravsports Ice.com 3184387
Gravsports.com 4978549
New England Bouldering.com 5029044
NEclimbs.com 6136644
Escalade Quebec.com 6506015

* Figures are from Alexa.com 1/4/2013


Some other stats that stand out

One month (Dec. 4, 2012 – Jan. 4,  2013)


Unique Visitors: 27,765

Page Views: 484,117

Online Photos of Ice Climbing: over 10,000

Value of items sold  in the Classified: $55,206

Visits to the site this year increased by 100.12% 

The Forum has over 65,000 Posts made by 4,757 Members

Type ice climbing in Google and we always come up on the first page, today we were  #4

 

~ Doug Millen

 

 

 

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