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Omega!

Franconia Notch NH

What happens when you get  a ton of rain over a snowpack, and than a cold front moves through…Omega in April…that’s what!  Here again it proves that you have to anticipate and be ready for unique ice climbing conditions. Peter Doucette has been following the conditions all winter and taking advantage of the unique conditions as they happen. Peter and Adam were ready and got a 3:45 am start for this adventure. Perfect!  What great  ice climbing. Just look at the photos…great bonded ice, and the lighting could not be any better. Fantastic late season ice climbing. Remember…It’s not “OVA” till it’s “OVA”.

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Source:

Peter Doucette

MountainSenseGuides.com

And

Adam Bidwell

 Photos by Adam Bidwell and Peter Doucette

Also see  Here Today, Gone Tomorrow!


CATSKILL ICE FESTIVAL 2014

AlpineEndeavors

 

Join the 16th Annual Catskill Ice Festival

February 7, 8, 9, 10, 2014

This year again there will be multiple clinics on all the skills and techniques you need to get out on ice – from basic skills, to dry-tooling, to glacier travel techniques.
Slide shows on Friday & Saturday evening.  Slide shows will be held at Rock and Snow at 8pm.

The demo gear will be located at Rock and Snow – so you can try out the latest Harnesses, Ice Tools, Crampons, and clothing from the best companies. You know them – Black Diamond, Petzl, La Sportiva, Outdoor Research & Rab.

Slideshows

Friday Night: Catskills Aerial

Join local guide and guidebook author, Marty Molitoris as he shows you an aerial view of the areas we all know and love, and some new ones as well…
Held at Rock & Snow, 8pm

Saturday Night: Kevin Mahoney

Northeast climbing in the winter, and first ascents in Alaska and Nepal.
Held at Rock and Snow, 8pm

NEice.com will be there with hot soup and Doug’s Helicopters will be taking aerial video of the climbing. Hope to see you there.

More here…

 

 Feature Photo: Brinton Price climbing in The Black Chasm - RAS

Smuggs Ice Bash 2014 – Recap

Smugglers Notch Ice Bash kicked off with an awesome evening at Petra Cliffs!  There was an great line up of competitors ready to crush the route set by Matt McCormick and Peter Kamitses. There’s no where else in the Northeast you can go to see this kind of show!

The winners of the 2014 Smuggs Ice Bash Indoor Comp. at Petra Clif

The winners of the 2014 Smuggs Ice Bash Dry Tool Competition at Petra Cliffs

The Dry Tool Competition Winners

Womens

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1st – Alexa Siegel

2nd – Andrea Charest

3rd – Lindsay Fixmer

Mens

Whit

1st – Whit Magro

2nd – Will Mayo

3rd – Roy Quanstrom

The-Competors

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Will-Mayo

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Photos: 1.The competitors  2.Alexa Siegel 3.Will Mayo 4.Andrea Charest


Video Recap of the Competition


 

There for the festivities was the American Alpine ClubFurnace IndustriesUS SherpaOutdoor Gear Exchange and Health Warrior. Before and after the comp, Dry Ice Tools and tools from Black Diamond and Cassin were available for demos on the climbing wall.  To top it off, raffle prizes were given away, sponsored by Crag-VT!

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Hot beverages and hot soup!
Courtesy of NEice and Outdoor Gear Exchange

NEice was proud to sponsor a women’s beginner clinic on Saturday led by Andrea Charest.  The clinic was free to all participants and judging by this photo, it looks like everyone had a blast!  And of course, hot soup was waiting for everyone who came down from the notch after a day of climbing.  There were great clinics offered all weekend from Steep Ice and Mix climbing to Alpine Climbing to Double Rope Techniques by guides including Tim Farr, Steve Charest, Mike Bauman, Matt Bressler, Mark Puleio and Michael Wejchert.  Guest guides this year were Whit Magro and Lindsay Fixmer!  Demo gear from all the major manufacturers were there and Smuggler’s Notch Inn was packed with people checking out the gear.  By the end of the morning on Saturday, -all- the ice tools on -every- table were headed out for the day.

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Michael Wejchert gives some mix climbing tips during Sunday’s clinic.

Once the demo gear was out, the reps and guides were psyched to get out and climb.  Kevin Mahoney and Michael Wejchert spent their Saturday on Dominatrix (WI4+/5 M6), put up by local hardmen Alden Pellett and Dave Furman in 1998.  It was one of the hardest mix routes during the late 90′s and sent with straight shafted tools at the time.  Hats off.  Lindsay got her first taste of Vermont ice with Steve Charest as her tour guide while Matt McCormick and I decided to head to the Blue Room. When we reached the top of the notch, we were greeted by strong wind gusts and snow.  It was definitely a full-on day!  It was great to see everyone out, climbing or snowshoeing and skiing the road and embracing the Vermont winter.

