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The Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2014

Coming This Weekend!

The Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest

North Conway, NH

Jan. 31st-Feb. 2nd, 2014!

A weekend filled with clinics, demos, guest guides, apres climbing party, evening presentations, live music and MORE!

This is the biggest Ice Festival in the Northeast! No where else can you find so many top guides in one place. Truly the cream of the crop. So come up, have some fun and learn from the best. NEice will be at IME on Friday and Saturday for the apres climbing party with hot soup and our latest Helicopter. We look forward to seeing you there.

It’s Not too Late to Sign Up for Clinics!

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* Click to Enlarge

The weather forecast could not be better, some real cold to bring in the ice and mild weather to climb in with a little snow.

Weather Ice Fest

 

Clinics include: Ice Climbing 101, Ice Climbing For Rock Climbers, Thin Ice, Mixed Climbing with Tim Emmett, Snow & Alpine Skills & MORE!
And don’t forget about the killer evening presentations that are hosted just 4 miles from IME at Theater In The Wood!

Friday evening will be opened up by Jeff Longcor and the featured presenter is legendary, Barry Blanchard.

Saturday evening has Majka Burhardt opening up the evening and the featured presentation is by the infectiously energetic Tim Emmett!
Don’t miss it, spread the word, and we hope to see you there!

More information can be found here www.mwv-icefest.com

and the latest news here on NEice. MWV-ICE-FEST-North-Conway-New-Hampshire

Paradox Sports Returns to North Conway

The Third Annual Adaptive Ice Climbing Event

Its called Paradox Ice – we’re taking 20 athletes with physical disabilities ice climbing at Cathedral Ledge.

Dates: Friday, Feb 7 to Sunday Feb 9, 2014

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Photo by Claudia Lopez

Boulder, CO – Paradox Sports is pleased to announce that the third annual Paradox Ice event in North Conway, New Hampshire February 7-9, 2014. Throughout the weekend, 20 adaptive athletes will learn about the specialized equipment and adaptive techniques needed to climb vertical walls of ice.

Participants range from wounded warriors with PTSD to amputees, paraplegics and  visually impaired athletes. Registration includes meals, lodging, equipment rental and professional guide services.

Co-founder and below-the-knee amputee, Malcolm Daly, launched Paradox Ice in 2008: “Ice is the great equalizer. None of us can climb it without adaptive equipment. We just go one step further.”

Paradox Ice is open to people with physical disabilities, their families or caretakers and military veterans. This is event is made possible by the guides at Ascent Climbing and Alpine Inspirations.

For more information or to register for the upcoming climbs, please visit http://paradoxsports.org/programs/paradox-ice.

Scholarships and financial assistance are available.

Program Coordinator and guide Nate McKenzie of Ascent Climbing: “Weʼ re
excited to bring Paradox Sports adaptive climbing programs to the north east. Its
the only event of its kind in the region and the community really steps up to
support Paradox and our athletes.”

We still have a few spots left and we’re looking for more participants. We can provide full scholarships and tuition assistance for folks that need it.

If folks want to help support our trip by making a small donation to Paradox Sports, they should visit our CrowdRise fundraiser at http://www.crowdrise.com/ParadoxIce

Mark Synnott is giving a free slideshow at the Flatbread / Eastern Slope Inn conference room at 7:30pm on Saturday, February 8. Open to the public.

More Here..

Paradox Sports is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization that improves peopleʼ s lives by creating adaptive sport communities built to inspire.

Photos by Claudia Lopez

Mountainfest – 2014

Coming This Weekend !

January 18-20, 2014

Mtnfest-Poster2-2014

Mountainfest is an annual celebration of ice climbing and mountaineering, featuring guest athletes who entertain us with tales of climbing adventures, instructional clinics taught by visiting climbers and local guides, demo gear, and a chance to gather with the climbing community for an exciting winter weekend.

Schedule of Events

Don’t miss this great event! 

We have had some rain and warm weather but conditions are improving.

” I’m predicting things will recover pretty well by the weekend. We’ve had temps below freezing every night and there’s going to be a cool-off all week. You’re right about CP, NFOP and Cascade Pass being full. Last year, I was surprised to see big crowds at Loch Ness, but it turns out people were steered there by the guides who were running clinics in the Canyon and Pass. My recommendation for getting away from the crowds is to pick something that takes more than twenty minutes to approach and/or needs a bit of a drive (Poko or Hoffman).

Get out there and get after it. Just make sure to make it back for the slideshows. They’re going to be great this year.”  -  it’llgo  /  NEice.com conditions page posted  on Jan. 14, 2014

Still a few openings left.  Give a call if you are interested in signing up for either course!

  • Steep Ice for the Weak and Chickenhearted with Don Mellor – SUNDAY.
  • Intermediate to Advanced Steep/Thin/Hard Ice with Ian Osteyee – SUNDAY.

 

Come by for some hot soup and check out my latest helicopters. We will be at Chapel Pond on Saturday.

Hope to see you there – Doug Millen

 

 

 

 

Ouray 2014 – Elite Mixed Climbing Competition

The annual Elite Mixed Climbing Competition was held Saturday, January 11 at the Ouray Ice Festival in front of a record crowd of enthusiastic spectators.
Only three competitors completed the challenging route to the top!

