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Archive for the ‘Conditions’ Category

Where and When?

 A Guide to Early Season Ice

Tucks 10-19-2013

Tuckermans Ravine, Mt Washington NHs  10-19-2013

Every year it is a little different. When and where we will find the first Ice to Cimb? It is time to start looking.  Time  to start looking at the weather, to sharpen the gear and get the pack ready. And of course, stay tuned to NEice. If there is ice, we will find it!

Below is what we have seen over the last few years for early season ice with dates, and related stories.

Cover photo:   Alfonzo

2012

October 13  – MT Katahdin  ME.  Alfonzo and I hit the pot of gold…the best earliest season ice we have ever climbed in the Northeast. Also see The Season of the Witch.

November 5 – Defiance in Huntington Ravine.  We were determined, by hook and crook we were climbing up a gully.

November 6 – The Black Dike Goes Down!! The unofficial start to to the Ice Climbing season.

November 12 – “P.F. Flyer” King Ravine. We found some excellent early season ice.

December 8 – Take a ride UP “Standard Rt”. WooKong takes to the air.

Katie - Huntington Ravine

Katie Ives enjoying some great early season ice climbing on Damnation Gully, Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH. 10/29/2011

2011

October 6 – We beat the sun for the “First Ice” Planing is everything.

October 25 – Fall Meets Winter The transition to winter is so beautiful

October 29 – Game ON! Here we go!

November 4 – “Trick or Treat?” What is going on?

November 6 – Pinnacle Gully, IN!  Arethusa Falls , Not IN!

November 13 – Is this Ice Climbing? King Ravine NH – It’s all relative.

November 30 – False Start. – 5 yard penalty – repeat first down.

December 19 –  No “Small Victory” Fafnir, Cannon Cliff NH

2010

October 10 – Let the “Games” begin! The Start!

November 3 – Right on Schedule! – The Black Dike comes in as predicted.

November 24 – The Ice is Back!  – A warm spell took out what little ice we had.

December 7 – Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine – Full on Winter!

2009

October 15 – “Pinnacle Gully”  The cold came in early, it looked like a great start, then the warm up!

November 8 – If you want to climb ice, you can find it! Turf climbing an’t so bad!

November 24 – Where is the ice? What a difference a year makes

December 9 – “The Black Dike”. A very late start for “The Dike”.

December 18 – “Hassig’s Direct”. A variation of The Black Dike on Cannon Cliff.

Some Early Season Photos

Other Information

Go to NEice Weather. We have all the info you need to plan your early season trip

Our Classified Section has great deals on gear. Sell or buy to get ready for the upcoming season.

Looking for a climbing partner? Our Partners Section is the perfect place to start.

I hope your looking forward to the upcoming Ice Season as much as I am. What will Mother Nature give us this year?

-Doug Millen

North Gully, Huntington Ravine 2.22.13

     

 

The calm before the storm and another beautiful day in the alpine zone. One week earlier Doug and I enjoyed the “calm” with entirely different conditions in Madison Gulf.  This time we experienced mid March weather on February 22.

Enjoy and get ready for the long days of March.

Alan Cattabriga

Click images to enlarge.

Photos from our day

Photos by Doug Millen & Alan Cattabriga

 

Ice!

From the NEIce Gallery, a Members Sample.

The view from Mt. Colden, ADK

The ice is here and with this snow, it will only get better!  Enjoy some shots provided by NEice members from  New York, Vermont & New Hampshire spanning the last two weeks. Thank you to everyone for posting info and/or images! Doug and all of us that attempt to help out here are very appreciative.
Get psyched! ~ AC

Photographs by;  Broken Spectre, Amy, WooKong, Coup, The Rockytop, tfarr3,  AOC, Wewidlund, adkmorgan,  Jacon & afendres.

Clink on images to enlarge.

 

Standard Rt. Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch, NH 12/8/12

Things are starting to happen down on the lower elevations. The ice just wants to grow. We saw ice on most climbs today in Crawford Notch. Nothing safe or climbable but it  is just waiting to form. As soon as cold weather moves in we are all set.

Below is some footage that our newest NEice team member, WooKong, shot today of Standard Rt.

P.F. Flyer and More!

The Head Wall – King Ravine

It was a great weekend for ice climbing up on the “Rock Pile”. NEice team members found plenty of early season ice.

Team member Courtney Ley and partner Joel Dashnaw reported thick ice on Pinnacle Gully. Courtney said “it was taking 16cm screws” and the water flow was not bad at all. Look for her photos here.

Lori Crowningshield finda "FAT" ice in Damnation Gully

Lori Crowningshield finds “FAT” ice in Damnation Gully

Team Member Emilie Drinkwater and partner Lori Crowningshield climbed “Damnation” and found good ice also. “It was a little scrappy at the top in the sun”, but very enjoyable and a beautiful day to be in the ravine. On Sunday, Emilie and Jesse did “Shoestring Gully” in Crawford Notch and found it thin but climbable and a little slushy at the top.

Ted Hammond nearing the top of the Mullet slab

Alfonzo and Ted Hammond climbed the Mullet slabs on Mt. Lincoln in Franconia Notch and had a great day out. Look for some of his photos in the photo post section soon.

P.F. Flyer

Google Map

Fred Bieber and I headed in to King Ravine to see what we could find. We found plenty of ice and set our eyes on ” P.F. Flyer”. I have always wanted to climb it but the conditions have never been right. Today they were. That side of the ravine never gets sun this time of year so conditions and timing were ripe. It was good to do it before the snow gets too deep. As it was, we were thigh deep in snow at times.

Let’s hope this warm up does not do much damage.

Below are some photos of the climb. Enjoy! (click to enlarge)

Doug Millen

Fred coming up on the lower section

 

The crux of P.F. Flyer

 

Great ice higher up on the climb

Fred topping out on the last bit of ice climbing

 

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