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Kevin Mahoney on the Dominatrix.
Photo by Michael Wejchert

Saturday night, Lindsay Fixmer showcased a little of her singer/songwriter talent and entertained the crowd with a song about women in climbing and the guiding world accompanied by photographs.  It’s not often the guest presenter brings a guitar!  That was followed up by Whit Magro.  He presented a slide show about climbing at home, traveling to bigger places, then heading back home to climb after those experiences.. and then doing it all over again.  More great raffle prizes were handed out and Smuggs Bash teeshirts thrown into the crowd.  We all love free swag!

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Lindsay Fixmer and her guitar Saturday night

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Climbing clinic at the Mystery Wall.

On Sunday, the temperatures plummeted, but mere -7 degrees wouldn’t stop this festival.  I headed up the notch with Lindsay for a women’s clinic along with Jess Jablonski.  Despite the cold temperatures, these women spent the day laughing, climbing and learning.  It was a great group of gals and I feel lucky to have had the opportunity to teach and climb with them. This year was big!  And it will only get better and better with Andrea and Stephen Charest running the show!  With that said, NEice extends the biggest of thanks to Andrea and Steve for all they do, not just for the Vermont climbers but the entire northeast climbing community and making the Annual Smugglers Notch Ice Bash a huge success.  We love being apart of it!

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Photo by Michael Wejchert

More photos of the event on the Smuggs Ice Bash facebook page.  LIKE them to make sure you are ready for next year!

- Courtney Ley / NEice.com

Featured story cover photo by Sam Simon Imaging. Competition photos by Doug Millen. Other photos by Courtney Ley and as noted.

 

The Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2014

Coming This Weekend!

The Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest

North Conway, NH

Jan. 31st-Feb. 2nd, 2014!

A weekend filled with clinics, demos, guest guides, apres climbing party, evening presentations, live music and MORE!

This is the biggest Ice Festival in the Northeast! No where else can you find so many top guides in one place. Truly the cream of the crop. So come up, have some fun and learn from the best. NEice will be at IME on Friday and Saturday for the apres climbing party with hot soup and our latest Helicopter. We look forward to seeing you there.

It’s Not too Late to Sign Up for Clinics!

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* Click to Enlarge

The weather forecast could not be better, some real cold to bring in the ice and mild weather to climb in with a little snow.

Weather Ice Fest

 

Clinics include: Ice Climbing 101, Ice Climbing For Rock Climbers, Thin Ice, Mixed Climbing with Tim Emmett, Snow & Alpine Skills & MORE!
And don’t forget about the killer evening presentations that are hosted just 4 miles from IME at Theater In The Wood!

Friday evening will be opened up by Jeff Longcor and the featured presenter is legendary, Barry Blanchard.

Saturday evening has Majka Burhardt opening up the evening and the featured presentation is by the infectiously energetic Tim Emmett!
Don’t miss it, spread the word, and we hope to see you there!

More information can be found here www.mwv-icefest.com

and the latest news here on NEice. MWV-ICE-FEST-North-Conway-New-Hampshire

Paradox Sports Returns to North Conway

The Third Annual Adaptive Ice Climbing Event

Its called Paradox Ice – we’re taking 20 athletes with physical disabilities ice climbing at Cathedral Ledge.

Dates: Friday, Feb 7 to Sunday Feb 9, 2014

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Photo by Claudia Lopez

Boulder, CO – Paradox Sports is pleased to announce that the third annual Paradox Ice event in North Conway, New Hampshire February 7-9, 2014. Throughout the weekend, 20 adaptive athletes will learn about the specialized equipment and adaptive techniques needed to climb vertical walls of ice.

Participants range from wounded warriors with PTSD to amputees, paraplegics and  visually impaired athletes. Registration includes meals, lodging, equipment rental and professional guide services.

Co-founder and below-the-knee amputee, Malcolm Daly, launched Paradox Ice in 2008: “Ice is the great equalizer. None of us can climb it without adaptive equipment. We just go one step further.”

Paradox Ice is open to people with physical disabilities, their families or caretakers and military veterans. This is event is made possible by the guides at Ascent Climbing and Alpine Inspirations.

For more information or to register for the upcoming climbs, please visit http://paradoxsports.org/programs/paradox-ice.

Scholarships and financial assistance are available.

Program Coordinator and guide Nate McKenzie of Ascent Climbing: “Weʼ re
excited to bring Paradox Sports adaptive climbing programs to the north east. Its
the only event of its kind in the region and the community really steps up to
support Paradox and our athletes.”

We still have a few spots left and we’re looking for more participants. We can provide full scholarships and tuition assistance for folks that need it.

If folks want to help support our trip by making a small donation to Paradox Sports, they should visit our CrowdRise fundraiser at http://www.crowdrise.com/ParadoxIce

Mark Synnott is giving a free slideshow at the Flatbread / Eastern Slope Inn conference room at 7:30pm on Saturday, February 8. Open to the public.

More Here..

Paradox Sports is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization that improves peopleʼ s lives by creating adaptive sport communities built to inspire.

Photos by Claudia Lopez

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