Results of the 2014 Ouray Ice Festival Elite Mixed Climbing Comp:

Top 5 Men:
1 Jeff Mercier
2 Mauro Dorigatti
3 Will Mayo
4 Sam Elias
5 Kyle Dempster

Top 5 Women:
1 Stephanie Maureau
2 Jen Olson
3 Dawn Glanc
4 Emily Harrington
5 Kendra Stritch

Video created by Barry Stevenson, OutsideAdventiureMedia.com.
Music, “Running”, composed and performed by Moby, courtesy MobyGratus.com.

Here Today, Gone Tomorrow!

One Reckless Youth, an Ice Devil and several Polar children

Times like these don’t come along often, I mean, when was the last “Polar Vortex”? But when they do, you better be ready. The conditions were ripe for the picking last week on Whitehorse & Cathedral Ledges, North Conway NH. Peter Doucette – Mountain Sense Guides – along with IMCS guide Sam Bendroth,  Erik Eisele, and Adam Bidwell had “Mountain Sense” and dropped everything to take full advantage of these rare conditions. With plenty of ground water and a “Polar Vortex” to bring in some great “Streaks”, they hit the jack pot.

Peter had a few days of training earlier at Cathedral Ledge before his Whitehorse rampage. And as Bayard said, “Peter, now fully warmed up and ready for the next event, takes it to the next level. In the next three days he proceeds to climb everything. I mean everything!”  See more on Peter’s warm up from NEice Ambassador Bayard Russell of Cathedral Mountain Guides on his Blog Post  Sending Streaks

Blue is Endangered Species, Black is "Ice Devil" and Red is the "Reckless Youth" finish to "Endangered Species".

Whitehorse Ledge – South Buttress, North Conway NH / Blue is Endangered Species, Black is “Ice Devil” and Red is the “Reckless Youth” finish to “Endangered Species”.

“Taking a page out of the Russell/McCormick play book, during the nearly unrelenting deluge today, Erik and I followed “Endangered Species”, (Webster/Winkler ’82) and branched out on a slight variation to get into the Children’s Crusade finish up ice glazed corners yielding “Reckless Youth” (M8 WI5+) shown in Red.- Peter Doucette 

Its technical crux was pulling into the base of the upper corner on micro hooks to establish a stem
Reckless Youth - Peter Climbing 2 -  Erik

Peter on P1 of Endangered Species – Erik Eisele

” We were soaked to the bone, used umbrellas for the approach and first belay, and reached the ground just as a thunderclap ripped through the valley. Pete led the crux pitches, one and three, both of which were incredible to watch. On the Eradicate Dike he was looking at huge falls into ledges, and in the upper corner he was climbing a six inch vertical smear while clipping bad fixed pins. It was raining so hard water filled my boots. I went through four pairs of gloves. To watch Peter work in such conditions was pretty amazing.” – Erik Eisele

Ice Devil (Right) Reckless Youth in Red (left)

Peter on “Ice Devil”. Reckless Youth to the left (red) – Adam Bidwell

Ice Devil” (WI5+ M6+) shown in blue, followed a smear right of the rock route “Seventh Seal”, up “Scare Tactics,” then angled left into the upper reaches of “Beelzebub” with some variations. Brilliant climbing both days, full conditions today. Who know’s what will form in the next couple weeks if the “Polar Vortex” kicks back in.” – Peter Doucette

The Myth of Sisyphus

Myth - Sam climbing - Peter

Sam Bendroth on The Myth – Peter Doucette

The Myth offered some rare and spectacular climbing.

” The Myth with the absent top-out sadly apparent from below…sometimes you have to see it in person to believe it :-)” – Peter Doucette

Dresden South

Peter topping out on "Dresden-South" - Sam Bendroth

Peter topping out on “Dresden-South” – Sam Bendroth

Winter Asylum

Peter climbing "Winter Asylum -- Sam Bendroth

Peter climbing “Winter Asylum” – Sam Bendroth

The  routes are as follows:

  • Dresden South NEI5 Peter Doucette with Sam Bendroth  1/10/2014  / Cathedral Ledge,  Left margin of the Barber Wall.
  • Winter Asylum NEI 6- R (thats 6 minus) Peter Doucette with Sam Bendroth  1/10/ 2014  / Cathedral Ledge, The Barber Wall
  • Ice Devil M6+ NEI 5+ Peter Doucette with Adam Bidwell 1/9/2014 Ice  Whitehorse Ledge, South Buttress
  • Reckless Youth M8 NEI 5+ with Erik Eisele 1/11/2014  / Whitehorse Ledge, South Buttress ( through the upper corners of Children’s Crusade).

So all I want to know, when is the next “Polar Vortex” due? – Doug Millen

A few more photos

 Area Map

 Source:

Peter Doucette

MountainSenseGuides.com

IFMGA/AMGA Licensed Mountain Guide

Phone:  603  616-7455
Address: 84 Skyline Drive
Intervale, NH. 03845
Photos as noted, click to enlarge

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Peter is guiding Ice Climbing 101 on FRIDAY and Outdoor Research’s Steep Waterfall Ice on SATURDAY at this years Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest  !


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