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Archive for the ‘Gear Reviews’ Category

DMM Testing: SLINGS AT ANCHORS

A great video and report on the forces at work on slings in four different belay set-ups.

I have always tied in with both ropes and used clove hitches…seems like this is the best way to tie in.

New Petzl Ice Climbing Products

New – Fall 2013 Ice Climbing Tools

Photo Casque @Lafouche
 

casque 



LASER SPEED LIGHT: Lightweight ice screw with integrated handle

Ultra-light screw with aluminum tube is ideal for mountaineering. Starting is facilitated by the optimized shape of the steel drill. The integrated flexible crank gives an optimized lever, making it easier and faster to screw in.

 

casque 

LASER SPEED: Ice screw with integrated crank

The LASER SPEED ice screw starts easily due to the optimized drill shape. Strength and durability are improved due to the steel tube and specific threading. The integrated flexible crank gives an optimized lever, making it easier and faster to screw in.

 

casque 

LASER: Ice screw

Starting the LASER ice screw is facilitated by the optimized drill shape. Strength and durability are improved due to the steel tube and specific threading. Screwing is facilitated by the excellent ergonomics of the aluminum hanger.

 

casque 

D-LYNX: Screw-in mono-point crampons for ice climbing, mixed climbing and dry tooling

Screwing the mono-point D-LYNX crampons directly onto shoes reduces weight considerably and improves rigidity. The shape and angle of the points are designed for expert use in dry tooling, mixed or ice climbing. The D-LYNX offers more striking precision thanks to the front/back positioning adjustment.

 

casque 

LIM’ICE: Sharpener for ice screws

The simplified handling of the LIM’ICE screw sharpener makes drill sharpening faster and easier. The two sharpening guides optimize precision sharpening on both sides of the drill teeth.

 

The future is NAO!

NAO is the first Petzl headlamp with REACTIVE LIGHTING technology.


NAO headlamp

The rechargeable NAO headlamp adapts its two high power LEDs instantly and automatically to the lighting needs for greater comfort, fewer manual interventions and longer battery life.

Outside Magazine awarded the NAO “Outside Gear of the Show” at ORWM12. A great honor and an acknowledgement of the ground breaking technology that is the NAO.

Petzl’s NAO web site is now live, go to www.petzl.com/NAO. Here you’ll be able to view the video as well as see more information about the headlamp and REACTIVE LIGHTING technology.

Below are some early media impressions on Petzl’s NAO, it will launch in July 2012 at $175 MSRP.

“Touted to have a first of its kind self-adjusting beam, the to-be-released NAO headlamp from Petzl could be a game changer in the world of head-mounted illumination products.”
From GearJunkie: http://gearjunkie.com/intelligent-illumination-headlamp-self-adjusts-its-beam

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“Petzl calls the technology “reactive lighting.” We call it the most high-tech headlamp we’ve ever seen.”
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“Petzl has come out with a headlamp which will very likely alter the course of headlamp technology.”
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“Once in a while, a headlamp comes around that changes the game for others. Enter Petzl‘s Nao auto-adjusting headlamp, which dims or brightens according to the level of ambient light.”
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Other places to go and see the NAO:
- Webpage: http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/headlamps/nao
- YouTube: http://youtu.be/FZb3k_x067w
- Facebook tab (you’ll need a FB account to view this): https://www.facebook.com/Petzl?sk=app_281881348531418

Source: Dave Karl, Petzl.com

New Crampon from Petzl

The “Lynx

Petzls latest High End Crampon

Available SEPTEMBER 2011
$245.00 MSRP

The new Lynx crampon from Petzl offers a forged and easily replaceable monopoint or dual point. The Lynx will replace the M10. A much lighter replacement and should make a lot of people happy.

Petzl-Lynx-Crampon

Modular crampon for ice and mixed climbing, with new LEVERLOCK universal bindings
From snow couloirs to dry tooling, the LYNX is a versatile crampon. Modular front points allow for many options: dual or mono-point, long or short, and/or asymmetrical. They come with two types of interchangeable front bindings to adapt to boots with or without toe welts.

Selling points:
• Versatile crampons for ice and mixed climbing

• Configuration and length of front points can be modified with one screw:
dual points in short, long or asymmetrical position
offset mono-point in short or long position

• Crampons adaptable to boots with or without toe welts:
interchangeable front bindings: stainless steel toe bail wires for shoes with toe welts, or flexible “Flexlock” style toe bindings for boots without toe welts
both types of toe bindings can be adjusted to accommodate shoe width and provide sufficient point length

• LEVERLOCK heel bail is height-adjustable, designed for boots with heel welt

• Integrated front and rear ANTISNOW plates

• FAKIR carrying pouch included

• Marked bars facilitate crampon adjustment

• Comes with:
FAKIR carrying bag (V01)
front and rear ANTISNOW (T24960)
flexible front binding
stainless steel wire heel bail

 

Product specifications:
Number of points: 14
Boot sizes: 35 to 45 with M linking bar (included), optional L linking bar fits boots sizes 40 to 50 (T20850)
Weight: 2 x 540 g = 1080 g (configuration with two points and ANTISNOW)
2 x 455 g = 910 g (configuration with one point, no ANTISNOW)
Certification(s): CE, UIAA

More on the “Lynx” at  coldthistle.blogspot.com & the NEice Forum
Source: Dave Karl, NEice Forum – Dane

Lynx

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